Cutting the canopy frame

RV 9 slider canopy. Has anyone cut the lower rear bows? Why I ask is the frame fits pretty good. It has a gap at the top of the front bow where it meets the rollover bow about 1/4" too wide. With this gap the side rails are close to being equidistant from fuse to top of fore aft skirt rail(about 3 and 1/2"). But the rear bow is 5/8" above the top rear fuse skin where the centre slide rail is located. If I lift the frame up to close the front frame bow to rollover gap so it is equal distant all around the gap then the rear centre bow moves up to almost 1" too high and the fore aft skirt rail is raised about 3/8" at the rear Is it possible to cut the rear bows where they meet the side skirt rails and lower the frame so the forward gap is the same and then I have close to 1/16" clearance around the rear bow to fuselage top skin. Would this cause problems fitting the perspex canopy if the frame was cut. I have already cut 3/8" of the roller tubes to lower the front frame bow.

This is not my idea but what I did, I did not drill and bolt the top slide down until I was done with the canopy and skirt, when I was done, with the canopy closed, I slide the top rail back to lower the skirt tight on the fuse, then drill and mount the top rail.

The canopy frame SHOULD be a bit wider & taller than the roll over bar, this accomodates the windshield curve in the plexi. Before you cut the frame apart, I strongly suggest you call Vans support & talk the problem thru, as the frames are usually pretty close as shipped, I've only ever had to do some minor bending to make them fit.
Regarding the aft vertical height, that is dictated by the front/back position of the rear center slide rail, move it back if you want to lower the canopy frame.

Good luck

Thanks Bret and Ralph. It was 5/8" too high at the rear when the gap between roll bar and front frame bow was acceptable. Also at this height the side bows were level. So we went ahead and cut it, re-welded and it is now very close all round. I didn't want to cut it but saw no option. Had a back up plan to put it back into original configuration. Had to bounce it on the floor a couple of times to move the rear bows. They were about 3/16" out of whack. I also think I can adjust further with spacers before Sikaflex. Hope this helps someone else. Before I do anything out of the ordinary I make a plan just in case of it going pear shaped.