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  #11  
Old 02-13-2017, 02:30 PM
rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
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Location: Hubbard Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phantom30 View Post
Scott, I'm not climbing onto you or Van's(couldn't be happier with the support given)....just saying, there has to be more to this then "faulty installation errors". My reading into this points to poor pin/lug engagement....as the "heat problem" has been addressed.
I guess I will bow out of this thread now because you seem to be reading other things into what I am say, beyond what I am.
All I was doing was correcting where you incorrectly quoted me......
I have never come even close to saying that the majority of the failures are faulty installation errors. In fact I have said that I have no information available to me to be able to say what percentage of them have been.
What I have said is that quite a few of them have been. Nothing more... nothing less.

As for better instructions??? In some ways that implies that with detailed enough instructions a person could do brain surgery.
A bit sarcastic I realize but it makes my point.... that you cant write instructions that will be sufficient for 100 % of the people that decide to build an RV-12. there will always be some people that have a mechanical aptitude / back ground experience that will make them good candidates for getting some outside help with certain things (electrical for example).

Over, and out.
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  #12  
Old 02-13-2017, 04:41 PM
2johns 2johns is offline
 
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I tend to agree with Scott. The locking jaws on my regulator don't hold the plug all the way in. I ended up making provisions to safety wire mine so they would be fully inserted.
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  #13  
Old 02-13-2017, 05:14 PM
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Sam Buchanan Sam Buchanan is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2johns View Post
I tend to agree with Scott. The locking jaws on my regulator don't hold the plug all the way in. I ended up making provisions to safety wire mine so they would be fully inserted.
Wouldn't a non-conductive safety method be more appropriate at a connector?
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1999 RV-6
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  #14  
Old 02-13-2017, 05:16 PM
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Phantom30 Phantom30 is offline
 
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Location: Coeur d'Alene, ID/Casa Grande, AZ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2johns View Post
I tend to agree with Scott. The locking jaws on my regulator don't hold the plug all the way in. I ended up making provisions to safety wire mine so they would be fully inserted.
2johns,

Exactly my point....this issue has everyone (or a least thoughs who have had problems) scratching their heads. What the heck "is" the problem....and running off and installing JD or SH vr's.

When the problem "could be" as simple as throwing away the plug and installing wiring terminal ends that fully lock onto the spades of the vr. Don't know for sure, but it is sure looking more like this is a big contributor.....along with proper grounding.

Edit: My ownly reason of asking Scott to engage was not to throw rocks, but to maybe bring the "factory" into this issue because it is a concern to most of us (especially when departing on xcountry flights). And not everyone has the ability to work out a solution.
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Ric Dickison
307 (CAB) Phantom
Search and Destroy (Can
Tho RVN)
Distinguished Flying Cross Society Member
CH-47 & UH-1H "Driver"
Rotax 9 Series Service IRMT

RV-12 Kit#729 "N312RD" is now a full functioning fun machine!! Thanks Van for fulfilling my dream😎
2017 Dues Paid

Last edited by Phantom30 : 02-13-2017 at 05:27 PM.
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  #15  
Old 02-13-2017, 05:25 PM
Mich48041 Mich48041 is offline
 
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Location: Riley TWP MI
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Dual glass panels draw more electrical current which makes the regulator run hotter. Mounting the regulator with heat-conductive grease helps to conduct the heat away. I suggest that Van's add that hint to the plans.
As part of the annual inspection, I suggest that each female terminal of the regulator plug be tested by inserting a male spade connector. If the spade slides in easily, then the female terminal is not gripping tight enough. A loose connector generates heat which speeds up corrosion which generates more heat which, over time, leads to failure.
Some RV-12 owners have discarded the regulator plastic housing and connect each terminal individually.
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  #16  
Old 02-13-2017, 05:43 PM
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Phantom30 Phantom30 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mich48041 View Post
Dual glass panels draw more electrical current which makes the regulator run hotter. Mounting the regulator with heat-conductive grease helps to conduct the heat away. I suggest that Van's add that hint to the plans.
As part of the annual inspection, I suggest that each female terminal of the regulator plug be tested by inserting a male spade connector. If the spade slides in easily, then the female terminal is not gripping tight enough. A loose connector generates heat which speeds up corrosion which generates more heat which, over time, leads to failure.
Some RV-12 owners have discarded the regulator plastic housing and connect each terminal individually.
This will be inserted into my 100hr/annual check list...thanks Joe. Also, change out to individual connectors.
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Ric Dickison
307 (CAB) Phantom
Search and Destroy (Can
Tho RVN)
Distinguished Flying Cross Society Member
CH-47 & UH-1H "Driver"
Rotax 9 Series Service IRMT

RV-12 Kit#729 "N312RD" is now a full functioning fun machine!! Thanks Van for fulfilling my dream😎
2017 Dues Paid
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  #17  
Old 02-13-2017, 07:22 PM
olderthandirt olderthandirt is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Lopez Island, Wa.
Posts: 178
Default Connectors v/s VR failure

I have single connectors and have squeezed them as tight as can be and still get them on spades...it is not the connector problem..it is the Ducati Regulator...and construction quality control....when will everyone admit to this and either change VR or hold Ducati to warranty ...I can tell you dealing with Rotax on warranty is a joke...ask Ben Barron...Dick
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  #18  
Old 02-13-2017, 07:35 PM
rv7charlie rv7charlie is online now
 
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Subscribe to the Aeroelectric connection & peruse their archives.
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  #19  
Old 02-13-2017, 08:53 PM
BillL BillL is offline
 
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Location: Central IL
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Default I have no dog in this fight, but . . .

Quote:
Originally Posted by olderthandirt View Post
I have single connectors and have squeezed them as tight as can be and still get them on spades...it is not the connector problem..it is the Ducati Regulator...and construction quality control....when will everyone admit to this and either change VR or hold Ducati to warranty ...I can tell you dealing with Rotax on warranty is a joke...ask Ben Barron...Dick
It is not just the RV12 - a little searching turned up this: From an electrical engineer of 34 years of product development

"In our over 1000 hours in our CRUZ LSA, we have replaced our Rotax Specified Ducati AC to DC Rectifier/Regulator (R/R) box four times."

So - it is not just the RV12 - Vans is your agent to beat on Rotax, Vans can not fix this issue. Gather a group, talk to The Man, get some action.
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  #20  
Old 02-14-2017, 10:04 AM
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Alan Carroll Alan Carroll is offline
 
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Location: Madison, Wisconsin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rv7charlie View Post
I think that what you're reading is that a lead-acid battery is at full charge at 12.65 volts.

But if the engine is running and you see only 12.65 volts, that means the alternator isn't charging the battery, since it takes at least 1.5V above battery voltage to push a charge into the battery.

Charlie

I may be misreading the OP's statement; I took it to be saying that the battery was at 12.65 after flight (without the engine not turning). If that's the case then it doesn't appear the battery is actually discharging. If he means its reading 12.65 with the alternator operating then yes, something's broken.
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