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  #1  
Old 09-21-2019, 07:26 PM
FNG FNG is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Southern Ca
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Default Stud removal

Iím installing a P- mag on the impulse side and need to remove the long studs.

Any good techniques? Iíve tried double nuts, and my stud removal tool seems to not be good enough. Is there a type of tool that has worked? Should I try to heat the aluminum?

Any suggestions would be appreciated

Tom
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  #2  
Old 09-21-2019, 07:43 PM
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DakotaHawk DakotaHawk is offline
 
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I just did the same a few weeks ago. Use the nuts that came with the engine to hold the old slick mags on. Double the two nuts up on one stud. Crank down so they are TIGHT against each other. Then use a wrench to twist the stud out. The studs will require a little more force than you might expect, but come out freely once they start to turn. I didn't have to use any heat, penetrating oil, special tools, etc.
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  #3  
Old 09-21-2019, 08:56 PM
ssonixx ssonixx is offline
 
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Lots and lots of heat on the base of the stud. I heated it for about 10 mins before it would budge.
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  #4  
Old 09-21-2019, 10:24 PM
FNG FNG is offline
 
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Thanks for the input. The more techniques the better.

Tom
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  #5  
Old 09-21-2019, 10:27 PM
terrye terrye is offline
 
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Default Stud Removal Tool

Talk to Mr. Snap-On, ask for a stud removal tool. Not too expensive, cheaper than damaging stud or casting.
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  #6  
Old 09-21-2019, 10:39 PM
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Funguy Funguy is offline
 
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Default Stud Removal tool

I am one of those guys that spent hours getting the longer studs out and the replacement studs from Brad in. I could not get the old studs out with the double nut trick suggested in numerous posts. My local auto Mechanic was able to lend me this really neat little socket from Mag tools. It is part number SR-8A. It has some eccentric cams that lock down on the stud as you turn and makes removal a breeze. Other posts have mentioned similar tools with varying degrees of success. It also is used for insertion but note the following caviat. The threads on both sides of the stud look identical but one side is actually an interference fit and is the side that goes into the block. CAREFULLY hand tread this side into the block as far as you can before using the socket. The hole is treaded all the way through the wall of the block so dry fit the P-mag with the clamp and nut from time to time as you insert the stud until you have about three threads still showing above the nut. Alternately, Lycoming has a spec that tells you how much of the stud should be exposed prior to putting on the P-Mag.
Oddly, the stud I removed did not have the interference fit.

Cheers, Sean
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  #7  
Old 09-21-2019, 11:10 PM
Taltruda Taltruda is offline
 
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Default Removal

Double nut, and a little heat.. try the harbor freight heat gun thatís like a blow dryer... you canít get it too hot with that. Or you can use a portable propane torch and just try a few seconds at a time, protecting other engine parts with a tee shirt or towel soaked in water to keep other things cool...
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  #8  
Old 09-22-2019, 12:00 AM
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majuro15 majuro15 is offline
 
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Heat is a nice help but I used a stud extractor from amazon for the prop gov studs. Just couldn’t get it with double nut method. Ares 70016 worked like a charm and had all 4 out in a few minutes.
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  #9  
Old 09-22-2019, 07:06 AM
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DanH DanH is offline
 
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I'm curious. A P-mag can be clocked into the case at any angle. Obviously the standard stud for an impulse Slick is too long to fit in under the rectangular box portion of the P-mag. However, is the stud too long to fit under the connectors, using a simple machined spacer? The other side of of the P-mag is clear.



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  #10  
Old 09-22-2019, 10:38 AM
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Ironflight Ironflight is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanH View Post
I'm curious. A P-mag can be clocked into the case at any angle. Obviously the standard stud for an impulse Slick is too long to fit in under the rectangular box portion of the P-mag. However, is the stud too long to fit under the connectors, using a simple machined spacer? The other side of of the P-mag is clear.
Iíve installed P-Mags on a few planes, and something always gets in the way of the long studs Dan - the P-Mags just have some odd bumps and shapes, and while you can find a way to line it up so that the studs don't hit the P-Mag, you then find that the P-Mag is hitting a motor mount, oil filter adapter, case breather...something!

Paul
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