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  #101  
Old 12-04-2016, 10:13 AM
Lemmingman's Avatar
Lemmingman Lemmingman is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: McKinney, TX
Posts: 637
Default Installing IO-360? Dont touch that firewall!

When you get to the point of drilling holes through your firewall you want to get a copy of OP32 which is an optional plans page for RV7. The default instructions will have you drill holes for a fuel pump and gascolator for a carbureted engine. The holes for the injected fuel system are in a different spot. The transducer manifold (VA168) also has some rivet holes in F-745 that are going to modified and may be easier while you're working on that forward structure. OP32 is available on the plans CD if you've got that. Otherwise, you may want to talk to Vans.
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Gil Brice
McKinney, TX EAA-1246
RV7 - Working on fuse, fuel, brakes etc...

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Last edited by Lemmingman : 12-04-2016 at 10:16 AM.
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  #102  
Old 01-07-2017, 02:20 AM
RV7ForMe RV7ForMe is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Europe
Posts: 210
Default R DWG 7, R-710 Horn Brace Detail View

Be very careful when trimming to the middle of the whole like the plans tell you. Very likely going to cause an Edge distance issue. I would advice to cut very conservative here to the top of the whole and only trim until it fits even if it leaves a "half whole" in the center.

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  #103  
Old 01-07-2017, 07:51 AM
BillL BillL is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Central IL
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RV7ForMe View Post
Be very careful when trimming to the middle of the whole like the plans tell you. Very likely going to cause an Edge distance issue. I would advice to cut very conservative here to the top of the whole and only trim until it fits even if it leaves a "half whole" in the center.

Newbies, print and attach this to your instructions. I learned not to trust the drawings from this.
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  #104  
Old 02-19-2017, 04:33 PM
RV7ForMe RV7ForMe is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Europe
Posts: 210
Default R DWG 7, Rudder Counterbalance weight led

Just wanted to say this because I didn't know / think about it while I was trying to make my rudder counterbalance weight fit. I ended up cutting some material off, but another member here pointed out that the led is really soft and may just be reshaped with anything round without loosing material. I here is an example using a key.



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  #105  
Old 02-22-2017, 07:11 PM
RV74ME RV74ME is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Auburn, AL
Posts: 68
Default Riveting leading edge to spar solution

On the RV-7, the plans call for riveting the leading edge to the spar AFTER the main ribs have been riveted to both spars. The problem is, these AN470 rivets are difficult to set because the head is too close to the web of the main rib...even using an offset set. From what I have gathered, most folks get around this by using blind rivets (Van's approved method).

I figured out a much better/easier way to do it without having to use blind rivets. Here's what we did today on my second wing...it was so easy, and it turned out perfect!!:

1. When the instructions tell you to rivet the main ribs to both spars, you can do so....EXCEPT for the ones directly behind/underneath the leading edge. Just cleco these to the main spar (6 of them). It's ok to rivet them all to the rear spar

2. After building the leading edge and ready to install, place it on the spar and cleco in place. Start at one end of the leading edge and un-cleco the main rib directly below it. Bend it out of the way enough to give yourself room for the rivet gun. Rivet the leading edge rib to the main spar. When you are done, cleco the main rib back in place and move to the next leading edge rib. Repeat this until all 6 leading edge ribs are riveted to the main spar.

3. Now you can now go back and rivet the 6 outboard main ribs to the main spar. You will probably have to use the offset, but they are easily reachable.

Hope this helps.
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N922WT (reserved)
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RV-7 slow build
Tail kit COMPLETE
Wing kit COMPLETE
Fuselage kit IN PROGRESS
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  #106  
Old 03-08-2017, 03:46 PM
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wirejock wirejock is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 2,594
Default Beringer brake system

