Van's Air Force
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cockpit/interior paint
- Thread starter RV8R999
- Start date
Ken,
I used Sherwin Williams JetFlex. It is available solvent based or water base and flat or satin finishes. I used water base flat and was very pleased with the results. I even used it to paint my panel. Initially I sprayed it. There is no smell with the water base. Then I scratched a spot and was able to blend it perfectly with a brush. I suspect you could brush (foam brush?) the inside of the fuselage and spray the removable parts with excellent results and good matching. Instructions say nothing about brush application but it would be worth a try since it worked so well for the touch up.
I was really impressed at how well I could repair a scratch which bodes well for future repairs and/or matching.
This stuff is made for interiors and really works well.
Ken
I used Sherwin Williams JetFlex. It is available solvent based or water base and flat or satin finishes. I used water base flat and was very pleased with the results. I even used it to paint my panel. Initially I sprayed it. There is no smell with the water base. Then I scratched a spot and was able to blend it perfectly with a brush. I suspect you could brush (foam brush?) the inside of the fuselage and spray the removable parts with excellent results and good matching. Instructions say nothing about brush application but it would be worth a try since it worked so well for the touch up.
I was really impressed at how well I could repair a scratch which bodes well for future repairs and/or matching.
This stuff is made for interiors and really works well.
Ken
vmirv8bldr
Well Known Member
Rustoleum Hammered Finish Gray, after assembly
I did the same thing with the AKZO 2-part stuff. I opted to assemble and then final paint, as I figured the rivets would stand out, and the paint could get damaged by the rivet gun.
I scuffed the primed interior with maroon scotchbrite, then used lots of SEM Solve solvent to clean everything up real nice. I also masked off everythig I didn't want paint. Then I use Rustoleum Gray hammer-finish rattle cans. This goes on in fairly thick coats. Surfaces need to be as flat as possible for the best hammered look, but it's not critical.
Prior to going this route, I did several tests with different textured rattle can stuff. I prepped them all equally, then sprayed and allowed it to cure for the approriate time. Then I abused the pieces by dropping them, then by dropping tools on them from about a foot high. The hammered stuff held up very well in my tests, and the Gray color was the most pleasing.
If I were to do it again, I would use the silver. The gray is nice, but I believe it is a bit dark.
Oh, I also have the fuselage on a rotisserie, as suggested by several folks. That did make the painting a lot easier.
I did the same thing with the AKZO 2-part stuff. I opted to assemble and then final paint, as I figured the rivets would stand out, and the paint could get damaged by the rivet gun.
I scuffed the primed interior with maroon scotchbrite, then used lots of SEM Solve solvent to clean everything up real nice. I also masked off everythig I didn't want paint. Then I use Rustoleum Gray hammer-finish rattle cans. This goes on in fairly thick coats. Surfaces need to be as flat as possible for the best hammered look, but it's not critical.
Prior to going this route, I did several tests with different textured rattle can stuff. I prepped them all equally, then sprayed and allowed it to cure for the approriate time. Then I abused the pieces by dropping them, then by dropping tools on them from about a foot high. The hammered stuff held up very well in my tests, and the Gray color was the most pleasing.
If I were to do it again, I would use the silver. The gray is nice, but I believe it is a bit dark.
Oh, I also have the fuselage on a rotisserie, as suggested by several folks. That did make the painting a lot easier.
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chrispratt
Well Known Member
Ken:
I used PPG Concept series. The primer looked so nice I was tempted to leave it at just that, but I went ahead and final coated it with the gloss finish paint. People frequently ask about having gloss paint on the instrument panel, but I've had no problems with glare and it does look good. The PPG dries hard and takes abuse well.
Chris
I used PPG Concept series. The primer looked so nice I was tempted to leave it at just that, but I went ahead and final coated it with the gloss finish paint. People frequently ask about having gloss paint on the instrument panel, but I've had no problems with glare and it does look good. The PPG dries hard and takes abuse well.
Chris
RVG8tor
Well Known Member
Rustoleum hammered.
I am not flying yet but I have been in and out of the plane a lot. About the only complaint is it does not do well with sharp metal hitting it but what paint does. What I like is that I can touch it up really easy, the textured finish make blending a non issue. I used silver in the baggage and floor areas and gray everywhere else. The like is to my site with a separate category for painting.
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=rvg8tor&project=403&category=4294&log=68683&row=1
I am not flying yet but I have been in and out of the plane a lot. About the only complaint is it does not do well with sharp metal hitting it but what paint does. What I like is that I can touch it up really easy, the textured finish make blending a non issue. I used silver in the baggage and floor areas and gray everywhere else. The like is to my site with a separate category for painting.
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=rvg8tor&project=403&category=4294&log=68683&row=1
John Courte
Well Known Member
I'm using Stewart Systems 2-part interior in battleship gray.. It's great paint and cleans up with water. Really tough after it dries.
