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Tilt-up Canopy Jettison Question-

Hartstoc

Well Known Member
I’ve looked through a number of older threads about issues related to the possibility of emergency jetisoning the canopy. I’m about to embark on an extended series of aerobatic training flights in my tilt-up 7A so I’m pondering a few questions. As far as I can tell, there are no documented instances of intentional bail-out from an RV tilt-up. Since I’ll have the chutes anyway, might it make sense to wear them routinely?

One post brought up possible complications caused by cables from GPS antennae and other devices mounted on the glare-shield, but I’ve not seen much about the gas springs, or actual recommended proceedures for jettisoning the canopy in various scenarios.

Obviously, if the aircraft is flying straight ahead at high velocity, just pulling the handle will do the trick, and all attacments will instantly be torn free. The more likely scenario would follow a collision or structural failure, in which case the aircraft may be tumbling or falling in some odd attitude at the decision point. It is probably impossible to come up with a good, simple procedure that will cover all possibilities.

With substantial forward velocity, I’d be inclined to release the main latch but leave the center latch engaged before pulling the handle, hoping the canopy would pop off with a clean backflip that would prevent it from striking occupants. Other scenarios are probably going to require some quick thinking during a very stressful moment.

I’m also thinking about making two minor changes designed to improve the odds of success, and would appreciate reactions, questions, and insights from the “VAF Mindspring”

First, I plan to install junctions modified for easy breakaway or some sort of hidden cutter that would sever any electric cables passing through the glareshield.

Second, since the gas springs always load their end supports in compression, I’m planning to partially sever all four of the end-mount threaded shafts near their bases and orient them so that the cut is pointing away from the gas spring at both ends. That would make them more prone to break away if the spring is abruptly placed in tension(but not so weak that a gust from behind with canopy open on the ground might break them).

Thoughts?

Later edit- The solution I finally devised is describedin another new thread I started that can be found here:

http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?p=1287422#post1287422
 
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The original canopy jettison was designed long before the "struts" were added.
Personally, I don't like the struts for several reasons, and I consider the jettison mechanism inappropriate with them installed. Back when I was doing a lot of test flighting, I would only test fly with the struts removed.
I agree that the primary canopy latch should be released if the canopy is to be jettisoned.

I honestly believe that small wires connecting antennas and such on the glareshield will break away without consequences.
 
Otis -- Install aluminum bolts at ends of gas struts to serve as break-aways?? -- David
 
Otis -- Install aluminum bolts at ends of gas struts to serve as break-aways?? -- David

Hello, David! - that is worth considering where the brackets attach to the longerons. Mel?s comments make me think that simply removing the gas struts anytime you are going to the trouble of wearing a parachute could make sense.- Otis
 
The RV-12 uses Frangible Head Bolts to mount the fuel tank in the fuselage. The bolts are drilled thru the center of the hex head. Depth of drill is 0.37. Sorry, I do not know the drill size. The design is such that the hex head of the bolt will pop off with excessive force. Best to have mounting come loose than rupture the tank. Bolts remain AN steel yellow zinc plated. I potted the holes with RTV to prevent internal rust.
 
This info may be of interest. Not specific to the RV-7A Tip-Up, but an actual canopy jettison incident where the pilot (Sean Tucker) had time to plan his leaving the airplane. In the video linked below, Sean Tucker talks about his bailout while practicing for Sun 'n Fun in 2006. He lost elevator control shortly after takeoff, but he could keep the airplane airborne using the elevator trim. But given the lack of stability of his aerobatic biplane, he didn't think he could land it with just the trim.

Funny, I actually started this thread after having watched this very video yesterday! My attitude toward skydiving has always been ”Who would want to jump out of a perfectly good airplane?”, but $5K or so worth of
parachutes are required for legal dual aerobatics, so that set off a series of questions:

1- Could I actually get out of my airplane uninjured if I had decided to bail?
2- Am I going to leave this small fortune in parachutes hanging on the hangar wall when I’m NOT doing aerobatics?
3- How would I feel if a Canadian Goose took out my tail feathers and I HAD left them hanging on th wall?

I’m still pondering all of these questions.
 
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RTV

The RV-12 uses Frangible Head Bolts to mount the fuel tank in the fuselage. The bolts are drilled thru the center of the hex head. Depth of drill is 0.37. Sorry, I do not know the drill size. The design is such that the hex head of the bolt will pop off with excessive force. Best to have mounting come loose than rupture the tank. Bolts remain AN steel yellow zinc plated. I potted the holes with RTV to prevent internal rust.

I don?t mean to make you second guess, but I have always noticed that RTV actually causes metal to rust.. I think it is the acid that helps it etch. I thing house caulking doesn?t have that acid and the potent smell that automotive ATV has.
 
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