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  #1  
Old 01-16-2010, 04:54 PM
blackbeard10's Avatar
blackbeard10 blackbeard10 is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: OH
Posts: 173
Default RV 4 wing install spar plate frustration!!

Frustrated!
It's time to put the wings on the RV4 fuselage. The wings will come back off for paint later. Vans recommended only four bolts per wing to do the alignment and and fuel lines etc. So far so good. My spars for both wings fit very snuggly into the 404 and the rear attach point lined up nicely. Okay, time for bolts and the hardened steel plates that mate the two spars. No problem with the top plates (forward and aft). The bottom forward plate drops in okay. The aft plate bottom plate is the problem. How in the holy heck will this slide down in between the center stringers.
Torque tube needs to be removed(took photo before I removed it). Have to slide wing out to remove it.
HELP!

Mark Wyss
Cincinnati
RV 4 finish

Last edited by blackbeard10 : 01-16-2010 at 05:33 PM. Reason: photo problem
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  #2  
Old 01-16-2010, 05:32 PM
OceanBob OceanBob is offline
 
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Location: Trabuco Canyon, California
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Default Here is the photo

Corrected:

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  #3  
Old 01-16-2010, 05:40 PM
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blackbeard10 blackbeard10 is offline
 
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Posts: 173
Default Photo help

Thanks Ocean Bob
Mark Wyss
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  #4  
Old 01-16-2010, 08:06 PM
Frank Frank is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Northwest
Posts: 79
Default Splice Plate Installation

I realize this may be a little late for your specific installation but for those still faced with assembly of the lower splice plates on either the -4 (or -3) airframes, I found it convenient to put the splice plates in place prior to installing and riveting of the seat ribs (and floor panels). They may rattle around a bit but since they won't go in after riveting the seat ribs, they probably won't fall out either.
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  #5  
Old 01-16-2010, 08:12 PM
rvaitor87 rvaitor87 is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Bartow, Florida
Posts: 203
Default Spar trouble

I had the same problem with mine. What I did was to cut a angle in the bottom of the stringers, large enough to install and remove the bottom plate. It will still be a pain in the b*tt to install and remove, but it is the best way I've found, and it will not take away any strength from the stringers.
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  #6  
Old 03-06-2017, 06:06 PM
Steve H Steve H is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 2
Default

Mike,
I know this is 7 years later, but would you please give more detail what you did to be able to remove the bottom rear splice plate?
I am repairing an RV-4 and have to get the bottom rear splice plate out of the plane and replace with the new plates being provided with the new wing spar.

Thanks.

Steve H

Last edited by Steve H : 03-06-2017 at 06:08 PM.
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  #7  
Old 03-06-2017, 06:08 PM
Steve H Steve H is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 2
Default

Mark,
Like I said to Mike, I know this is 7 years later, but would you give specific information concerning how you got the bottom rear splice plate out of your plane?
I am repairing an RV-4 and have to get the bottom rear splice plate out of the plane and replace with the new plates being provided with the new wing spar.

Thanks.

Steve H
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  #8  
Old 12-05-2017, 06:31 PM
RepmikeBrown RepmikeBrown is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Tahlequah , Ok
Posts: 114
Default BOTTOM STRINGER

Steve.
Wondering if you did cut the bottom sides of the floor stringers in order to install your new spar plates? I'm ready to install wings and didn't want to pull the torque tube and stick.
If it is possible to cut an angle in the stringers do you have a picture of what you did.

Thanks,
Mike
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