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  #1  
Old 06-03-2014, 09:58 AM
Ex Bonanza Bucko Ex Bonanza Bucko is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: San Diego, California
Posts: 291
Default Purge engine at oil change

I will have a new S-LSA RV12 in a couple of weeks. I will burn 100LL and use Decalin. I will change oil every 30 hours. But I can't find a step by step procedure for purging the oil from the engine to get all the lead out.

Can you give me that?

Thanks,
EBB
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Old 06-03-2014, 11:26 AM
RFSchaller RFSchaller is offline
 
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Location: Phoenix, AZ
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Before you drain the tank pull the prop through until you hear the gurgle noise indicating the oil has been returned to the tank. Then you'll just have what's left in the oil lines and a small residual in the filter and engine. If you also drain the lines you'll have to do the system purge to refill them. Check your ROTAX SBs because I think 25 Hrs is the recommended oil change frequency with 100 LL.
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Old 06-03-2014, 03:30 PM
BigJohn BigJohn is offline
 
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See latest Line Maintenance Manual page listed below. Oil change interval has been upped to 50 hours when using 100LL.

Effectivity: 912 Series Edition 3 / Rev. 1
05-20-00
page 16 January 01/2013
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  #4  
Old 06-03-2014, 05:01 PM
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WingedFrog WingedFrog is offline
 
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Location: Raleigh, NC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigJohn View Post
See latest Line Maintenance Manual page listed below. Oil change interval has been upped to 50 hours when using 100LL.

Effectivity: 912 Series Edition 3 / Rev. 1
05-20-00
page 16 January 01/2013
Thank you John, this is an example of what VAF is about: helping others with information that otherwise might be overlooked.
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  #5  
Old 06-03-2014, 09:20 PM
roger lee roger lee is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Tucson, AZ
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If you use 100LL you can't purge the lead out. You can remove the tank and clean the bottom out and drain the oil, but that's it.

The Rotax SI912-016R6 says 50 hrs at the latest, but still recommends 25 hr. changes when using mainly 100LL. Sec. 3.3. The 25 hr. change is under notes.
After doing a pre-buy inspection today on a Remos with 700 hrs. that already had a top end done on Cyl. #2 and seeing all the lead on the tops of all pistons and in the oil tank I would stick to 25 hr. changes and make sure I use a fuel additive like Decalin as a lead scavenger. It isn't a cure all, but does help. For me tossing in a couple extra oil changes is way cheaper than paying the big bucks to send in heads to have lead removed and the gearbox has to go in at 600 hrs. verse 1000 hrs. to get the lead out of the clutch. If you can stay away from 100LL and use 91 oct. you will be far better off with future maint. and your pocketbook will thank you.

http://legacy.rotaxowner.com/si_tb_i...i912i001r1.pdf
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Last edited by roger lee : 06-03-2014 at 09:25 PM.
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  #6  
Old 06-03-2014, 09:52 PM
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Jetguy Jetguy is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigJohn View Post
See latest Line Maintenance Manual page listed below. Oil change interval has been upped to 50 hours when using 100LL.

Effectivity: 912 Series Edition 3 / Rev. 1
05-20-00
page 16 January 01/2013
Big John I trump you with page 4 September 2013

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Last edited by Jetguy : 06-03-2014 at 10:43 PM.
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  #7  
Old 06-04-2014, 04:40 AM
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Geico266 Geico266 is offline
 
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If you own a Rotax 912 you should be running unleaded mogas.
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  #8  
Old 06-04-2014, 07:25 AM
Ex Bonanza Bucko Ex Bonanza Bucko is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: San Diego, California
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Default procedure for purging oil system

What I'm after is the procedure for purging the oil system on my 912ULS.

The Line Maintenance manual says in Paragraph 11.7 FLUSHING THE OIL CIRCUIT that the procedure is as follows:

1.Clean the oil tank (requires removing it an opening the oil system thus inducing air and thus requiring an oil system purge)
2.Install temporary oil lines for flushing. They must be fitted so that the oil cooler is not connected. The return line is routed to a separate, clean receptacle and not back to the oil tank.
3.Fill the oil tank with approx. 3L of engine oil
4.THE OIL LEVEL IN THE TANK MUST NOT DROP BELOW THE END OF THE SUCTION PIPE. OTHER WISE AIR WILL BE SUCKED IN
5.Turn the engine by hand in the direction of engine rotation to return the oil from the oil tank into the engine and into the collection container. The procedure is complete when no more contamination is observed.
6.Reinstall the oil lines.

My question about this is that this procedure seems to say that fresh oil must be added to the oil tank while the prop is turned until all the contamination is pumped into the tank. I wonder if anyone has done this and if that person can tell me how much oil must be added because it sounds like that might a lot of oil.

I would also like to know how much lead sludge I can expect to get out of the oil tank after 25 hours of operation on 100LL.

Thanks,
EBB

Last edited by Ex Bonanza Bucko : 06-04-2014 at 07:41 AM. Reason: incomplete post
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  #9  
Old 11-15-2015, 08:35 AM
morsesc morsesc is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Columbia SC
Posts: 62
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I have a question about the possibility of air entering the oil lines. So...you do a oil change, add 3 gts. of oil to the canister, pull the top 4 plugs, start rotating the prop to get oil oil pressure. My question is: since oil can't be pumped back to the canister (because the plugs are pulled/no compression) can the canister get depleted of oil and can air then enter the system?

Rick.
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  #10  
Old 11-15-2015, 02:43 PM
rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
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Location: Hubbard Oregon
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It would be possible if you turned the engine long enough, but you will get oil pressure way before the tank was emptied (and if doing it by hand, your arm would probably fall off first).
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