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  #11  
Old 11-07-2016, 05:11 PM
rocketman1988 rocketman1988 is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Sunman, IN
Posts: 637
Default Door

I left the overall surface alone, i.e. I did not fill the door channel in to make it flat. I am happy with how it turned out. It looks good but more importantly seals really well...
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Aerospace Engineer '88

RV-10
Structure - 90% Done
Cabin Top - Aaarrghhh...
Doors - Done
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  #12  
Old 11-07-2016, 05:23 PM
AviatorJ AviatorJ is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Oklahoma City
Posts: 477
Default

Thanks, will just even put the rise and then build it up on the back to a 1/4". Will try the method you talked about with filling in a piece of the seal and taping it to the edge. Can I reuse the same piece over and over? My thoug is do one side at a time.... will take 8 days, but that's okay.
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  #13  
Old 11-07-2016, 08:55 PM
rocketman1988 rocketman1988 is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Sunman, IN
Posts: 637
Default seal

I was not able to reuse the seal...when you pull it off, it deforms the inner metals strips a bunch. Might be possible to bend them back but I did not try it.

A word of caution. When you put the seal on, you will go into a corner then straight and into another corner. Be careful when you get to the subsequent corners...you will push the seal into the second corner only to find that it pulled the first corner out. When I did mine, I did the corners separately to prevent this. Once you have a uniform edge, it is not an issue...
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Bob
Aerospace Engineer '88

RV-10
Structure - 90% Done
Cabin Top - Aaarrghhh...
Doors - Done
On Gear
290 HP Barrett Hung

Dues Paid 2016,...Thanks DR+
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  #14  
Old 11-08-2016, 07:33 AM
AviatorJ AviatorJ is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Oklahoma City
Posts: 477
Default

Okay thanks. I have 50' of the stuff and I remember ordering that quantity per someones build log. Maybe that's why, so you could use some to form the lips, because I measured last night and each door opening takes about 12'... so roughly 24' leaving me 26' to waste....
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  #15  
Old 03-02-2017, 05:07 AM
Carlos Trigo Carlos Trigo is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Cascais - Portugal
Posts: 18
Default Lip thickness

Guys

Having opted by using the McMaster Carr seal, I already cut the lip (aka rain gutter flange) of the cabin top door openings, which left a variable thickness of this lip.
In the bottom lip, and most of both sides' lip, the thickness is around 3/16", which is right on for the seal I ordered.
But the upper lip, near the hinges, and especially in the corners, the lip thickness is way bigger, almost 1/2" thick...!
I suppose I have to file and/or sand the inner surface of the cabin top, to obtain the 3/16" desired uniform thickness, but I wanted the hear from you guys, if you did the same, or is there another way to skin this cat.

Thanks
Carlos
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  #16  
Old 03-02-2017, 05:50 AM
rleffler's Avatar
rleffler rleffler is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Delaware, OH (KDLZ)
Posts: 3,542
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Carlos Trigo View Post
Guys

Having opted by using the McMaster Carr seal, I already cut the lip (aka rain gutter flange) of the cabin top door openings, which left a variable thickness of this lip.
In the bottom lip, and most of both sides' lip, the thickness is around 3/16", which is right on for the seal I ordered.
But the upper lip, near the hinges, and especially in the corners, the lip thickness is way bigger, almost 1/2" thick...!
I suppose I have to file and/or sand the inner surface of the cabin top, to obtain the 3/16" desired uniform thickness, but I wanted the hear from you guys, if you did the same, or is there another way to skin this cat.

Thanks
Carlos
Typically the lip is undersized after cutting. Most folks will build back up with a few layers of glass until the desired thickness is reached.

Having a 1/2" think edge is a red flag to me. I've not heard of that before. The thickest dimension on mine was about 1/4". Without seeing a picture, I would be concerned about how far back you cut. Otherwise Vans has done something new to the cabin cover mold.

Ivan Kristensen has a great video on his Phanfare site that shows how to cut and the respective measurements. I don't have a link handy, but search should find it for you. I know I've posted it several times in the past.

A photo would help to all others to render better advice.
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  #17  
Old 03-02-2017, 08:42 AM
rocketman1988 rocketman1988 is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Sunman, IN
Posts: 637
Default Mine

I followed Ivan's method and there were one or two small areas that were almost 3/8" thick...
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Bob
Aerospace Engineer '88

RV-10
Structure - 90% Done
Cabin Top - Aaarrghhh...
Doors - Done
On Gear
290 HP Barrett Hung

Dues Paid 2016,...Thanks DR+
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  #18  
Old 03-02-2017, 09:35 AM
Carlos Trigo Carlos Trigo is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Cascais - Portugal
Posts: 18
Default Lip thickness

Having a 1/2" think edge is a red flag to me. I've not heard of that before. The thickest dimension on mine was about 1/4". Without seeing a picture, I would be concerned about how far back you cut. Otherwise Vans has done something new to the cabin cover mold.

...........

A photo would help to all others to render better advice.[/quote]

How do I insert a photo?
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  #19  
Old 03-02-2017, 09:38 AM
Carlos Trigo Carlos Trigo is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Cascais - Portugal
Posts: 18
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rleffler View Post
Having a 1/2" think edge is a red flag to me. I've not heard of that before. The thickest dimension on mine was about 1/4". Without seeing a picture, I would be concerned about how far back you cut. Otherwise Vans has done something new to the cabin cover mold.

..........

A photo would help to all others to render better advice.
How do I insert a photo?

Carlos
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  #20  
Old 03-02-2017, 09:38 AM
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Bluelabel Bluelabel is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: San Diego, Ca
Posts: 367
Default

Mine was pretty thick in the corners. I had to sand the heck out of it.
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