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Strong but Removable Glue

istrumit

istrumit

Well Known Member
I am planning to glue a couple of drilled rivet heads to the static ports to cure a low IAS calibration (see my previous threads on this).

After experimenting with layered duct tape, it is time for the next step, actually attaching drilled rivet heads.

But, in case it doesn't work, i need to be able to easily remove them using some sort of glue solvent that won't damage the paint.

Any recommendations on glue type (and solvent if needed).

Thank you,

Scott
 
Just a touch of JB Weld. If you want to remove them you can pop them off easy enough.

The other option is to just replace the ports with AN470AD6-8 rivets. Drill a 1/16" or smaller hole through the center of the rivet for the port. The rivet shank is a good fit for 1/4" tubing, but use a little JB Weld to make sure it does not fall off. I also added a 1/8" thick, 1" diameter aluminum disc with a 3/16" hole, slide over the rivet shank and glued to the inside of the fuselage skin to provide support.

Carl
 
How thick do you need to go? I'd be tempted to use some epoxy (maybe thickened with micro if needed) to form the shape you want, then drill through it. Easy enough to pop off with a knife blade if needed, especially during the first day or so. If you want to glue on a rivet head I'd use epoxy, same deal. Should pop off and if there's any left you could carefully scrape or sand it, no solvent needed.
 
If you glue on rivets (AN 470) and the IAS is too high you can try filing a small amount off the top of the rivets in situ to bring the IAS back a bit rather than removing them. Worked for me.

Fin
9A
 
Another option is canopy glue (sold at hobby shops, brand name RC-56). It's white, dries clear, can be peeled off without solvent and leaves no residue. It's kinda like industrial strength rubber cement.
 
Anybody in your EAA chapter with a lathe? It's easy to turn out a whole static port, compete with barbed hose end. The advantage is that you can go a little bit too tall, then file it down after installation to calibrate precisely.
 
It should pop off easily enough using just a tiny bit of superglue. It did for me.

Having said that, adding a rivet head to my SafeAir ports did increase my indicated speed at the top end, which is what I needed, but it also increased my indicated stall speed at the bottom which I didn't need. YMMV.
 
Why not try something easily removed like rubber cement to establish the right shape and size of rivet head, then use superglue or proseal to affix the permanent set?
 
There's a product called "Barge Cement." Kinda like contact cement glue. When it's time to remove, it'll peel/roll right off in your fingers like a booger.
 
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