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Compressor Piping

Z

zampano

Member
Two sentence background before I ask my question: aside from minimal maintenance on my motorcycle and a pinewood derby car back in Cub Scouts, I have never built much of anything except Ikea furniture so simple questions are about to follow.

I picked up a 60 gallon 5 hp air compressor, Particulate Filter, Coalescing Filter, and Air Regulator; all are 1/2 inch NPT. This is where I get a little stuck; how do I connect it all?

What I was thinking: 1/2 inch by 6 foot 300 PSI lead in rubber air hose to go from the compressor to the first filter and then 1/2 inch NPT male pipe hex nipple to connect the two filters and then the regulator. Then some kind of brass hex reducing bushing to go from 1/2 inch to 3/8 inch? To that I could attach air hoses that lead to the tools.
 
Good Job!

It looks like you have the bases covered. The bushing might need to be 1/2 X 1/4 as most hoses are 1/4 NPT ends. You might consider a quick connect at the pressure regulator exit, and a ball valve back at the tank going into the connector hose. Also, a friend got a small manifold, several compact quick couplers, and 10' (or so) super flexible hose for each of his tools. The manifold attached to his work bench. It is more useful than mine :eek:

Edit: You might want to put the compressor 20' away from the work area to save your hearing.

I think this is the kit my friend has. Easily mounted to the bench.
 
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Perfect! Thanks for the advice/help. I wish I could put the compressor 20+ feet away but unfortunately putting it outside is out of the question. I left the hose coming off the regulator at 3/8" and I'll attach a manifold to the workbench then use 1/4" hoses off of that.

I couldn't find a quick connect in 3/8" that I liked; do you have a link where I should look? Any idea if the connectors from the manifold block kit are quick connect or not?
 
I like the Milton M style couplers. Here is a Milton catalogue.

Look closely at the cleaveland link, yes the couplers are mini quick connect.
 
How did you connect everything?

I'm in the same boat. I've got my compressor and filter/regulator and a 6' 1/2" whip to go between them. Should have got a shorter whip, but it will do. I picked up a 3/8" hose reel and a short whip to connect to it to my copper line.

My question is how did you connect everything and still be able to take out a component? The fittings don't rotate on the hose. I connected the whip to the compressor. Next is to connect the whip to the regulator. I can connect that and rotate the regulator as I tighten it. When it's tight I can slip it into it's mounting bracket. What about the other side? My plan was to connect to a copper fitting that I have already sweated to a length of pipe. That way I'm not sweating pipe next to the regulator. Then I can continue sweating pipe as I go.

What happens if I need to change the regulator? Serviceability? The way it looks now, I would have to cut the pipe on the downward side and work my way back and then sweat it back in. Are there quick disconnects for compressed air like on my natural gas fittings to my furnace and hot water heater? What did everyone else do? Should I just connect it all and not worry about it?

I was looking at the rapidair 1/2" so I could run from my garage to my basement. It doesn't look too sturdy and I'm wondering if it would leak, especially over time. The 3/4" looks better, but when I add everything up I think I can do copper for slightly less, although I think I could replace things easier with rapidair.

First timer, but trying to think ahead.

Regards,
Jeff
 
2 Regulators

I used black iron pipe and made a manifold with 2 regulators. One is set to 30 - 40 psi for the rivet gun, and the other is set to 90 psi for everything else. The 2 flexible air hoses are different colors and the regulators have quick disconnect fittings.

Dave
 
Harbor Freight

Check out Harbor Freight as they Have most of what you might need. I have a 3in1 at the compressor and have the compressor outside in a storage shed to keep the noise level down. The 3 light weight manifold is so nice to use, wouldn't be w/o it.
 
coffeeguy said:
I'm in the same boat. I've got my compressor and filter/regulator and a 6' 1/2" whip to go between them. Should have got a shorter whip, but it will do. I picked up a 3/8" hose reel and a short whip to connect to it to my copper line.

My question is how did you connect everything and still be able to take out a component? The fittings don't rotate on the hose. I connected the whip to the compressor. Next is to connect the whip to the regulator. I can connect that and rotate the regulator as I tighten it. When it's tight I can slip it into it's mounting bracket. What about the other side? My plan was to connect to a copper fitting that I have already sweated to a length of pipe. That way I'm not sweating pipe next to the regulator. Then I can continue sweating pipe as I go.

What happens if I need to change the regulator? Serviceability? The way it looks now, I would have to cut the pipe on the downward side and work my way back and then sweat it back in. Are there quick disconnects for compressed air like on my natural gas fittings to my furnace and hot water heater? What did everyone else do? Should I just connect it all and not worry about it?

I was looking at the rapidair 1/2" so I could run from my garage to my basement. It doesn't look too sturdy and I'm wondering if it would leak, especially over time. The 3/4" looks better, but when I add everything up I think I can do copper for slightly less, although I think I could replace things easier with rapidair.

First timer, but trying to think ahead.

Regards,
Jeff
Click to expand...

I used black iron pipe (1/2") for my distribution 20+ yrs ago and now it spits small rust particles. I like your options of rapidair or copper. 3/4" actual i.d. It will last a long time and remain clean. Look at solder selection, though, I would not use standard plumbing solder.

I went to an on-highway truck shop and got a 4' whip made of truck air hose with 37 deg flare fittings, that makes good break point. Today, I think they use a lot of solid nylon hose. Truck hardware is tough, reliable, and cheap. Use what they have in your area.
 
Thanks for all the suggestions. I think that I've got an idea of how to proceed. The last one that escapes me, though, is how to assemble it and still be able to replace the regulator/filter without cutting the pipe. That's my real question.

I'm not real keen on black pipe because of flaking, so it's either copper or rapidaire.

I can assemble it from the compressor out to the end. If at some point I need to replace the regulator/filter I can't get it out of the line without cutting a line. Is there such a thing as a compressed air quick disconnect for copper mainlines, ala the ones on my furnace and hot water heater natural gas pipe?

Am I overthinking this? :confused:

Thanks,
Jeff
 
I just use pipe unions

Pipe unions (couplings) -- I use them on both sides of something I might need to remove (pool pumps, water valves, air compressor regulators/filters)

Ron
 
Pipe Unions

Yes!!! Thanks. Pipe unions. When you have the proper search term google will find what you want. Still, I wasn't sure if they would handle the air pressure. I even installed two dielectric unions last fall when I replaced my hot water heater. I guess I was so focused on air thru copper that I completely forgot about them. Jeeeez, feeling not so bright now.

Regards,
Jeff
 
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