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Old 02-24-2017, 06:23 PM
TeamFAS TeamFAS is offline
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Warrensburg, MO
Posts: 45
Default My new-to-me RV3... and questions.

Hi all! Finally a part of the Van's Air Force! I'm finally flying my RV3 and it's time to start making small improvements.
She has a bunch of small issues. One of them though is that she is slow, only about 155mph at 2500rpm at 6k'. I should have a cruise prop coming soon vs the climb prop that is on it now (150hp). I was hoping to get an eye from y'all about these extension exhaust that the previous owner put on. Sure they help at keeping the underside clean, but at what speed? Any thoughts on if removing them would help much?

Also, there is a little bit of cracking in the fiberglass at the back of the canopy, any thoughts on the best way to stop the issue and then fix it? Maybe just pump it full of super glue?

Last edited by TeamFAS : 02-24-2017 at 06:36 PM.
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Old 02-24-2017, 09:23 PM
David Paule David Paule is offline
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 3,559

With just a quick look tonight, and not being an expert, I did notice the lack of intersection fairings on the top and bottom of the landing gear leg fairings. Also, it doesn't look as though those wheel pants are the "pressure recovery types. Those things, especially combined, will cost you speed.

The non-standard engine air inlet itself might not be an issue. But if the air box inside is more early Cessna-ish than current RV, that'll steal some possible power. The manifold pressure drop on the current RV set-up is supposed to be relatively low, so that you can make good power.

The exhaust extensions certainly do stick down a lot but they end up pointing aft nicely, so someone else will have to comment. The ones I bought for mine, which are still in the box, are much shorter but have down-turned tips. They come from They are four single pipes.

That ugly cowling bump needs some fairing work, too.

No way I'd stick super glue into that canopy fairing. I'd sand away as much as necessary to make a tapered edge at the damage, and then make a tapered patch over those spots using a decent epoxy and fabric. Look up DanH's postings for information on how to do that. It's not hard but you do need to follow the directions. Also, what's that post-like thing in the middle?

If you look carefully at it, the canopy fairing appears not to be symmetrical. That might not matter all that much, but it also appears as if it might be a bit abrupt. On the aft end of the canopy, a gentle slope is better than an abrupt one.

I hope these thoughts are helpful. I'd sure like to see more photos of your RV-3.

RV-3B, now building the fuselage
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Old 02-26-2017, 09:16 AM
TeamFAS TeamFAS is offline
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Warrensburg, MO
Posts: 45

Thanks for the tips, David. Hoping to pull the bottom cowling of next weekend for an oil change and get a better idea of the air box situation.
the cowling bump / panel is from the previous owner who was having issues with the exhaust pipe too close to the cowling and the heat discoloring the paint... Another issue that will be addressed.
The post is a little finger hook to slide the canopy backwards. I'll read up on DanH's stuff, thanks for the lead!
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Old 02-26-2017, 08:39 PM
TeamFAS TeamFAS is offline
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Warrensburg, MO
Posts: 45
Default Another question

I was "inspecting" my plane today, aka poking around at things, and found the rear rod end bolt connection joint a little loose. I could just barely move each elevator separately. Took the bolt out, wiped the grime off of the washers and parts, and reassembled. The rod end bearing seemed OK, the ball didn't have any excessive play, it wasn't loose or binding, seemed to move as it should. I reassembled, tightened the castle nut to what felt right, reassembled, and nothing was loose, elevator moved as it should!
So questions: Is this joint supposed to be greased? If so, with what? Is this a common wear area? The washers that were against the bearing had signs of wear. If I wanted to order new bolt washers, castle nut, is there a parts listing that would say what they are? I have the preview plans but it doesn't seem to break down the specifics.
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Old 02-26-2017, 09:00 PM
TeamFAS TeamFAS is offline
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Warrensburg, MO
Posts: 45
Default Fuel Tank Leak

To fix this I want to try the loctite 290 method. To put a vacuum on the tank, I guess I should try sucking on the vent tube on the bottom of the plane? Would that work? Not sure if a one-way valve or the such would prevent that. Would a vacuum cleaner hose create too much vacuum?
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