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  #51  
Old 03-09-2017, 03:21 AM
rv8gibbo rv8gibbo is offline
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Maitland, Australia
Posts: 61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AAflyer View Post
My buddies and I made a group order of these expensive bolts, thinking it was the "smart way to go". They can be installed like blind rivets; you only need access to one side of the material. Seemed too good to be true...and it was. We've discovered,...now that we have the bolts in hand, that they do not fit through the holes! They are about 6/1000 too big.
To ream, or not to ream...that is the question.
Mine where tight but it was because of the build up of paint when I sprayed the inside, I used a reamer by hand and the holes where free without too much effort and a slight bit of persuasion.
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  #52  
Old 03-09-2017, 01:33 PM
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AAflyer AAflyer is offline
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Belle Mead, New Jersey
Posts: 262
Default Are we talking about the same bolts?

Quote:
Originally Posted by rv8gibbo View Post
Mine where tight but it was because of the build up of paint when I sprayed the inside, I used a reamer by hand and the holes where free without too much effort and a slight bit of persuasion.
Would you please confirm you used the VISULOK blind bolts from Monoram Aerospace?
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  #53  
Old 03-09-2017, 03:41 PM
Capfo Capfo is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Montgomery, Tx
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The 8 bolts towards the middle of the box are reasonably simple to replace. Use a torch and some cheap wrenches and you can fashion one that will reach them without a great deal of effort. I have replaced them on several aircraft now and found that it is not as difficult as I first thought.

The four outer bolts require a bit more effort. The SB recommends cutting a hole up to 1" inboard of the nut plate for the seat ramp. I have found that cutting the hole outboard of the nut plate gives better access. I have not found it necessary to cut a hole in the belly skin as recommended in the SB. Access to ream the bolt holes would be even more difficult.
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Last edited by Capfo : 03-09-2017 at 03:45 PM.
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  #54  
Old 03-13-2017, 05:08 PM
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RV8JD RV8JD is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 274
Default Rivets

I have an RV-8 QB (S/N 80936) and also found rivets in the spar center section carry-thru. Scott M. (“rvbuilder2002”) responded to an email from me with the explanation. I’m posting his response (with permission) since it’s the first time I’ve seen an explanation for rivets being in those locations on certain kits (and as turns out, early pre-8A kits).
“Hi Carl,

The 12 bolt holes are necessary when the main spar center section is used to build an RV-8A (tri gear).
Prior to the introduction of the RV-8A, all center sections were fully riveted. Yours must be an earlier kit.
Yes, it is fine with rivets in the 12 specified holes.

Scott McDaniels
Van's Aircraft
14401 Keil Rd
Aurora, Oregon 97002”

I appreciate Scott's reply and explanation.
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Last edited by RV8JD : 03-13-2017 at 05:19 PM.
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  #55  
Old 03-16-2017, 09:29 AM
Jeff Hagg Jeff Hagg is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Indpls. IN
Posts: 28
Default Special Wrench

Quote:
Originally Posted by RV8JD View Post
Service Bulletin 16-12-16

Date Released: December 16, 2016

Subject: RV-8QB Missing Center Section Bolts

Time of Compliance: Before further flight

http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/sb16-12-16.pdf
I completed the SB 16-12-16 last weekend and here is my recommendations.
Drill the 3/4 to 1" hole as documented in the SB, do not drill the bottom holes, "not necessary". I would then drill 4 small 3/8 holes above the upper nut locations, these are for viewing. You will need to make special wrenches. Weld a reduced height 7/16 socket on to a rod about 18", this will help you pick up the 2 lower outer nut/bolts. You will also need to make a left and right 90 degree tool to attach the upper nuts. Fish these through the 1" holes You may need to make two sets of varied length. Do not try to add washers to the inside nuts, the length of the bolts will not allow you to add these washers and still have 1 1/2 thread showing passed the nut. I will attach photos after I figure out how to. Good luck, this was not an easy task
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  #56  
Old Yesterday, 07:28 AM
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goatflieg goatflieg is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Clarkston, MI
Posts: 239
Default Final double-check before torquing bolts

My RV-8QB fuselage is serial #83507; received 2/17. The twelve bolts were missing from the forward center section, and today I started work on getting them in place. Inserting the bolts fore-to-aft was easy, but trying to get the washers and nuts on the bolts with the access limited by the assembled center section seemed a nightmare. I also do not want to drill the 1" access holes if I can avoid it. It was easier to guide the bolts in from the back side using a flashlight and magnetic stick, and get the nuts and washers on the bolts from the front. Now all twelve bolts, nuts and washers are in place and ready for tightening and final torque. Before I do, I will probably call Van's tomorrow and double check to make sure installing the bolts backwards won't cause a problem. I know from reading this thread that other builders have done it this way, and I already know what I'll do to modify tools to get the job done. It will also be easier to mark the nuts with torque paint when finished. But I thought I'd check here: can anyone think of a reason why I shouldn't do it this way? As far as I can tell, the only "rule" I'm breaking is the traditional "insert bolts from fore to aft". Are there any other clearance issues involved in having the nuts on the front outside of the center section?
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Last edited by goatflieg : Yesterday at 08:11 PM.
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