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  #1  
Old 03-01-2017, 12:04 PM
Dale Cross Dale Cross is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Republic of Ireland
Posts: 2
Default RV-8 Wings: What would you do differently if you had to build them again.

Hello all,

I am building an RV-8 in Ireland. This is my first time posting and it is inspired by Martin Leroux's recent question concerning the fuselage build. The feedback he got was great and I am hoping for some of the same!

I have a question to those who have built and are now operating a RV-8, or to those who have just completed building their RV-8 Wings.

The Question is: If you had to build another a set of RV-8 Wings, what would you do differently ? Any features you would add to improve the serviceability of your aircraft, and that would be easier to implement while you'd be building the wings? Any other suggestions ?

I have the wing kit and should be starting to work on it in the next week or two. In general I am planning wing tip lights and a heated pitot probe.

Thanks,

Dale Cross
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RV8 Wings
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  #2  
Old 03-01-2017, 12:56 PM
SgtZim SgtZim is offline
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Crittenden, ky
Posts: 88
Default

Well, I'm not done, but. I learned by the second wing a better way to rivet the main ribs to the main (front) spar. It was much easier - especially at the closely spaced inner ribs - to lay the main spar face down with the ribs clecoed and pointing up from the bench. Either hang the part you're working on off the end of the bench or prop up on a couple of blocks to get the bucking bar under the front face of the spar. Rivet the wing walk area from inner ribs to the root one at a time to maximize easy access.

My biggest mistake was a slightly buggered rivet on one of the aileron brackets, which I buggered up worse when drilling it out. That is not an area you want to mess up and have to buy an new spar and all the attached parts. I fixed it after talking to Van's by adding the Service Bulletin kit for the bracket. I think I'd put those in on both sides anyway to beef up that area.

Happy building!
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IO360-M1B Sensenich fixed pitch
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  #3  
Old 03-01-2017, 01:28 PM
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Ron RV8 Ron RV8 is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Okanagan Valley BC, Canada
Posts: 403
Default

I would NOT use a 12" double offset back rivet set for the top skins. Could not get consistent shop heads. It broke so I started using swivel mushroom set with tungsten bucking bar. Much better plus gave experience for bottom skins later when you can't see what you are doing.
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Okanagan Valley BC, Canada
RV-8 Completed Dec 2013

Membership renewed Dec 5, 2016
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  #4  
Old 03-01-2017, 02:37 PM
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fl-mike fl-mike is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 813
Default

  1. Check the rear spar flange angle to be sure you won't end up with a "ski jump" after skinning. If you do, Van's has a tool to bend after the fact, but that would be a logistical pain considering your location.
  2. Buy the hinge material to do the wingtip hinge attach method.
  3. Install the roll servo bracket
  4. Install the pitot mount
  5. Drill all the extra conduit and wiring attach holes in the ribs
  6. Install deluxe fuel caps (I went with the non-locking)
  7. Buy the landing light kits if you are going that route.
  8. I liked the tubes of tank sealant rather than the can. Think I bought six or eight tubes. Worth the cost for me, much less mess and easier to control. I also used access panel sealant for the sender plates and sealed nutplates.
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Venice, FL
RV-6A. Mattituck TMX O-360, FP, GRT Sport EFIS
N164WM
N184WM reserved (RV-8)....tail kit done, slow-build wing done, slow-build fuselage started.
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  #5  
Old 03-01-2017, 05:47 PM
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MartinACFactory MartinACFactory is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Montreal, Quebec, Canada
Posts: 78
Default That thread title reminds me of something....

Hello !

I don't know why, but that thread title reminded me of something

Being on Final Assy for the Fuselage, and with wings to build next, I was going to ask this question soon anyway. Glad you've asked before I did

As for the wings, based on what I've read here on VAF for RV-8 used in cold weather operation, I will make a blanking plate for the NACA duct under the wing, and install nutplates in the skin panel to hold this blanking plate in place. I'll do that because I will be flying in a cold climate (Eastern Canada), and I'd like to keep the cockpit warm by preventing cold air entering by the passenger air duct. Summer time, the blanking plate will be removed, and fresh air will flow again in the back seat area.

I will be following this thread with interest for sure !
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Martin Leroux
Terrebonne, Quebec, Canada
RV-8 s/n #80414
Kitlog: http://www.mykitlog.com/MartRV80414/
Empennage: 95% (ready for inspection)
Fuselage: 85% (Canoe 1.5 in progress !)
Wings: Wanted Quickbuild, but CAD to USD makes it impossible....
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  #6  
Old 03-01-2017, 07:46 PM
Ron RV8's Avatar
Ron RV8 Ron RV8 is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Okanagan Valley BC, Canada
Posts: 403
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MartinACFactory View Post
Hello !

As for the wings, based on what I've read here on VAF for RV-8 used in cold weather operation, I will make a blanking plate for the NACA duct under the wing, and install nutplates in the skin panel to hold this blanking plate in place. I'll do that because I will be flying in a cold climate (Eastern Canada), and I'd like to keep the cockpit warm by preventing cold air entering by the passenger air duct. Summer time, the blanking plate will be removed, and fresh air will flow again in the back seat area.
Stein eyeball vents, no leaks... Option for air if you want it...

If you want good heat, seal the back of the canopy well and install mufflers with heat muffs... Search for details...
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Okanagan Valley BC, Canada
RV-8 Completed Dec 2013

Membership renewed Dec 5, 2016
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  #7  
Old 03-01-2017, 08:21 PM
Carr Carr is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Langley BC
Posts: 67
Default Fuel

Add larger fuel capacity. You will not regret it.

Easy to do if you haven't started building yet. Just order non punched tank
skins and extra tank ribs.

Fuel prices vary in my area by up to $1.00 a US gallon.
It's nice to be able to tanker extra when you can.

My 8 can take 32 US per side. When the wife says "I'm good", we go a long
way.



Carr
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  #8  
Old 03-01-2017, 08:40 PM
scsmith scsmith is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Ashland, OR
Posts: 1,609
Default

Do not waste time and trouble installing a flop tube, unless you plan on a real full-inverted system
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  #9  
Old 03-01-2017, 09:23 PM
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goatflieg goatflieg is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Clarkston, MI
Posts: 238
Default

Don't forget to check the plans for multiple layers when dimpling/countersinking, especially preparing a QB wing flap brace. Don't forget that you've got the hinge as part of the assembly, because the manual won't remind you. You want to dimple the top skin and countersink the middle layer (flap brace per plans; some builders sandwich the hinge). Do all drilling and mock up control surfaces before dimpling, deburring, priming and riveting. I'm sure you don't have to ask why this is on my mind right now... and it's not the first time. It will be remedied... but it's a pain.
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Clarkston, MI
RV-8 #83507 - empennage complete (except fiberglass)
QB wings & fuselage ARRIVED!
N657AR reserved
Builder websites:
http://goatflieg.blogspot.com/
http://www.mykitlog.com/goatflieg/
Dues paid for 2017... extra payment included for psychological therapeutic services rendered.

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  #10  
Old 03-01-2017, 09:23 PM
DaAV8R DaAV8R is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Lee's Summit, MO
Posts: 738
Default Flap Hinges

Considering your location I would buy wider hinge material for the flaps. Many seem to need wider hinge material to maintain edge distance. I don't think the hinge material is very expensive and it might save you some freight dollars down the road.
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Lee's Summit, MO
RV-8 - Empennage & Wings Done
Working on Fuse
O-360-A1A

1946 Cessna 120
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