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  #11  
Old 08-24-2014, 11:58 AM
caapt caapt is online now
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Pottsboro TX
Posts: 52
Default Success!

Installed 3rd set of bushings. It was Easy! Minimal reaming for bolt insertion and installed. Worked first try! These bearings were straight
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  #12  
Old 03-09-2017, 02:50 PM
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goatflieg goatflieg is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Clarkston, MI
Posts: 254
Default How I solved the problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by rapid_ascent View Post
I had a problem with mine binding once it rotated past a certain amount. Vans said to sand the interior but that didn't seem to help. I ordered a new one and a new bushing to see how those work. I was thinking that my bushings might not be square on the ends. I sanded them to final length on my HF 1" belt sander so they probably aren't perfectly square on the ends.

I may try to rig up some sort of fence thing to keep it square. I'm not sure if this has anything to do with my problem but hopefully with the options I now have with the new parts I can get it to work correctly.
I had the same problems. Working on the parts myself helped a little, but did not completely solve the problem. The fact that the bushing fit well in some positions but not others told me something wasn't straight, but I didn't have the tools available to determine whether the bellcrank tube or the bushing was the main culprit. I took the parts to a local machinist to have them inspect the parts. The verdict was that both the bellcrank and the bushing were rough, and the bushing wasn't straight. He was able to smooth out the interior of the bellcrank tube, ream out the center of the bushing and polish the exterior enough to allow smooth operation without bringing it out of tolerance. The lesson here is that these are nice parts... but they aren't finished parts built to spec; they will require some fettling. He also recommended a superior lubricant for this application: Kluber Lubrication Isoflex Topas NB 52. It's waterproof and very clingy, yet lightweight with very little stiction, and it holds up better in use than most other greases would. There are other aerospace lubricants that may work as well... but he recommended the Kluber as being the best.
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Martin J Filiatrault
Clarkston, MI
RV-8 #83507 - empennage complete (except fiberglass)
QB wings & fuselage work continues
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  #13  
Old 03-09-2017, 02:59 PM
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goatflieg goatflieg is offline
 
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I knew Kluber was imported from Germany and I probably wouldn't find it at any local auto parts stores, so I just did a search for a source... and just as I feared, the stuff is incredibly expensive! Sigh. Nothing about this hobby is cheap, especially if you want the best. Also, feel free to insert "lube" joke here...
https://cnc-specialty-store.com/grea...aaeb3bc6027c94
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Martin J Filiatrault
Clarkston, MI
RV-8 #83507 - empennage complete (except fiberglass)
QB wings & fuselage work continues
N657AR reserved
Builder websites:
http://goatflieg.blogspot.com/
http://www.mykitlog.com/goatflieg/
Dues paid for 2017... extra payment included for psychological therapeutic services rendered.

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  #14  
Old 03-09-2017, 03:32 PM
Ralph Inkster Ralph Inkster is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Posts: 281
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Another contributor to sticky bushings is over torquing the bolt, literally squeezing the bushing into the steel bellcrank tube. The OP was applying 85 in/lb to the bolt (mis-reading torque values in section 5.2), AN365- 1/4" nylocks should be torqued to 50 to 70 in/lb.
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Maintain lots, upgraded & repaired some, modified more, rebuild a few, & built 4 of 'em
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  #15  
Old 03-09-2017, 03:58 PM
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goatflieg goatflieg is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ralph Inkster View Post
Another contributor to sticky bushings is over torquing the bolt, literally squeezing the bushing into the steel bellcrank tube. The OP was applying 85 in/lb to the bolt (mis-reading torque values in section 5.2), AN365- 1/4" nylocks should be torqued to 50 to 70 in/lb.
Thanks for supplying that torque spec; saved me some additional research. I bought some standard 1/4-28 and 10-32 nuts to use for bench testing the assembly. I discussed the cinch-binding with my machinist and he concurred with your assessment. Reaming the bushing will also alleviate that to some extent, but proper torque is the key.
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Martin J Filiatrault
Clarkston, MI
RV-8 #83507 - empennage complete (except fiberglass)
QB wings & fuselage work continues
N657AR reserved
Builder websites:
http://goatflieg.blogspot.com/
http://www.mykitlog.com/goatflieg/
Dues paid for 2017... extra payment included for psychological therapeutic services rendered.

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  #16  
Old 03-09-2017, 06:59 PM
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goatflieg goatflieg is offline
 
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Correction: I was TOLD Kluber was imported from Germany... but now that I'm looking at photos I took, I see "Made In USA" on all the various containers of it. So I guess it's made in the USA. That makes it seem more expensive... or maybe that's the reason why.
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Martin J Filiatrault
Clarkston, MI
RV-8 #83507 - empennage complete (except fiberglass)
QB wings & fuselage work continues
N657AR reserved
Builder websites:
http://goatflieg.blogspot.com/
http://www.mykitlog.com/goatflieg/
Dues paid for 2017... extra payment included for psychological therapeutic services rendered.

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