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  #1  
Old 02-18-2017, 09:54 AM
BillL BillL is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Central IL
Posts: 3,913
Default Tip-up Final Fit Tweaking

It was perfect . . . then something changed! This is repeated many times. While it likely may be futile in the real world of temperature changes, I persist
nevertheless.

I am not a multiple offender, nor an expert, nor bragging on results, merely sharing some findings. Why? For me the canopy was the most demoralizing, sleepless night, head aching, and mentally challenging part of the build.

The perimeter can be broken into zones, measurement variables, and changes that may affect one or more of the issues.

Measurement variables are gap and stagger, or offset. These can be applied to the full perimeter.

Zones

Center front between the hinges. Changes - offset hinge bushings. But - these also affect side alignment, front gap and stagger/offset.

Out board of hinges. Also affected by the hinge pivots, but can be bent at the hinge point to raise or lower. If needed then add spacers for the skin down by the longeron. Very limited options for change once the canopy is glassed in.

Side skirts. Gap can only yield nor adjustments, or outright replacement of the skirt. File if too tight, and replace if too high. Some adjustment may be dependent on the fit of the canopy to the roll bar. Offset or stagger. See photos below - if overhanging the fuse skin, then the inside of the rail can be stretched. Use the small flat rivet sets in a pneumatic squeezer and place the squeeze points near the edge spacing based on whether the it is an even bow or a "vee" shape with a point. Careful, 5-8 squeeze points will push out the rail by .030. Test and sneak up on it. What if you go too far - or it starts sunken from the fuse? Then use a bending bridge with a 2X4 and a block inside. Again sneak up on it. It is springy, so expect some spring back. Count the turns if needed. I did all the above on mine with the canopy bolted and glassed in.

Canopy match to rear window. With all the holes finalized this is limited to the flat portions. Sanding for gaps, and using some white nylon washers for spacers worked for me. They are nearly invisible from the outside.

Photos for entertainment.
Offset Bushings



Squeezer



Clamp



Washers



Note: I have no clue why the photos don't show. The method of sharing, permissions do not seem to have changed. I will try and fix.
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99% at the hangar now

Last edited by BillL : 02-19-2017 at 09:59 AM.
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  #2  
Old 02-18-2017, 09:57 AM
BillL BillL is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Central IL
Posts: 3,913
Default What did not work . .

This is to address what did not work for the offset/stagger of the front outboard skin match between the canopy and the F771 forward skin. I posted elsewhere, but will complete it here.

Stagger



A hammer tool was made to attempt to form-up the 771 skin to match the forward canopy skin. Picture below has the offset/stagger measurements. Increasing pressure was used on the rivet gun, but nothing moved permanently. Since all the offsets are in a curved area, the skin will have to stretch about .060" over the 80 degree arc to move up the skin by .040". The hope was that the tabs were depressed during riveting. That was not the case here.

Here is the forming tool. The polypropylene back lays flat against the sub panel.

Tool


More text and pictures to come on this. It is not going to be a tweak but some rework.
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99% at the hangar now

Last edited by BillL : 02-19-2017 at 10:00 AM. Reason: Google photos not sharing????
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  #3  
Old 02-18-2017, 09:00 PM
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Lemmingman Lemmingman is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: McKinney, TX
Posts: 657
Default

Hi Bill,
I cannot see any of your pictures.
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RV7 - Working on fuse, fuel, brakes etc...

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  #4  
Old 02-19-2017, 08:49 AM
dapierpont dapierpont is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Peoria, IL
Posts: 9
Default Keep fingers crossed

Hey Bill,

Keep your fingers crossed things don't change when you rivet the front top skin.
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  #5  
Old 02-19-2017, 09:03 AM
BillL BillL is offline
 
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Location: Central IL
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by dapierpont View Post
Hey Bill,

Keep your fingers crossed things don't change when you rivet the front top skin.
Andy, it DID change. It was a perfect fit until that front skin (F771) was riveted on. Then all this tweaking. I am going to make a new custom skin to fix the offset/stagger issue on the pilots side.

I just hope it all does not change again when the new skin in reinstalled. Hope is not much of a plan, and expect it to change again. But not much.
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  #6  
Old 02-19-2017, 09:04 AM
BillL BillL is offline
 
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Location: Central IL
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Default Pictures

I have shared the google album and rechecked it.

Can everyone see the pictures?

Can no one see the pictures?

Thanks,
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  #7  
Old 02-19-2017, 09:07 AM
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az_gila az_gila is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: 57AZ - NW Tucson area
Posts: 8,674
Exclamation

Quote:
Originally Posted by BillL View Post
I have shared the google album and rechecked it.

Can everyone see the pictures?

Can no one see the pictures?

Thanks,
No pics, just a grey "No Entry" symbol where each one should be...
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EAA Technical Counselor, Airframe Mechanic
RV-6A N61GX - finally flying
Grumman Tiger N12GA - flying
La Cholla Airpark (57AZ) Tucson AZ
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  #8  
Old 02-19-2017, 09:30 AM
Rupester Rupester is offline
 
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Location: Mahomet, Illinois
Posts: 2,140
Default

Sorry, Bill, but no pics.
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RV-9A Tip-up; IO-320 D2A
S. James cowl/plenum
(Dues paid thru Nov '17)
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  #9  
Old 02-19-2017, 10:01 AM
BillL BillL is offline
 
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Location: Central IL
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rupester View Post
Sorry, Bill, but no pics.
I edited the posts, reposted the pictures, and then resized. Hope it works now.
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  #10  
Old 02-19-2017, 10:15 AM
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az_gila az_gila is offline
 
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Location: 57AZ - NW Tucson area
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Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally Posted by BillL View Post
I edited the posts, reposted the pictures, and then resized. Hope it works now.
Yes... I can see the pics now.
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RV-6A N61GX - finally flying
Grumman Tiger N12GA - flying
La Cholla Airpark (57AZ) Tucson AZ
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