Bulkhead connectors

Hello All

I'm in the process of installing an Infinity Stick Grip with electric trim in my RV-4 (Yes still ) and as everyone who has done it know, the wiring bundle is fairly large..

I was thinking of using a DSUB connector to connect all the wires undre the seat which will have involve punching holes thru the bulkheads to get the wires in place ...

Looking at pictures on the net, I saw that some people used bulkheads connectors where only the connector goes thru the bulkheads and the wires are just screwed on the connectors..

Do you guys know where I could buy good quality connectors like that and also is a special tool require to put the wires in the connector??

Thanks

Bruno
[email protected]

RV-4 said:

Hello All

I'm in the process of installing an Infinity Stick Grip with electric trim in my RV-4 (Yes still ) and as everyone who has done it know, the wiring bundle is fairly large..

I was thinking of using a DSUB connector to connect all the wires undre the seat which will have involve punching holes thru the bulkheads to get the wires in place ...

Looking at pictures on the net, I saw that some people used bulkheads connectors where only the connector goes thru the bulkheads and the wires are just screwed on the connectors..

Do you guys know where I could buy good quality connectors like that and also is a special tool require to put the wires in the connector??

Thanks

Bruno
[email protected]

Click to expand...

I think you're talking about circular plastic connectors (CPC).



I haven't used any yet but have seen other builders use them. Here is ACS link to CPC's https://www.aircraftspruce.com/search/search.php?s=cpc&x=23&y=9

Connectors

Thanks Carlos

That looks like what I?m looking for.

I wonder if a special tool is required to insert the wires in the connector or if a standard tool is good enough??

Bruno

I think if you combine just 2 of the ground wires you will be down to 15 signals so you could use a DB-15. Some people combine more wires but I don't think I'm going to. For now im sticking with the fat cable that came with the stick. This may change though.

I used a DB-15 under the seats of my -7A, which provides more than enough pins. Just tie-wrap them together (no need for a shell).

Yes, the plastic connector mentioned above requires a special crimper.

Raymo said:

Yes, the plastic connector mentioned above requires a special crimper.

Click to expand...

If you buy the open-barrel pins you can easily get away with using tools designed for Molex connectors, such as this one from Stein
https://www.steinair.com/product/molex-open-barreled-pin-crimper/
or this one from B & C
http://www.bandc.aero/openbarrelcrimptool.aspx

For pin extraction, the extraction tool is used on the front (pin) side, not from the back (wire) side; most of the extraction tools used for Molex are also applicable to the AMP connectors. I have the AMP-specific tool and it works perfectly for the 22ga pins but the Molex tools work just as well for the larger-gauge pins.

I've used these AMP connectors in some pretty brutal environments and they have performed flawlessly (save for those instances where they suffered high impact forces). They're my go-to connector for making a "plug and play" instrument panel. Avoid buying them at Spruce if you can - other on-line vendors like Mouser and DigiKey are more affordable.

Bulkheads Connectors

My original plan was to use DB Connectors but I find these Bulkheads Connectors a little more professionnal but will see..

Canadian Joy: I already have the crimper you mentioned so that is one less thing to worry about..

Thank you all for your advises, greatly appreciated.

Bruno
[email protected]

Contacts

Just an FYI, some versions of those plastic CPC connectors use the exact same pins/sockets as d-sub connectors. (and the same crimper, insertion/removal tooling) !!

Although, D-subs work excellent. Unless you are with limited space I would just stick with traditional. I also would recommend getting one gender of the connection point with the 4-40 lugs on the d-sub.

rapid_ascent said:

I think if you combine just 2 of the ground wires you will be down to 15 signals so you could use a DB-15. Some people combine more wires but I don't think I'm going to. For now I'm sticking with the fat cable that came with the stick. This may change though.

Click to expand...

I'm sticking with the full set of wires in the bundle - no combining of ground wires to thin the cable. I was talking with the seller of the grips (his name escapes me at the moment) and he pointed out that if that one ground wire fails then you've failed any set of buttons that reply on that one ground wire.

I still haven't decided whether to run the cable out the end of the stick or out a hole at the end of the stick, or out a hole just underneath the grip and run the bundle down the outside of the stick.