This one is for anyone installing the Beringer brake system.
The brake lines are braided. Fittings are straight 45 degree flare and banjo style. Banjo fittings have a slight angle which comes in handy.the system comes with Master cylinders, ALIR (anti-lock) valve and parking garage brake. I won't get into how or where things should be mounted. Beringer does not provide a parking brake mount. The reservoirs have a small flange for mounting. This is intended as tips for the install.
The ALIR is quite long and if mounted with the included mount, is very close to the firewall recess. Check before installing it. I chose to leave it out and save two lines, some complexity and extra weight. 12 ounces.
The master cylinders are adjustable. Install the extenders then screw the rod ends all the way in. I used five turns out on either end. There's plenty left to adjust the pedal location. Final hole in the brake pedals was 3/4" from the bottom. I drilled one with a pilot hole then used it to match drill the others, then enlarged to final dimension. The springs get close so use two washers in between pedal and rod bearing. It's shown on the RV10 install.
Here's a tip on making the lines.
Wrap the line with a piece of Gorilla tape. It helps control the fraying. Cut the end clean with a pair of heavy pliers like Kleins. Remove the tape. Carefully slip the threaded ferrule over the line. Use a small screwdriver to spread the braid open in a cone shape about 1/4" back. Don't unbraid it. Just open it enough to get the "olive" on the tube. Place the olive on the inner tube and press against a hard surface till it bottoms. Use a tiny probe to feel the inner tube. It should be up against the top of the olive. Use the cutters to snip the excess braid back maybe 1/32" or so. It helps later. Slide the ferrule up. Lube the threads of the banjo. Insert and screw it in hand tight. Clamp it between wood blocks in a vice and use tubing wrench to tighten couple turns. Finish off with the torque wrench. Note the tubing rotates. This is a big deal.
To complete the line, install the partial line. The angle is important and the tubing rotates so think this through. Place the other banjo in the fitting where the opposite end will be installed and get a good measurement for the line. Wrap a piece of tape, mark the cut line and the direction of the banjo angle . Remove the line. Cut the line.
Repeat the steps to install the second fitting but don't torque it. You only get one shot at it.
Install the line and triple check the fittings are oriented correct. Mark the first end so you can't accidently torque it again and mess up the orientation. Mark the second end carefully. Move to the vice and torque while watching the mark. Stop short and reinstall it. Back to the vice for final torque and a little prayer it ends up perfect. Repeat another six or eight times for the other lines.
I chose to go with one piece lines from the parking brake to the calipers so I snaked the line in and cut it a foot or two long then reinstalled it. The last two fittings at the caliper end will have to be done on the plane. Best of luck.
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Estes Park, CO
http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 12/01/2016. Plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (1,800+ hours)
HS SB, empennage, tanks, wings, fuse, working finishing kit
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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  #107  
Old 03-14-2017, 04:53 PM
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wirejock wirejock is offline
 
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Location: Estes Park, CO
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Default Electric Aileron Trim

If you're planning to install the Electric Aileron Trim system, pull the destructions before installing nutplates for the floors, closing up floors or assembling control columns. There's two nutplates you don't need it. The center two ribs. The trim system mount gets the two nutplates. The servo is difficult to drill and mount but not to bad with floors removed. Finally, there's two clips that get bolted to the control columns so save yourself, tearing them apart like I did just to add those two little clips.
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Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 12/01/2016. Plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (1,800+ hours)
HS SB, empennage, tanks, wings, fuse, working finishing kit
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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  #108  
Old 03-15-2017, 08:05 AM
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Raymo Raymo is online now
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Richmond Hill, GA (KLHW)
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Default

Larry,

I remember doing the same about a year ago. I'm not sure roll trim is worth the time it takes to assemble and install (2-3 days) but it's there now!
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Ray
RV-7A - Slider - N495KL - First flt 27 Jan 17
O-360-A4M w/ AFP FM-150 FI, 1 PMag, Vetterman Trombone Exh, SkyTech starter, PlanePower Alt, Catto 3 blade NLE, FlightLines Interior
All lines by TSFlightLines (AKA Hoser)
NSDQ

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  #109  
Old 03-30-2017, 10:59 AM
Iluke Iluke is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Hope Valley, Rhode Island
Posts: 91
Default Firewall DWG 19

This one is not really a gotcha as much as just something I wish I'd been aware of at the time. Would have saved time and a small bit of frustration at having to un-do and re-do work

When working on your firewall at the start of your fuselage kit, DWG 19 is the reference. (Page 8-1 in the manual). If you follow it in detail, you'll end up setting several rivets that you will later have to come back and drill out. Also, there are a couple of rivets you'll need to add later where you'd like to be able to dimple the firewall but won't be able to. Instead you'll have to countersink.

Again, not a show-stopper, but something where a little hears-up would have been very nice.

Which rivets? Those for attaching the battery box, the two relays and the brake reservoir. Here's where to look for specifics:

See either DWG 31 or 31A (tail/nose dragger depending) for the battery mount. It makes sense to go ahead and install the nutplates when you are riveting the firewall.

See DWG 36 or 36A for the brake reservoir.

See OP 32 if you are planning a fuel injected engine. It requires a different doubles in a different location that the carb setup shown on DWG 19. (Mentioned by a previous poster but I thought I'd include it here.)

Hope this helps..
-Ivan
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RV-7 SB
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  #110  
Old 03-30-2017, 12:39 PM
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Raymo Raymo is online now
 
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Location: Richmond Hill, GA (KLHW)
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Iluke View Post
See DWG 36 or 36A for the brake reservoir.

See OP 32 if you are planning a fuel injected engine. It requires a different doubles in a different location that the carb setup shown on DWG 19. (Mentioned by a previous poster but I thought I'd include it here.)

Hope this helps..
-Ivan
If installing the fuel pump/filter on the inside, just forward of the selector valve, the firewall doubler won't be needed as depicted in OP 32.

For the brake reservoir, I only drilled out one existing rivet, if I recall. I don't think the spacing of the reservoir holes is the same as the rivet spacing.
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RV-7A - Slider - N495KL - First flt 27 Jan 17
O-360-A4M w/ AFP FM-150 FI, 1 PMag, Vetterman Trombone Exh, SkyTech starter, PlanePower Alt, Catto 3 blade NLE, FlightLines Interior
All lines by TSFlightLines (AKA Hoser)
NSDQ

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Last edited by Raymo : 03-30-2017 at 01:18 PM. Reason: error correction
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