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  #1  
Old 03-15-2017, 05:40 PM
Rob H Rob H is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Knoxville, IL
Posts: 48
Default Help, wing rivet question

RV12 Page 17-02 steps 4-7 , reference Figure 1
This is for newer RV12's and can be a retrofit for older models. When riveting the W1201A Doubler and bottom inboard wing skin to the wing spar and rib underneath, the most inboard rivet calls for CR3213-4-3. The problem occurs when I pull the rivet, it doesn't grab the flange of the wing rib underneath, the shop end pulls right through. It's happened twice now. I'm wondering if I can drill #40 a small piece of scrap to use like a washer underneath since it pulls right through the #30 hole in the rib flange? Has anyone else experienced this problem? Also, I'm guessing I can't use a LP4-3 because it's not the right spec for strength? Help please!
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  #2  
Old 03-15-2017, 08:36 PM
Jim T Jim T is offline
 
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Location: Independence, OR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob H View Post
RV12 Page 17-02 steps 4-7 , reference Figure 1
This is for newer RV12's and can be a retrofit for older models. When riveting the W1201A Doubler and bottom inboard wing skin to the wing spar and rib underneath, the most inboard rivet calls for CR3213-4-3. The problem occurs when I pull the rivet, it doesn't grab the flange of the wing rib underneath, the shop end pulls right through. It's happened twice now. I'm wondering if I can drill #40 a small piece of scrap to use like a washer underneath since it pulls right through the #30 hole in the rib flange? Has anyone else experienced this problem? Also, I'm guessing I can't use a LP4-3 because it's not the right spec for strength? Help please!
I just installed the retrofit kit on my older wings. Didn't have any problem with pull through. I'll take a closer look at it tomorrow to see how close I might have been to pull through.

Jim
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  #3  
Old 03-15-2017, 09:25 PM
Rob H Rob H is offline
 
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Thanks, Jim. I didn't even know that mine pulled through until I turned the wing over to work on the ther side. After I installed another CR rivet, it looks like there isn't enough grip length on that rivet, whereas a lp4-3 would work fine. I put in an email to the Mothership.
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  #4  
Old 03-16-2017, 08:43 AM
Jim T Jim T is offline
 
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Location: Independence, OR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob H View Post
Thanks, Jim. I didn't even know that mine pulled through until I turned the wing over to work on the ther side. After I installed another CR rivet, it looks like there isn't enough grip length on that rivet, whereas a lp4-3 would work fine. I put in an email to the Mothership.

Rob.......please post what you hear back.

Thanks, Jim
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  #5  
Old 03-16-2017, 11:04 AM
rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Hubbard Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob H View Post
RV12 Page 17-02 steps 4-7 , reference Figure 1
This is for newer RV12's and can be a retrofit for older models. When riveting the W1201A Doubler and bottom inboard wing skin to the wing spar and rib underneath, the most inboard rivet calls for CR3213-4-3. The problem occurs when I pull the rivet, it doesn't grab the flange of the wing rib underneath, the shop end pulls right through. It's happened twice now. I'm wondering if I can drill #40 a small piece of scrap to use like a washer underneath since it pulls right through the #30 hole in the rib flange? Has anyone else experienced this problem? Also, I'm guessing I can't use a LP4-3 because it's not the right spec for strength? Help please!
If you are using the correct rivet, and the hole was not accidentally enlarged during removal of a previously installed rivet, The specified rivet should just barely fit through the hole so making a washer with a #40 hole should be of no benefit (the rivet fits a #30 not #40 hole).
Is it possible that when you final drilled the 8 holes for the BSPQ rivets you did the most inboard one also? If so, the Cherry rivet wont work.
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  #6  
Old 03-16-2017, 02:37 PM
Jim T Jim T is offline
 
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Rob.......I just checked and mine are nice and tight. I looked at the shop head with a mirror and can see where they've expanded slightly.

As Scott mentioned........if the inboard hole was inadvertently drilled #22 like the other 8 that were called out for #22, that would account for the problem.

Jim
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  #7  
Old 03-16-2017, 02:52 PM
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LettersFromFlyoverCountry LettersFromFlyoverCountry is offline
 
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What are you using for a puller. Wasn't there some note that the puller Van's recommends won't work for certain rivets?
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  #8  
Old 03-16-2017, 09:33 PM
Rob H Rob H is offline
 
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Ok guys, I did not drill it out to #22. And Scott is correct that a #40 would not work. Van's email said it would be okay to use a CR rivet with a little bit longer grip length. So I'm going to try a 4-4 instead of the 4-3. I primed the doubler, skin, and rib, so maybe that added just enough thickness that the rivet wasn't getting a good grip. I appreciate the help and thanks for checking yours, Jim.
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  #9  
Old 03-16-2017, 09:35 PM
Rob H Rob H is offline
 
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I'm using a pneumatic puller from Cleaveland tools. I think by priming my parts, the grip length of the called out rivet wasn't quite sufficient.
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