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  #11  
Old 01-30-2017, 12:22 PM
nilberg nilberg is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Katy, TX
Posts: 111
Default Tip-up soon to be started

I am just about to start the canopy work myself, so this thread is perfectly timed.
I have some additional questions:

1. Which ones if the pop rivets is most suitable, there is a bunch of them at the McMasterCarar site

2. How much of the subpanel and ribs is it recommended to rivet for best fit results.

3. I have the fuselage still on rotisserie. Would the canopy fitting be ok or would it be better to have it on a more stable support system.
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  #12  
Old 01-30-2017, 02:45 PM
rv7charlie rv7charlie is online now
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Pocahontas MS
Posts: 2,210
Default

Someone mentioned that the skin(s) move when you rivet. They do. Part of the reason *can* be that the 'ears' get bent farther down, but another reason is that the dimples rarely nest perfectly in 'dry' assembly, especially in highly curved areas like that. If you're really anal about it but don't want to rivet now (for good reason), You can nest the dimples by putting a female dimple die in a bucking bar (scrap steel works fine for this) and the male in a die holder in the gun. A very light shot will nest/align the dimples, & then the cleco can more easily hold the stack without gaps. Really time consuming to do, though.

You'll eventually need to tip the frame more than a fraction of an inch, which means that clecos can't stay in that line where it meets the forward skin. It will likely hit even if you cleco from inside. I used some tiny flat head metric screws/nuts (almost identical diameter to -3 rivets) across the top in that area to secure the skin to the structure. They will pull the skin down better than clecos, too.

Charlie
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  #13  
Old 01-31-2017, 08:01 AM
Fast Fred Fast Fred is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Wallingford ct
Posts: 1
Default tip up blues

i built my tipup per planes i never installed the nitrogen assist cyls till it was all done and riveted and all. it opened and fit perfectly first time. those cyls bend and twist things. my two cents worth.
Fred
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  #14  
Old 01-31-2017, 09:47 AM
Rupester Rupester is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Mahomet, Illinois
Posts: 2,140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nilberg View Post
I am just about to start the canopy work myself, so this thread is perfectly timed.
I have some additional questions:

1. Which ones if the pop rivets is most suitable, there is a bunch of them at the McMasterCarar site.
I think the only ones that are 3/32 and all-aluminum are the McMaster-Carr 97447A105, at $9 for a box of 250. I'll double check that next time I'm at my hangar. (maybe today, if we finally get decent flying weather! )
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Terry Ruprecht
RV-9A Tip-up; IO-320 D2A
S. James cowl/plenum
(Dues paid thru Nov '17)
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  #15  
Old 02-01-2017, 05:04 PM
Rupester Rupester is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Mahomet, Illinois
Posts: 2,140
Default All aluminum pop rivets

Got to the hangar today ... there is no McMaster-Carr number on the box; the only reference number is the one by Pop, the mfgr .... AD32ABS201, all aluminum pop rivets, domed, .032 - .125 grip range. I think they must be the McMaster number i mentioned earlier.... it's the only ones that match the description.
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Terry Ruprecht
RV-9A Tip-up; IO-320 D2A
S. James cowl/plenum
(Dues paid thru Nov '17)
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  #16  
Old 02-01-2017, 10:32 PM
nilberg nilberg is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Katy, TX
Posts: 111
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Thanks.
They are more or less the same, just tiny differences. Grainger has them as well (over priced). Consider their temporary use, they are perfectly fit for purpose.
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  #17  
Old 02-02-2017, 05:50 PM
goldbar goldbar is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: slc, UT
Posts: 29
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So indeed, based on this image, the F-771 and the F-702 are not flush right in the center, they once were, or so I thought.



Anyway, with the center splice on the frame (WD-716) in place (riveted) that leaves shims, to be certain 702 comes up and is flush with the 771? Then rivet the 771 with the aluminum rivets before wrestling the sides of the F-702 to be flush with the fuselage?
seem reasonable?
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  #18  
Old 02-02-2017, 06:15 PM
BillL BillL is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Central IL
Posts: 3,938
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goldbar View Post
So indeed, based on this image, the F-771 and the F-702 are not flush right in the center, they once were, or so I thought.

Anyway, with the center splice on the frame (WD-716) in place (riveted) that leaves shims, to be certain 702 comes up and is flush with the 771? Then rivet the 771 with the aluminum rivets before wrestling the sides of the F-702 to be flush with the fuselage?
seem reasonable?
I had to use these. You are at the stage now to get that splice and the pivots right. The errors will accumulate in this frame.

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99% at the hangar now

Last edited by BillL : 02-02-2017 at 06:17 PM.
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  #19  
Old 02-02-2017, 07:00 PM
Rupester Rupester is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Mahomet, Illinois
Posts: 2,140
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I had to shim up the center of the fwd canopy skin to eliminate the height discrepancy shown in the above pic. IIRC, I shimmed at least .030 in the center, and then tapered the shim off to the sides. There were no shims in the curved sides; they stuck up plenty high as it was. All shimming was in the center area of the fwd canopy skin.
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Terry Ruprecht
RV-9A Tip-up; IO-320 D2A
S. James cowl/plenum
(Dues paid thru Nov '17)
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  #20  
Old 02-03-2017, 11:04 AM
goldbar goldbar is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: slc, UT
Posts: 29
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Bill this is feeling a bit like magic to get the fit correct when each time parts are removed and put back causes a fit change. When you made these bushings, were you correcting the 771 and 702 "level" and did you just take the difference and make that the offset?
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