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Rivets in Rudder Horn Brace

challinan

Active Member
Almost done with my rudder. Yahoo!

I can't for the life of me figure out how to set the four AN470AD4 rivets in the rudder Horn Brace R-00910. See the drawing here:

https://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/revisions/RV-14/RV-14_07.pdf

page 12 of the PDF (or page 07-10 of the plans.)

I don't think a flange-nosed yoke would fit the corner rivets. I'm thinking I need to purchase or fabricate a custom bucking bar?

Any ideas?

Thanks.
Chris
--
 
I just completed this section as well. I struggled with how to get to these and found that a longeron yoke on the squeezer was able to get to all but the bottom corner on the skin sides. For those 2 rivets I used a mini-tungsten angled bucking bar.
 
From figure 2 it seems like they intended for you to rivet those 2 pieces together before putting it together with the rest of the rudder assembly.
 
I have just completed this part and used the Tungsten Mini Bucking Bar, it has become my favourite bucking bar to use, and wish I had got it a long time ago

http://www.cleavelandtool.com/Tungsten-Mini-Bucking-Bar/productinfo/BBT12/#.WA4FBjJh3q0

Have you found this rectangular shaped one to be generally useful? I have this one:
http://www.cleavelandtool.com/Tungsten-Bucking-Bar/productinfo/BBT41/#.WA4kzPkrKUk


But do wonder which one to get if I get a second one. Yes I know you never can have enough of them :) But at $100+ a pop two will suffice.

Opinions? I am working on the rudder right now.
 
From figure 2 it seems like they intended for you to rivet those 2 pieces together before putting it together with the rest of the rudder assembly.

If you follow the assembly sequence, it is not possible to rivet the brace before, because the spar has the lower rib already riveted to it in an earlier step, blocking access to the inside of the rudder brace. The right bucking bar seems to be the generally accepted solution. Thanks to all who answered!

-Chris
 
Tungsten Bars

Have you found this rectangular shaped one to be generally useful? I have this one:
http://www.cleavelandtool.com/Tungsten-Bucking-Bar/productinfo/BBT41/#.WA4kzPkrKUk


But do wonder which one to get if I get a second one. Yes I know you never can have enough of them :) But at $100+ a pop two will suffice.

Opinions? I am working on the rudder right now.

Yes, if you buy the rectangular one (http://www.cleavelandtool.com/Tungsten-Bucking-Bar/productinfo/BBT41/#.WA4wU_RuPz4) and also the fatter one (http://www.cleavelandtool.com/Tungsten-Mini-Bucking-Bar/productinfo/BBT12/#.WA4wifRuPz4) (my go to bar whenever possible), you will never use the other bucking bars. Once you go tungsten, you'll never go back. Word of caution, ALWAYS make sure you have a towel or some other soft surface on any aluminum below what you are working on. If you drop it, it will cause damage! Yes, ask me how I know.
 
For posterity: I just checked with mothership and the response was it's safe to substitute with Cherry CR-3213-4-? of the proper length for the four bottom rivets in the rudder horn.

I did actually make a small bucking block to fit inside (cutting tungsten is fun) but couldn't get a decent shop head with the silly thing squirreling sideways no matter how I tried to hold it.

You should check with mothership for every such situation to make sure it still meets design loads after fastener substitution.
 
I foolishly ordered a bucking bar that I thought would work for these rivets, before reading this thread. Rather than ordering another tungsten bucking bar, we just located some Cherrymax rivets. My building mentor had some rivets and, very important, the grip gauge, which shows that the correct length was a 3. So we put in CR3213-4-3 rivets to attach the rudder horn brace to the rudder horn.

Now the mystery is how to rivet the skins to the rudder horn brace. Any tips?
 
If you put a long set on the yoke of a squeezer (what instructions tell you not to do lest you damage the yoke) these rivets are easy to reach.
Thanks for the tip. I'll test that out. Since the rivets are AD3's, it may work. I found that the pneumatic squeezer was not in a strong enough part of its stroke to set rivets when it was set up to reach the AD4's between the rudder horn and the brace.
 
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