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  #131  
Old 03-01-2016, 12:59 PM
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longranger longranger is offline
 
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There are "tank dies" that dimple a few thousandths deeper to accommodate the sealant.
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  #132  
Old 03-01-2016, 02:27 PM
tgmillso tgmillso is offline
 
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Good call on priming the Z brackets now, given access to the back of the bracket will be difficult later. I think what I'll do is just tape off the surface to be fay sealed, hit up the rest of it, then peel off the tape afterwards. I think I'll leave the T-405 angle until I paint the exterior of the tank once it's complete.
Cheers,
Tom.
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  #133  
Old 03-02-2016, 05:21 AM
tgmillso tgmillso is offline
 
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Good call on the tank dies also. Unfortunately that would be two weeks shipping to get here, so I'm going to drill out and reseal tomorrow the couple of proudest ones, and plough on with the the remainder as I hope to have these tanks wrapped up by the weekend. I think the next set of wings will be quick build, blisters or no blisters, as these tanks are a mountain of work. T.
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  #134  
Old 10-11-2016, 09:14 PM
RobB52 RobB52 is offline
 
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Location: Shreveport, LA
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Can someone explain the process of using a pneumatic sealer to apply the sealant? Do you have some sort of disposable cartridges you fill with proseal? How do you clean the gun? Do you shoot a uniform bead on the skin and ribs or just one side?

I still do not like the idea of using popsicle sticks to spread the sealant and am considering buying a pneumatic gun.

Thanks
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  #135  
Old 10-12-2016, 06:01 AM
noelf noelf is offline
 
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The "sealant gun" is similar in operation to a "calk" gun, except that the sealant gun is attached to an air hose. You fill the disposable cartridges with the sealant of your choice, load the cartridge into the gun, attach the air hose, and pull the triger.

The cartridges are available in two basic sizes, the screw on tips are separate as are the end cap plugs. These plugs are what push against the sealant to eject it out the tip.
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  #136  
Old 10-12-2016, 11:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noelf View Post
The "sealant gun" is similar in operation to a "calk" gun, except that the sealant gun is attached to an air hose. You fill the disposable cartridges with the sealant of your choice, load the cartridge into the gun, attach the air hose, and pull the triger.

The cartridges are available in two basic sizes, the screw on tips are separate as are the end cap plugs. These plugs are what push against the sealant to eject it out the tip.
Or buy a full cartridge in this form from AC spruce and it will fit right into the sealant gun.



I found the 3.5 oz size correct for the rear baffle on a single tank.
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  #137  
Old 10-12-2016, 11:56 AM
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larrynew larrynew is online now
 
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Default Semco Sealant Gun

Rob,

Here's my blog post about the Semco Sealant Gun. I would never build a tank without one.

http://larrys-airplane.blogspot.com/...alant-gun.html
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  #138  
Old 10-12-2016, 01:51 PM
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wirejock wirejock is offline
 
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Default Proseal gun

Sorry, I can't resist.
Here's mine. Cheap. Yes, I actually used it and it worked. Syringes were modified by cutting off the ears and thumb loop. Once done, just toss them.
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  #139  
Old 04-19-2017, 12:01 AM
amaris amaris is offline
 
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Location: Santa Ynez, CA
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Default MEK Alternative

Such a great thread, thanks to everyone for their thoughts and experiences.

I'm getting ready to start the tanks. I live in California, if the name sounds environmentally hazardous, they have stopped selling it.

What are some good alternatives to clean the tank before prosealing and cleaning wet proseal off areas I don't want it on?

MEK, Toluene (I think anything ...ene have been banned, including xylene and naptha) are all not for sale in CA to the general public.
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  #140  
Old 04-19-2017, 01:53 AM
tgmillso tgmillso is offline
 
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Location: Launceston, Tasmania, Australia
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Default Automotive wax and grease remover.

At the end of the day what you are trying to achieve is an impecably clean, mechanically etched surface to bond to. Thus, what you hope to do is remove all wax and grease deposits. So long as you let what ever solvent you are using fully evaporate after the cleaning stage, from my perspective there should be no risk of it impacting your bond. I found out that builders in Europe were using automotive wax and grease remover as they couldn't source MEK, so I gave it a try. My tanks came up great and passed the manometer pressure test with flying colors. The only reservation is that I am still a few months away from flying, so I can't give you the long term test results. Perhaps the European builders can chime in here.
Tom.
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