RV-3 Rudder Return Springs?

The only thing we didn't complete last weekend in setting up our rudder/cables/pedals system was to install the return springs from the pedals to the firewall because, well, we didn't have any. I checked all our remaining parts bags, and unfortunately, our bag inventory lists have gone missing. Van's sent me a copy of the inventory lists this morning, and no springs are listed, so I guess that means we are on our own to find some at the local Ace or Home Depot Aircraft Supply Center.

Does anyone have any general input on what they used (length, tension, etc)? Heck, the rudder return springs on my old Grumman took a heck of a lot of force to stretch - I would think we'd want a bit lighter forces, but that's just a guess.

Paul

Why would you want them?

Does the design dictate their use? I know you have a 6 and an 8, and unless you added them, they are not required, or frankly, even desired. I would think on the 3 you would not want the spring force either.
Just curious

Floor mounted -6?

My floor-mounted pedals on Mikey certainly have springs and I'm not sure how the pedals could work without them. Same for the -3. (The -8, of course, has a totalling different rudder system.

Gotcha

Louise Hose said:

My floor-mounted pedals on Mikey certainly have springs and I'm not sure how the pedals could work without them. Same for the -3. (The -8, of course, has a totalling different rudder system.

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Makes sense for that design. Thanks.

Why????

Still don't why they would be required other than to keep tension on the rudder cables. The -3 pedals are floor mounted just like the -8 which doesn't have them. I did have one on my RV-6 (yes only one) and used two aileron trim springs. I used a double loop of .032 safety wire between the
spring and the firewall. I used this as my rudder trim instead of a rudder
tab. I just kept tightening the safery wire loop until the ball was in the center
at cruise (of course the adjustments were made on the ground! It took
several adjustmets to get it right. And then never adjusted it for 800 hours).
This only works on taildraggers as the rudder springs or link at the tailwheel keeps the rudder from flapping in the breeze when parked (unlike a nosedragger). My -8heh didn't require any rudder trim.

Why?

Well of course you're right Tom - they aren't needed to make the airplane work. My -8 has the inflight adjustable pedals, which have that "S-curve" that grabs the pedals,so they don't flop backwards (friction), so I don't miss the springs there at all. So far, in rigging the -3, he pedals just tend to fall backwards more than I like - so I think its aesthetics, really. Aileron trim springs do sound about right for what I want...

Paul

rudder return springs

Iron,

We purchased some springs that fit perfectly to the RV3 VAF plans.
They were purchased at Autozone and they were:
1995-67 GM Throttle, 59209, 024-5423-8, R&B Inc.

They just keep the rudder pedals from falling over backwards. You'll appreciate thier use after wedging yourself in and out of the cockpit a couple of times.

fredbauerjr said:

1995-67 GM Throttle, 59209, 024-5423-8, R&B Inc.

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Thanks Fred - We have an Autozone Aircraft Parts on the corner!

Ironflight said:

<snip>

Does anyone have any general input on what they used (length, tension, etc)? Heck, the rudder return springs on my old Grumman took a heck of a lot of force to stretch - I would think we'd want a bit lighter forces, but that's just a guess.

Click to expand...

Paul,

I've never installed springs on a -3 or -8 or anything, but have spec'ed lots of springs on industrial equipment. As a rough rule of thumb, for max spring life, use no more than 25% of the max allowable spring deflection for normal operation. I.e. If you want 1" of pedal travel, use a spring which allows 4" of deflection.

I suspect that might not be possible based on space constraints, but the closer you can get to that ideal, the longer the springs will last.