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  #1  
Old 02-27-2010, 07:50 PM
Mich48041 Mich48041 is online now
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Riley TWP MI
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Default 27-04 Step 3 Brass Insert

Forcing the brass insert into the nylon brake line tube was difficult for me using the boiling water method. I found an easier way is to push the insert with a hot aluminum nail. I held the nail with vise grips, heated it in the center with a propane torch and pushed. Only a very small flame is needed. As soon as the insert starts going in, move away from the flame. Do not push the insert in too far or else the end of the tube will mushroom. Not much heat is required. Even a lighter or candle might work, but I did not try them.
Joe
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  #2  
Old 02-27-2010, 09:34 PM
Harvey L. Sorensen Harvey L. Sorensen is offline
 
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Posts: 164
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I thought you put the brass tube in the nylon line before you slid the compression sleeve over the line. Have I been doing this wrong?
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  #3  
Old 02-28-2010, 05:58 AM
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Geico266 Geico266 is offline
 
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Location: Huskerland, USA
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I would think either method would work, as long as you don't overheat the nylon.
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  #4  
Old 03-14-2010, 09:55 AM
Mich48041 Mich48041 is online now
 
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Default brass inserts

In an article written by KEN SCOTT in the 2 - 2009 issue of RVator quoted below, is an easier way to insert the brass inserts into plastic brake lines. It is too bad that I did not read that before working on the brake lines.
Joe

Quote:
Now, working on small soft plastic parts with a
hammer just offends some people’s engineering
sensibilities. When Ken Krueger heard this, he
looked into the problem. What he found is the
plastic tubing, as manufactured, varies significantly
in wall thickness. Sometimes the inserts
will push in with your thumb, sometimes they will
actually be loose, and sometimes they fit so tightly
it seems impossible to get them in. Ken’s method
was simple and direct: drill the last ˝” or so of the
tubing with a #29 twist drill. If it pulls shavings out,
the finished wall will be no thinner than the thinner
walls resulting from production variation. If it
doesn’t…well, there you are. In either case, the
insert will insert -- no boiling water necessary.
The building plans/manual will be revised to
include the “drill bit solution”.
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  #5  
Old 06-08-2011, 09:28 PM
rleem7@zipnet.us rleem7@zipnet.us is offline
 
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Location: San Angelo, Texas
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Default

Did not fancy boilling water so I tried the heat gun approach worked well, just do not overheat.
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  #6  
Old 06-09-2011, 07:45 AM
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DonFromTX DonFromTX is offline
 
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Location: La Feria Texas
Posts: 3,548
Default

I must have got some proper sized tubing. I just started them in the tube, then pushed them the rest of the way by putting the brass up against a table edge. Tight, but no boiling water stuff.
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  #7  
Old 06-09-2011, 03:29 PM
yankee-flyer yankee-flyer is offline
 
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Location: Dayton, OH
Posts: 828
Red face Re: brass Inserts

I wish Ken had published that defore I did the brakes on 120241. Boiling water just did not work. I worked the tube and insert, helper appkied heat with a heat gun. We found out that there is such a thing as too much heat!

Apply heat slowly, once the tubing starts to "give" it softens quickly!

Wayne 120241
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  #8  
Old 02-05-2012, 06:55 AM
rgmwa rgmwa is offline
 
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Location: Perth, Western Australia
Posts: 1,519
Default Seating the inserts

I've been using the boiling water method to try to get these inserts into the tube. They are TIGHT!! Can anyone tell me if the insert is meant to be completely flush with the end of the plastic tube, or just pushed in until the base of the lip contacts the the tube. Some of mine pushed in a little more easily and are flush. Others were more difficult (none were easy), and the lip or part of it is visible.
Which is correct or doesn't it matter? The instructions (27-04) say `until it bottoms against the end of the plastic tube', but it's not clear (to me anyway) if they mean the top of the lip or the base of the lip. Is it critical?
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Last edited by rgmwa : 02-05-2012 at 06:58 AM.
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  #9  
Old 02-05-2012, 07:59 AM
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DonFromTX DonFromTX is offline
 
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Location: La Feria Texas
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Default

They mean up against the end of the tube. I found boiling water did not help a bit actually, so adopted the "push it in" tactic. Worked very well for me and my size tubing. It needs some force to push it in, but up against a solid surface it was not too bad.
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Last edited by DonFromTX : 02-05-2012 at 09:38 AM.
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  #10  
Old 02-05-2012, 09:06 AM
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Mike S Mike S is online now
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Harvey L. Sorensen View Post
I thought you put the brass tube in the nylon line before you slid the compression sleeve over the line. Have I been doing this wrong?
I always put bead on the tube, (along with the nut) first, but slide it back enough it is not in the area of the inner tub. Then insert the brass insert, and lastly slide the nut and bead toward the end of the tube, final location will be determined when you put the tubing into the fitting, bottom the plastic tube in the fitting, slide the bead, and nut forward, and tighten them down.

I find it makes things easier to put a very slight chamfer on the inside of the bead------if the bead seems to be tight on the plastic tube.
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