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  #31  
Old 03-11-2017, 09:04 AM
DaleB's Avatar
DaleB DaleB is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Omaha, NE (KMLE)
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Here and here. Mount the VR with spacers underneath to get it up off the firewall and allow air circulation all around. So you'll be depending mostly upon convective cooling from increased air flow, rather than conductive cooling from contact with the firewall. I've been pondering this approach. It seems reasonable, given that the firewall is pretty thin stainless and no matter what you do, the actual contact area between the regulator and the firewall is petty small. Even with the Silent Hektik regulator, a beautifully machined piece by the way, only two small mounting pads would actually contact the firewall. I can't see where exposing the bottom of the regulator to air flow would hurt, unless the ambient temperature there is pretty high (which it may be, I haven't measured it).

A slightly more perfect solution would be to cut a couple of spacers matching the outline of the portions of the housing that would contact the firewall, so you maximize the heat conduction while providing some exposure to air flow as well. It would be a little more substantial mechanically as well. Just thinking "out loud" here. I plan to add a length of duct to direct some cool air directly to the regulator, similar to the newer Van's instructions.
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RV-12 # 222 N980KM "Screamin' Canary" (bought flying)
Fisher Celebrity (under construction)
Previous RV-7 project (sold)
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  #32  
Old 03-11-2017, 03:00 PM
BigJohn BigJohn is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Gloversville, NY
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Default Just another data point and comments

The other day while flying, I stuck my hand up under the shelf where the VR is mounted in the "new" location, with heat transfer paste between the back of the unit and the aluminum structure. The VR is my second Ducati, the first one having bit the dust in the original location. All the electric and electronic goodies were turned on so as to impose a maximum electrical load. The VR was only pleasantly warm, meaning I could hold my hand there all day without discomfort. In fact, it felt quite nice!

I have followed the multitude of threads on this topic, and it seems there are two main theories as to causes of failure with these units, those being either heat or vibration. Considering the above, I believe if this unit fails it is NOT because of excessive heat. At present, with a hundred or so hours on this Ducati, my battery is being charged at 13.9 volts, even with a maximum load on the alternator.
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  #33  
Old 03-19-2017, 09:40 PM
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DaleB DaleB is offline
 
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Location: Omaha, NE (KMLE)
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I got my new Silent Hektik regulator installed today. I had to spend some time enlarging the mounting holes. As stated in the specs on the German web page, the voltage starts out at 12.8 and goes up every 10-15 minutes ending up (35 minutes later) at 14.2.

I flew just under an hour with it. For most of the flight I noticed that the "static-y" whine in my headset was gone. It came back for a few minutes but I can't really say whether it's noise from the regulator or something else. I haven't installed the new capacitor yet. I really don't remember when that started, so I can't say if it's a power supply noise issue or the intercom (a Flightcom 403).

It sure was nice, though, not seeing the voltage in the yellow after the first half hour or so. It would be nice to disable the feature (intended to protect lithium batteries) so it would put out 14.2 Volts from the start. But, if this thing proves to be as stable and reliable as its reputation (not to mention its price) indicate, I'll be satisfied.
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Omaha, NE
RV-12 # 222 N980KM "Screamin' Canary" (bought flying)
Fisher Celebrity (under construction)
Previous RV-7 project (sold)
-=VAF=- 2017 dues paid
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  #34  
Old 03-20-2017, 01:08 AM
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Gagarin737 Gagarin737 is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Netherlands
Posts: 602
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I also just installed the Silent Hektik (keep the Ducati as spare).
Enlarged the holes with a 7mm drill.
Drilled holes for the cooling shroud through two fins (otherwise the rivets were hard to install).
Grinded two washers to make them fit better.
Shaved a bit of aluminum away with the Dremel to have clearance for the AN4 bolts.
Grinded a slot in the AN4 bolts so a flat screwdriver will fit.
Used the same location and cooling. Install time approximately 1 hour.



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Last edited by Gagarin737 : 03-20-2017 at 06:42 AM.
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  #35  
Old 03-20-2017, 06:11 AM
BigJohn BigJohn is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Gloversville, NY
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Default Source?

For you folks that have installed the SK units - where did you get them? I'm contemplating getting one just to make a preemptive strike.
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RV-12 N37JP 120176 Flying since 2012.
VAF paid through 10/2017. Best bargain in town.
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