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  #1  
Old 02-26-2017, 09:11 PM
Tmartin66 Tmartin66 is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Washington,Oklahoma
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Default Elevator trailing edge-proseal as opposed to tape

OK Gang, I am about to assemble the elevators and plan to use proseal as opposed to the double sided tape. My plans only describe the tape method. Currently my plan is to proseal the trailing edge at the same time I proseal the foam ribs and cleco the trailing edge together. Then let it cure for a few days before I rivet. So is this how others have done it or is there a better way. I'm a newbie so any advice is appreciated.
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Old 02-26-2017, 09:17 PM
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Carl Froehlich Carl Froehlich is offline
 
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That works. For the RV-10 I did similar but I clamped the trailing edge between two pieces of 2"x2" steel angle iron to make sure the trailing edge was straight. Double flush rivets came after cure. This might be more important for the flaps and such, but I did it anyway for the tail.

Carl
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Old 02-27-2017, 03:57 AM
salto salto is offline
 
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I tried all methods, Elevator and rudder double sided tape, flaps proseal and ailerons nothing at all just very carefully squeezed up the rivets all worked out fine.
I think the trick is make sure you prep everything as perfect as possible. ie good dimples, correct depth countersinks and straight /flat work table.
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  #4  
Old 02-27-2017, 05:41 AM
Ron B. Ron B. is online now
 
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I tried the tape on one edge and did not like the results so I went back the RV-10 method of using Proseal.
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Old 02-27-2017, 05:56 AM
Reflex Reflex is offline
 
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I tried both. Prefer the Proseal method. Gives time to work and stick well. Remember to scuff/clean both sides before applying the Proseal. Used a foam roller to apply, worked great.

Fred
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Old 02-27-2017, 06:12 AM
mturnerb mturnerb is offline
 
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On the rudder trailing edge I used a method described on "Carl and Rafael" RV-14A build site (a GREAT site by the way - http://www.rv14a.com ). They used JB Weld. This worked great, but I also clecoed to a piece of aluminum bar to keep the edge straight (worked very well). The challenge was separating the bar from the edge when I removed the clecos - JB Weld seeped out around the clecos and bonded to the bar.

I used proseal on the elevator trailing edges - had it already to bond the foam ribs. I liked it - and as others mentioned it's all about the preparation. It was easier to clean up after everything was all bonded up / clecoed.

TB
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Old 02-27-2017, 08:54 AM
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N941WR N941WR is offline
 
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Do NOT wait for the proseal to dry before riveting. Rivet it wet. If not the proseal will keep the rivets from setting all the way. Over time the proseal will "work", leaving you with loose rivets.

On the -9 the plans call for proseal on the stiffeners, this helps prevent the skin from flexing and cracking at the rivets closest to the trailing edge.
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  #8  
Old 02-27-2017, 09:07 AM
shanecfi shanecfi is offline
 
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Location: Macedonia, Ohio
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Default Trailing Edge

I just completed my rudder (14a). For a first time builder I am happy with it. I showed pictures to my EAA chapter and they said it was good. I know it was just a picture, haveing my tech adviser over next week. We shall really see then. I used the tape method and plan to use it throughout the build. Did you use tape on your rudder and if so why do you want to use a different method? I am forever looking at everyone's methods of doing things. After I will be asking my wife to travel with me at 10,000 feet at almost 200 mph. in a machine we built.

Many thanks alll
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Old 02-27-2017, 09:15 AM
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N941WR N941WR is offline
 
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The problem with this forum is that someone will post something that "works good" but has never flown. Then others start to follow what could be a bad example and have problems after a couple of hundred hours of flight.

It is best to follow what Van's recommends and not deviate from it.
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  #10  
Old 02-27-2017, 10:22 AM
Ron B. Ron B. is online now
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N941WR View Post
The problem with this forum is that someone will post something that "works good" but has never flown. Then others start to follow what could be a bad example and have problems after a couple of hundred hours of flight.

It is best to follow what Van's recommends and not deviate from it.
Van's recommends one method on the RV-10 and another on the RV-14. Same ailerons.
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