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Help with wing order

Freakshow108

Well Known Member
Newbie here! I have searched several of the post regarding this topic and have learned a lot. That being said, I still need help. I?m building a -7 and plan on going IFR. My question is, what is essential to get inside the wings before I get to the point of closing them up?

These are the things I have thought of:

Conduit and or string for future wires
Heated pitot tube with AOA
Servos for auto pilot
?
?
?

Thanks for the help!!!! I have already learned tons from the brain power on this site!!!!!
 
upgraded gas caps
flop tube
capacitive fuel gauges

Don't worry about the wiring. If you put in the conduit you can pull the wires after the wings are on. Even without the conduit, you can easily get into the wing via the access panels to pull any wires.
 
I installed the aileron bellcranks, conduit, leading edge landing light, roll servo and heated pitot prior to riveting the bottom outboard skins on my QB wings. Seems to have worked out well.
 
Plumbng

Pitot/AOA plumbing. Pilot tube mount.
I made sure the bell ranks and serves, etc would go in and even practiced hooking up plumbing before closing up. Glad I did. Easy to connect or even disconnect the plumbing lines.
 
If you are going with Dynon servos, they are easily mounted after the fact using their mounting kits.
 
Landing lights

If you are going with Duckworks leading edge lights, do them before attaching the outboard leading edge to the wing spar. Just finished mine tonight and it would have been harder on an assembled wing.
 
upgraded gas caps
flop tube
capacitive fuel gauges

Don't worry about the wiring. If you put in the conduit you can pull the wires after the wings are on. Even without the conduit, you can easily get into the wing via the access panels to pull any wires.

I installed the aileron bellcranks, conduit, leading edge landing light, roll servo and heated pitot prior to riveting the bottom outboard skins on my QB wings. Seems to have worked out well.

Pitot/AOA plumbing. Pilot tube mount.
I made sure the bell ranks and serves, etc would go in and even practiced hooking up plumbing before closing up. Glad I did. Easy to connect or even disconnect the plumbing lines.

If you are going with Dynon servos, they are easily mounted after the fact using their mounting kits.

If you are going with Duckworks leading edge lights, do them before attaching the outboard leading edge to the wing spar. Just finished mine tonight and it would have been harder on an assembled wing.

Thanks for the tips guys!!!
 
Some thoughts:
- The fuel tank flop tube is useless unless you also install inverted oil system. I put a flop tube on my first RV and then found out I can do a lifetime of aerobatics that do not need a flop tube. There are other disadvantages when compared to the standard fuel pick up strainer. The flop tube rubber bumper does not last forever. My current RV-8 build does not have a flop tube.
- Capacitive fuel senders. Recommend you review the maintenance problems other people have with these. I always use float senders and find with modern EFIS systems and proper calibration they are alway accurate to a gallon or so.
- Pitot and autopilot servo. Decide on the system you want and prep the wing for these componenets. The pitot mount and such should be done during construction. Dynon sells a nice kit for this.

Carl
 
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