Paint Prices
Anyone thinking of going with jetflex might want to check several distributors for prices. I found a 50% difference between the West coast and the Midwest.
And the water base stuff is really nice to work with after shooting Akzo 2 part primer.
Jerald King
-8 slo fuselage
Tucson
Anyone thinking of going with jetflex might want to check several distributors for prices. I found a 50% difference between the West coast and the Midwest.
And the water base stuff is really nice to work with after shooting Akzo 2 part primer.
Jerald King
-8 slo fuselage
Tucson
Jet Flex Prices
Just a data point. I called Aviall in Atlanta and they quoted about $90 a qt. The nice lady said she had to charge list, but if I knew some one with account that could order it for me, their cost would be about $50 a qt. By the way this is the easiest to spray paint I have ever seen. When setting up the gun, I used an old piece of aluminum roof flashing. I stapled it to the leg of a saw horse oriented vertical. While waiting to apply a second coat to some of the parts I just kept laying it on the flashing to see what I could get away with. I'm sure it would have eventually have run, if I had applied a ridicules amount of paint. I thinned 10% with DI water. Seems to be very tough once it dries for a week or two.
Alan Jackson
Just a data point. I called Aviall in Atlanta and they quoted about $90 a qt. The nice lady said she had to charge list, but if I knew some one with account that could order it for me, their cost would be about $50 a qt. By the way this is the easiest to spray paint I have ever seen. When setting up the gun, I used an old piece of aluminum roof flashing. I stapled it to the leg of a saw horse oriented vertical. While waiting to apply a second coat to some of the parts I just kept laying it on the flashing to see what I could get away with. I'm sure it would have eventually have run, if I had applied a ridicules amount of paint. I thinned 10% with DI water. Seems to be very tough once it dries for a week or two.
Alan Jackson
dedgemon
Well Known Member
Two different approaches
On my RV-9A I used a light gray rattle can enamel. It was easy and cheap but it just doesn't hold up really well.
On my RV-8 I went ahead and sprayed PPG epoxy primer and Concept (pure white). The Concept is MUCH MUCH tougher, although with a color choice like white you expect a few little scratches during the remainder of construction. These touch up nicely with a tiny brush.
On my RV-9A I used a light gray rattle can enamel. It was easy and cheap but it just doesn't hold up really well.
On my RV-8 I went ahead and sprayed PPG epoxy primer and Concept (pure white). The Concept is MUCH MUCH tougher, although with a color choice like white you expect a few little scratches during the remainder of construction. These touch up nicely with a tiny brush.
On my RV-4 I used very expensive epoxy gloss white on my interior. My buddy used a Krylon rattle can grey. They both scratch the same and to be honest his as held up great and looks better.
I just ordered my tail and wing kits for my 8 yesterday. I'm going to use the Krylon grey!
I spent about $150 dollars to paint my interior and I think my buddy spent about $35 with some paint left over.
I just ordered my tail and wing kits for my 8 yesterday. I'm going to use the Krylon grey!
I spent about $150 dollars to paint my interior and I think my buddy spent about $35 with some paint left over.
mandm1516
Well Known Member
I used krylon rattle can on my interior--it went on pretty easy with the newer applicator tips that spray in kind of a fan pattern. Here's my only beef: The color I wanted only came in high gloss--not sure if that's the problem. Whenever I have tried to touch up a scratch or an area that I wasn't completely happy with, the newly sprayed paint eats the existing paint off the metal as if I had wiped it with MEK--right down to the metal and I can wipe it all off with a rag.
I've tried sanding the old paint wet and dry, I talked to the guys at krylon who said to dry sand with 400 grit and then lightly wipe with lacquer thinner so the old paint is more receptive, nothing works. Only solution is to strip it down, reprime and repaint which defeats my reasoning for using rattle can paint in the first place.
My rollbar, seat backs, canopy frame, etc. are all painted with krylon rattle can black that's satin instead of high gloss--doesn't seem to do the same thing so maybe it's whatever is in the paint that makes it high gloss that's the issue? Whatever the cause, I'm glad I had a respirator on during the process or everyone within about 2 blocks would have heard some pretty serious language coming from my garage.
Just a datapoint.
I've tried sanding the old paint wet and dry, I talked to the guys at krylon who said to dry sand with 400 grit and then lightly wipe with lacquer thinner so the old paint is more receptive, nothing works. Only solution is to strip it down, reprime and repaint which defeats my reasoning for using rattle can paint in the first place.
My rollbar, seat backs, canopy frame, etc. are all painted with krylon rattle can black that's satin instead of high gloss--doesn't seem to do the same thing so maybe it's whatever is in the paint that makes it high gloss that's the issue? Whatever the cause, I'm glad I had a respirator on during the process or everyone within about 2 blocks would have heard some pretty serious language coming from my garage.
Just a datapoint.
