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  #11  
Old 03-01-2017, 10:41 PM
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RV7A Flyer RV7A Flyer is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: US
Posts: 1,359
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For the top skins, we used this

http://www.cleavelandtool.com/Back-R...ductinfo/BB46/

and I forget which rivet set we used (double offset or double offset with a spring and collar or just a long rivet set, I forget which) to back-rivet. Came out *very* nice...all rivets nicely set, very smooth upper skins.
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  #12  
Old 03-02-2017, 08:51 AM
Robert Anglin Robert Anglin is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: houston, texas
Posts: 719
Default Rear spar web.

If you don't have the kits for the service bulletin it would be easy to do the upgrade as you build the wings. You may never need the extra strength but it will be there and recorded in the log from then on. It is your call, but you may wish to look at SB-16-03-28 and give it thought.
Yours, R.E.A. III #80888
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  #13  
Old 03-02-2017, 09:57 AM
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colojo colojo is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Denver, CO
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I didn't build my 8 but I'll give a +1 to deluxe fuel caps. The Vans standard caps are serviceable but a pain in the butt.
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  #14  
Old 03-02-2017, 03:33 PM
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ronschreck ronschreck is offline
 
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Location: Gold Hill Airpark (NC25), NC
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I would move the tie-down Rings further outboard. Most Airfield tie-down spaces have connections about 6 or 8 feet wide of the stock rings.
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  #15  
Old 03-02-2017, 06:30 PM
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Carl Froehlich Carl Froehlich is online now
 
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Location: Dogwood Airpark (VA42)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ronschreck View Post
I would move the tie-down Rings further outboard. Most Airfield tie-down spaces have connections about 6 or 8 feet wide of the stock rings.
While this is possible, you will need to retain the tie down bracket's function of mounting the aileron bell crank nutplates.

One other suggestion. The plans call for countersinking the wing skins for the wing root fairing screws. I dimpled for #8 screw - the skin, the doubler and the rib, and used a dimpled screw nutplate. The skin dimple may need to be cleaned up a little with a deburring tool, but not much. It is hard to get a good countersink the skin for the dimpled wingroot fairing.

Carl
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  #16  
Old 03-11-2017, 03:11 AM
Dale Cross Dale Cross is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Republic of Ireland
Posts: 3
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Thank you everyone for your inputs.

I will take time to digest your suggestions and decide which ones will work for me.

I just started countersinking the main spar flanges to accept the tank skin number 8 screws yesterday. I had read about difficulties here and had a friend get it wrong so I was terrified of screwing up the spar! All went well though and only about 100 left!
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  #17  
Old 03-11-2017, 07:32 AM
Robert Anglin Robert Anglin is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: houston, texas
Posts: 719
Default You bet.

That's what we are here for, fun and Flying. Always wanted to visit the island. I have heard that it very nice from the air and a good way to see it.
I have also heard the family name came over the pound from County Cork around 1693 or so. Keep going, you have the right idea and airplane to make us want to visit and fly along side some day. Yours as always, R.E.A. III #80888
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  #18  
Old 03-11-2017, 06:25 PM
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carlrai carlrai is offline
 
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 431
Default Tank Z brackets

Having struggled with re-mounting tanks following a leak repair on my 9A, I wished that I had used floating nut plates on the Z brackets to overcome any mis- alignment I had inadvertently built in when drilling. It doesn't take much drill bit drift to create this and figured this was the way around this for any future builds.

So started my 8 wings and included this when I built the tanks. Major difference attaching and no mis-alignment issues. Holes in bracket slightly oversized to allow for movement of the floating threads.

Yeah I know measure six times and take your time. But for us less than perfect builders this is the bomb, especially if you need to remove/re-attach your tanks.

Flame suit on....
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  #19  
Old 04-04-2017, 05:28 PM
Berchmans Berchmans is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Posts: 394
Default Pitot lines

As you are running the Pitot lines be sure that they do not run directly over the center of the bolts that hold the fuel tank brackets in place. If you ever need t remove the tanks this can be a added pain to removal and replacement of said bolts.
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