Beginning my RV7 wing and looking ahead to the fuel tanks. The instructions say to rivet while Proseal is wet, I think I may have heard of letting the Proseal cure with clecoes before riveting but haven't found much info on it. Seems like it would allow you to take your time riveting, with wet rivets of course. Is this an acceptable practice and with good results?
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Proseal cure before riveting?
- Thread starter jibby212
- Start date
David Paule
Well Known Member
That's the way I did it. The tanks held air. We'll see if they also hold fuel.
Dave
Dave
I would not recommend this approach, riveting while wet allows the rivets to set fully and gets the proseal all around them, then I put a layer on top of the set rivets as well.
It is not as hard as you think to rivet them wet, it just takes planning and I used the tubes of proseal in a caulking gun which really make it easier.
It is not as hard as you think to rivet them wet, it just takes planning and I used the tubes of proseal in a caulking gun which really make it easier.
You dont have to be in a hurry, as long as you set the rivets within the same day you are good. the 2 hours (or whatever the cure time is) is just how long it takes before you cant really work with it any more. Its still nowhere near dry.
What seemed to work well for me is use masking tape to mark off the area where you want pro seal on the tank (makes clean up alot easier), put pro seal on both the tank and rib, cleco every hole, then when you remove a cleco to put a rivet in, use a tooth pick to apply a little pro seal in the dimple that way the rivet is sealed too.
Once that is done, come back later and put pro seal on top on the shop end on the rivet to ensure it is all sealed up.
Its not that bad. I found my limit to be about 2 or 3 ribs at a time.
What seemed to work well for me is use masking tape to mark off the area where you want pro seal on the tank (makes clean up alot easier), put pro seal on both the tank and rib, cleco every hole, then when you remove a cleco to put a rivet in, use a tooth pick to apply a little pro seal in the dimple that way the rivet is sealed too.
Once that is done, come back later and put pro seal on top on the shop end on the rivet to ensure it is all sealed up.
Its not that bad. I found my limit to be about 2 or 3 ribs at a time.
wirejock
Well Known Member
Rivet cured
Someone's got to be different.
I allowed mine to set for a day then riveted.
But, every cleko (100%) had a 4-40 nut on the opposite side for extra tension.
I set all the interior ribs, taped the aft open end to keep tension on the baffle end then cured one day while working the other tank. Then back to the first to rivet.
Mine held 27" on the manometer for a month before I called them good. Hopefully they hold fuel too!
Someone's got to be different.
I allowed mine to set for a day then riveted.
But, every cleko (100%) had a 4-40 nut on the opposite side for extra tension.
I set all the interior ribs, taped the aft open end to keep tension on the baffle end then cured one day while working the other tank. Then back to the first to rivet.
Mine held 27" on the manometer for a month before I called them good. Hopefully they hold fuel too!
Beer30?
Well Known Member
Let set for a day or so
I did the same as Wirejock, following the advice of one who had gone before me. Waiting a day makes the Proseal much less gooey, but it is still very pliable. I did a small amount of riveting when still wet and found that the Proseal would ooze out from the rivet gun impact. I believe (with no real data to prove it) that I obtained a better seal by waiting a day. I think there are others on this site that recommend this as well. Do a search on Proseal.
David
I did the same as Wirejock, following the advice of one who had gone before me. Waiting a day makes the Proseal much less gooey, but it is still very pliable. I did a small amount of riveting when still wet and found that the Proseal would ooze out from the rivet gun impact. I believe (with no real data to prove it) that I obtained a better seal by waiting a day. I think there are others on this site that recommend this as well. Do a search on Proseal.
David
burgessbuilderMO13
Active Member
Proseal time
I let the proseal cure for about two weeks prior to riveting the tanks. 17 years of flying later I had no leaks or smoky rivets. Definitely would do it again
I let the proseal cure for about two weeks prior to riveting the tanks. 17 years of flying later I had no leaks or smoky rivets. Definitely would do it again
rmartingt
Well Known Member
I found it equally messy riveting immediately vs. waiting, and so went with riveting immediately.
For what it's worth, the shop manuals for the big airplanes I work with note that either method is acceptable for sealed parts (we seal almost everything, not just fuel tanks, for corrosion and pressurization). However, it also notes that spring clecoes alone do not provide adequate clamping force for the "let it set" method. For riveting immediately, they are acceptable because the rivets will provide the rest of the clamping.
For what it's worth, the shop manuals for the big airplanes I work with note that either method is acceptable for sealed parts (we seal almost everything, not just fuel tanks, for corrosion and pressurization). However, it also notes that spring clecoes alone do not provide adequate clamping force for the "let it set" method. For riveting immediately, they are acceptable because the rivets will provide the rest of the clamping.
longranger
Well Known Member
ppilotmike
Well Known Member
One more data point
For my trailing edges (RV-10 uses AEX wedges in the TEs), I let the Proseal set up, with clecos in every hole, then riveted, for less mess. For my fuel tanks, I let the first one set a little before riveting, but still pliable so the ProSeal squished out. The main benefit was I could have the clecos hold things in place while I did some cleanup, then when I riveted, the little bead that squished out could easily be filleted. Second tank, I just did wet, which was slightly messier, but not much. Both tanks passed their leak tests with flying colors, so take your pick with the method. I think the only way you could potentially get into trouble would be laying in too much proseal, not using adequate cleco force and letting the whole thing harden before riveting. This could provide more separation between parts that is desirable. My $0.02. Have fun and be sure to wipe your nose/face a few times during the process. Amazing how itches arise at the most inopportune times..
For my trailing edges (RV-10 uses AEX wedges in the TEs), I let the Proseal set up, with clecos in every hole, then riveted, for less mess. For my fuel tanks, I let the first one set a little before riveting, but still pliable so the ProSeal squished out. The main benefit was I could have the clecos hold things in place while I did some cleanup, then when I riveted, the little bead that squished out could easily be filleted. Second tank, I just did wet, which was slightly messier, but not much. Both tanks passed their leak tests with flying colors, so take your pick with the method. I think the only way you could potentially get into trouble would be laying in too much proseal, not using adequate cleco force and letting the whole thing harden before riveting. This could provide more separation between parts that is desirable. My $0.02. Have fun and be sure to wipe your nose/face a few times during the process. Amazing how itches arise at the most inopportune times..
wirejock
Well Known Member
Proseal rivets
First the nuts. Unfortunately, 4-40 is a tad too small so I drilled them #40. 6-32 was too big. It only took a few minutes.
Yes, I used a stick from a Q-tip to apply proseal to the hole before inserting a rivet. Also, several other steps that cut the mess to almost nothing.
It's all documented on my blog.
First the nuts. Unfortunately, 4-40 is a tad too small so I drilled them #40. 6-32 was too big. It only took a few minutes.
Yes, I used a stick from a Q-tip to apply proseal to the hole before inserting a rivet. Also, several other steps that cut the mess to almost nothing.
It's all documented on my blog.
