Does anyone have a tried and true method of attaching the top cowling on an RV-6? I currently have piano wire holding the cowling on but it is not a 1 person job to put it all back together. I?m looking for a low drag way to replace the piano wire and allow me to remove and attach to cowling by myself.
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Replacing the piano wire on my RV-6
- Thread starter Jmason
- Start date
Sam Buchanan
been here awhile
The bottom half of the cowl can certainly be a handful until some technique is acquired but I've never considered the top half of the cowl to be a two-person job. The side pins can be inserted first then the pins that go across the fuse can be inserted.
However, a common upgrade is to replace the fuse pins with either screws or Camloc fasteners. This is usually not to make installation easier but to eliminate slop in the attachment when the hinge eyes begin wearing out.
Maybe if you provide more detailed descriptions (photos?) of the cowl installation that is giving you problems we can offer specific assistance.
However, a common upgrade is to replace the fuse pins with either screws or Camloc fasteners. This is usually not to make installation easier but to eliminate slop in the attachment when the hinge eyes begin wearing out.
Maybe if you provide more detailed descriptions (photos?) of the cowl installation that is giving you problems we can offer specific assistance.
Last edited:
Bob Martin
Well Known Member
Quarter turn fasteners
https://skybolt.com/portfolio/vans-series-cowlings/
http://www.milspecproducts.com/vans_cowling_kits
This is the alternative to piano hinges.
https://skybolt.com/portfolio/vans-series-cowlings/
http://www.milspecproducts.com/vans_cowling_kits
This is the alternative to piano hinges.
Carl Froehlich
Well Known Member
Don?t give up on the hinge pin approach. It is dirt simple and looks good. There are a few things to try if not done already:
- If you are having a problem with the hinge eyes ?zipping? together, then a few minutes with a Dremal tool to gain a little more clearance between the hinge eyes works well.
- Take some steel wool and WD-40 and clean up the hinge pin.
- Add a couple of drops of oil to the first 6? or so of the pin to help it slide in.
One great tip I got from someone on VAF years ago was to replace the top cowl 3/32? pin with a 1/8? SS pin. I chucked the pin up into the drill press and used a rotary file with my angled grinder to file down the first 10? - 12? of the pin back to 3/32?. Then trimmed off the end of the pin in the bench press chuck. The tappered end makes the bend around the sides easy. The full 1/8? at the top prevents the cowl from popping up in the hinge slack when flying and you have pressure under the cowl.
Carl
- If you are having a problem with the hinge eyes ?zipping? together, then a few minutes with a Dremal tool to gain a little more clearance between the hinge eyes works well.
- Take some steel wool and WD-40 and clean up the hinge pin.
- Add a couple of drops of oil to the first 6? or so of the pin to help it slide in.
One great tip I got from someone on VAF years ago was to replace the top cowl 3/32? pin with a 1/8? SS pin. I chucked the pin up into the drill press and used a rotary file with my angled grinder to file down the first 10? - 12? of the pin back to 3/32?. Then trimmed off the end of the pin in the bench press chuck. The tappered end makes the bend around the sides easy. The full 1/8? at the top prevents the cowl from popping up in the hinge slack when flying and you have pressure under the cowl.
Carl
Some places might be binding due to eyes not lining up. Might have to push in certain areas of the cowl to get the pins to slide in. Play with it and it should come with one person. Once you discover the trick it will be easier.
After hours of engine operation the tight fit will loosen some.
After hours of engine operation the tight fit will loosen some.
Is this on a flying plane or one being built?
If this is a new build and things are tight, don?t give up on the hinges. Once running and getting heated up by the engine, things will loosen up. It?s amazing how much easier it will be to get those hinges in, after just a few flights.
My $.02
If this is a new build and things are tight, don?t give up on the hinges. Once running and getting heated up by the engine, things will loosen up. It?s amazing how much easier it will be to get those hinges in, after just a few flights.
My $.02
Sam Buchanan
been here awhile
Based on the OP's public profile and previous posts it appears he purchased a flying RV-6.
strahler13
Well Known Member
Put the left side (pilot) in first. Then the passenger side, as you can align the eyelets on the passenger side by adjusting from the inside using the oil door.
RV-6 Cowling
Thanks for all of the advice. I did buy a flying RV-6, It was completed in 1998 and the hinges don't line up as well as they probably did when it was newer. I actually ended up applying too much pressure to the pilots side and cracked the cowling and i am going to have to re-glass the one side and i figured i would make my life easier and find a new method now so I done have so much trouble in the future. The Piano wire does look nice but at this point i'm going more for function then looks.
Thanks for all of the advice. I did buy a flying RV-6, It was completed in 1998 and the hinges don't line up as well as they probably did when it was newer. I actually ended up applying too much pressure to the pilots side and cracked the cowling and i am going to have to re-glass the one side and i figured i would make my life easier and find a new method now so I done have so much trouble in the future. The Piano wire does look nice but at this point i'm going more for function then looks.
A good cowl installation (regardless of what fastening method is used) requires a net fit of the cowl halves to each other and to the fuselage.
The sign of a great installation is that with the top cowl sitting in place on the bottom half, you can't tell if the pins are installed yet......
If the installation was poorly done and force/pressure needs to be used to get the cowl halves into proper position and install the fasteners, the entire installation will be plagued with problems (broken rivets, hinge loops, cam-lock studs, etc.).
This often occurs because of excess trimming which makes the builder pull things into alignment so that the gap doesn't look bad. After just a couple of instances of doing this, the cowl will be under a strain that will make removal and installation difficult, and will influence the overall longevity of the installation. Strain+vibration=destruction (over time).
The sign of a great installation is that with the top cowl sitting in place on the bottom half, you can't tell if the pins are installed yet......
If the installation was poorly done and force/pressure needs to be used to get the cowl halves into proper position and install the fasteners, the entire installation will be plagued with problems (broken rivets, hinge loops, cam-lock studs, etc.).
This often occurs because of excess trimming which makes the builder pull things into alignment so that the gap doesn't look bad. After just a couple of instances of doing this, the cowl will be under a strain that will make removal and installation difficult, and will influence the overall longevity of the installation. Strain+vibration=destruction (over time).
