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  #1  
Old 02-22-2017, 01:43 PM
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WingedFrog WingedFrog is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Raleigh, NC
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Default Useful Complements to Moeller Gauge

After closing my fuel tank windows due to leaks (at Hobbs 170 /3 years flying) I missed the precision of the content they were offering. Indeed the Moeller gauge is too inacurate and not linear from empty to full. Worse, in case of failure of the Moeller as we have already seen happening, you have no way to know where you stand above the max of the in-tank sensor.

Like the Fuel Tank Windows, this rod made of 1/8 inch fiberglass will not lie. It slides easily in the fuel tank neck passed the return fuel line. Just calibrate it from an empty tank and print the calibration on a piece of measuring tape as seen on the picture:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzX...ew?usp=sharing

Keep this picture of the Moeller gauge dial with a Gallon scale with your Checklist:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzX...ew?usp=sharing
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  #2  
Old 02-23-2017, 01:40 PM
pstraub pstraub is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Galt, CA
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Thanks Jean-Pierre, that is helpful for me. I am just getting ready to calibrate my tank for the first time. I can certainly see the benefit to having a visual reference in addition to the Moeller gauge for those of us without the sight window. By the way, did you ever say hello to Robert Fini for me? (sorry, that should probably be in a PM). Paul
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  #3  
Old 02-23-2017, 02:27 PM
David Paule David Paule is offline
 
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Location: Boulder, CO
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Not in an RV-12, but I just use a dowel with notches in it. Every few years I renumber the notches with a pencil.

The only important detail is that the stick needs to be long enough that it can't possibly fall into the tank.

Dave
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Old 02-24-2017, 06:22 AM
todehnal todehnal is offline
 
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Location: Kentucky Lakes area in KY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WingedFrog View Post
After closing my fuel tank windows due to leaks (at Hobbs 170 /3 years flying) I missed the precision of the content they were offering. Indeed the Moeller gauge is too inacurate and not linear from empty to full. Worse, in case of failure of the Moeller as we have already seen happening, you have no way to know where you stand above the max of the in-tank sensor.

Like the Fuel Tank Windows, this rod made of 1/8 inch fiberglass will not lie. It slides easily in the fuel tank neck passed the return fuel line. Just calibrate it from an empty tank and print the calibration on a piece of measuring tape as seen on the picture:
Great idea, and although I could not locate a 1/8" fiberglass rod, I did try other materials. The problem that I had was in getting a consistent reading due to the large filler tube allowing the bottom of the rod to drift to different locations on the bottom of the tank. How do you control that issue? Also, a source for your rod would help. Thanks in advance...........Tom
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  #5  
Old 02-24-2017, 06:55 AM
John-G John-G is offline
 
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Location: Northeast Ohio
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Jean-Pierre

Looking at your photo of the Moeller gauge with the gallon markings added gave me an idea to take it one step further.

I'm going to see if the local vinyl print shop can't print up a transfer so the gallon numbers can be affixed to the face of the gauge ... either as individual numbers all transferred at the same time to keep the spacing and alignment proper or as a single round piece of clear vinyl that will cover the entire gauge face with the numbers printed onto the vinyl.
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  #6  
Old 02-24-2017, 07:31 AM
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Piper J3 Piper J3 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by todehnal View Post
Great idea, and although I could not locate a 1/8" fiberglass rod, I did try other materials. The problem that I had was in getting a consistent reading due to the large filler tube allowing the bottom of the rod to drift to different locations on the bottom of the tank. How do you control that issue? Also, a source for your rod would help. Thanks in advance...........Tom
The "dip stick" has to be stiff and yet flexible enough to snake past the bend in the filler neck. A wooden dowel rod 1/8" diameter will work well. Use a lead pencil to make gallon marks. Gasoline will not wash off lead pencil mark. Round the bottom end of the dowel so it doesn't catch on any sharp edges. I marked my dip stick at same time I was calibrating Dynon fuel gage so my stick has marks every two gallons.
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  #7  
Old 02-24-2017, 08:18 AM
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WingedFrog WingedFrog is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by todehnal View Post
Great idea, and although I could not locate a 1/8" fiberglass rod, I did try other materials. The problem that I had was in getting a consistent reading due to the large filler tube allowing the bottom of the rod to drift to different locations on the bottom of the tank. How do you control that issue? Also, a source for your rod would help. Thanks in advance...........Tom
Tom, you should be able to find the fiberglass rod at Home Depot or Lowes (aviation department, of course!) . I got the idea from a security system installer who used it to thread wiring inside my house walls. The rod I bought was way too long and I cut it. You could do a second gauge with the left over! As for the routing, it seems consistent. I think that both the bend in the neck and the return fuel line which is somewhat in the way keep it always in the same place.
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  #8  
Old 02-24-2017, 08:39 AM
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WingedFrog WingedFrog is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Piper J3 View Post
The "dip stick" has to be stiff and yet flexible enough to snake past the bend in the filler neck. A wooden dowel rod 1/8" diameter will work well. Use a lead pencil to make gallon marks. Gasoline will not wash off lead pencil mark. Round the bottom end of the dowel so it doesn't catch on any sharp edges. I marked my dip stick at same time I was calibrating Dynon fuel gage so my stick has marks every two gallons.
Jim, I think the rod is too thin to have a usable marking printed on. The measuring tape I sacrificed is convenient because it has got a stop at the end against which I push the rod. When taking a measurement I look at the place where the fiberglass stops shining and squeeze the rod at this location while pushing it against the stop: a cinch! Note that dipstick and tape are easy to carry in the center channel of the RV-12: when travelling you will always know what's left in your tank (Disclaimer: preferably after landing though!)

For the history, I got this idea from my first car when in college: a 1957 "Deux Chevaux" Citroen. It featured a dipstick for checking the quantity of gas in the tank! With my RV-12 rod, I feel much younger now!
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Kit # 120395 N124BX
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Builder's Blog:http://vieilleburette.blogspot.com/
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  #9  
Old 02-25-2017, 10:25 AM
RFSchaller RFSchaller is offline
 
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I use a length of translucent brake line as a dip tube. I calibrated it at 5, 10 and 20 gal. The 10-20 mark is not linear because at about 19.8 gal you start filling the filler neck which causes a faster rise in level.

I posted the dimensions previously. I will remove my tank soon to do the bulkhead split, window replacement and bell crank bracket mods. When I refill I plan on adding a 15 gal mark.

The tube is nice because you can coil it into a 1 gallon plastic ziplock for travel, but it quickly straightens out and is stiff enough to give reliable readings.
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  #10  
Old 02-25-2017, 11:16 AM
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WingedFrog WingedFrog is offline
 
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[quote=RFSchaller;1153147] The 10-20 mark is not linear because at about 19.8 gal you start filling the filler neck which causes a faster rise in level [quote]

This is visible at the bottom and top of the range on my picture of the tape. This is due to the shape of the fuel tank not being a true cube. It is why it is important to do the marking/calibration while doing a progressive filling of the tank. For those who don't bother doing the calibration, I can give you the points in inches for the quantities shown on my picture (i.e. if you use the standard VANs fuel tank). The mark TT means top of tank, whatever you add from this point will fill the neck.
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Builder's Blog:http://vieilleburette.blogspot.com/
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