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Old 03-17-2017, 03:59 AM
rzbill's Avatar
rzbill rzbill is offline
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Asheville, NC
Posts: 2,550

Originally Posted by Mike S View Post
Yep--------used flox to marry the shape to the stab, then sanded the top to the thickness I wanted.

Flox is structural strength, you do not need cloth
Same here. Packing tape, flox, sand to shape.

Good thing flox it structural. I kid myself about my fairings not having any glass left after all the shape repair during construction.
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Old 03-17-2017, 05:27 AM
jimbower jimbower is offline
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: St. Louis, MO
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I did have luck with the judicious application of a heat gun. I don't think a hair dryer will get it hot enough. Take your time and bend it farther than you have to, and I think that bit will lay down. Last resort would be to cut a notch out of it and re-glass, but I don't think you will have to.

Jim Bower
RV-6A N143DJ
Flying since 2011
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Old 03-17-2017, 05:47 AM
Tom Martin Tom Martin is offline
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Ontario, Canada
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Follow Scott Hersha's suggestions. I do basically the same thing and it takes one to two hours a day for a week or so. I have not had a lot of luck with the heat gun as glass tends to have a bit of a memory. You can see fine examples of this memory at AirVenture when you look at nice painted farings that have gaps between the screws.
Try to make the part fit so that you can use the minimum number of screws. It looks better and you will get your time back many times over the years of maintenance.
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Old 03-17-2017, 07:29 AM
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snopercod snopercod is offline
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Default post curing

I would try heat first. It's called "post curing" and I have read 80C for 3 hrs. is about right for vinyl ester resin. Disclaimer: You'll have to verify the proper time and temp yourself. I've always used a heat gun on small parts.
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Old 03-17-2017, 08:55 AM
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snoopyflys snoopyflys is offline
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Katy, TX
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Default Thanks!

thanks for the replies. I stared at this for a while and figured I would ask the group since I was stuck. I will give the flox solution a try. How much of the fairing on the HS leading edge is needed? I've seen some posts where the fairing flanges are trimmed back. Is a .5" edge distance a good practice to follow?
Dan Schultz
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Last edited by snoopyflys : 03-17-2017 at 12:39 PM. Reason: Chell specking. ;-/
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Old 03-17-2017, 09:37 PM
drone_pilot drone_pilot is offline
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Hobbs, NM
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I had a similar problem and I made long longitudinal cuts (6" or so) down the fairing to relieve the tension that the clecos apply trying to pull the fairing down to the HS skin. That solved the puckering problem for me. I then laid a couple of plies of glass cloth over the cuts and sanded and it came out pretty nice. I hope that makes sense. The heat gun didn't work but the longitudinal cuts on the fairing between the VS and HS allowed things to twist and lay properly. The glass over the cuts locks things in place for a proper fit. I did lay packing tape down on all surfaces just because the epoxy seems to make it to places where you don't want it.

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Old 03-19-2017, 07:33 AM
Scott Hersha Scott Hersha is offline
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Cincinnati, OH
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Flox is structural - true, but keep in mind that if the magnitude of the 'pucker' is high enough, you'll have nothing but flox in places after grinding through the original layup from the top. I prefer to have a uniform layer of fiberglass cloth where it lays on the aluminum surface to tie everything together. Plus - it's very easy to do.
Cincinnati, OH/KHAO
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Old 03-19-2017, 10:39 AM
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gbitzer gbitzer is offline
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 17

I was surprised by the fit of the stock Van's rear fairing. However it makes a great starting point. I simply wrapped the vertical and horizontal stabs with plastic film. (the type used for grocery bags works well, releases from the epoxy well). After protecting the stabs I glassed the stock fairing onto the plane and wrapped it around the front of the horizontal stab. The fit is great and the whole thing is held in place with 4 countersunk #8 screws. After 15 years and almost 2,000 hours it is still working great. Pics included.

don't wrap the glass around both ends of the stab unless you never want to remove it
Greg Bitzer
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Last edited by gbitzer : 03-19-2017 at 10:08 PM.
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Old 03-20-2017, 06:54 AM
Scott Hersha Scott Hersha is offline
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Location: Cincinnati, OH
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Beautiful job! I've done the same process a few times and it's not that difficult to do - just some time in sanding and waiting between lay ups/filling. Makes you look like an artist..... nice job.
Cincinnati, OH/KHAO
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