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  #21  
Old 09-10-2017, 02:51 PM
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N941WR N941WR is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: SC
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There is at least one -7 out there that was built with manual flaps. (As stated above, electric flaps were an option for the -4 & -6.)

I believe the -7 and above all have electric flaps by default.

When I built my -9, I looked into installing manual flaps and was told that due to the length and design of the slotted flaps, I wouldn't have the strength to deploy them. So, electric flaps it is.

I have had issues with the electric flaps. Early on, some of the motors had too much grease in them and they would stop working at random times.

The fix was to clean out the motor and reassemble it. Since doing that I haven't had an issue.

Not all is sunshine with manual flaps though. During my transition training in a friend's -6, we were on short final with all the flaps deployed. All of a sudden the flaps retracted one notch. I must not have set them properly. We were lucky and other than a minor surprise, we landed normally.
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  #22  
Old 09-10-2017, 08:13 PM
rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Hubbard Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gasman View Post

I do not like the flap motor between the seats. Van just chopped off the handle and installed a L/A as a flap motor. He did move the weldment to the backside of the bulkhead, but created a doghouse between the seats. I would move the flap motor over to the right cargo wall and install it to mount on the seat bulkhead right behind the armrest. No doghouse to make, it takes longer to install the doghouse than the system itself.
I have seen this mod. before. It is very similar to the system on the RV-8 with one exception. The fuselage is much wider so the torsional load on the torque tube is much higher and it will cause a slight asymmetric flap deployment (because of twist in the tube) unless a heavier wall tube is used.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam Buchanan View Post
I forgot to mention that my flap handle was shortened so it would roost against the floor. That gets it out of the way when the flaps are retracted but does require more effort to deploy the flaps.



But I didn't do the mod to prevent a nasty blood blister when you get pinched by the handle plunger....
The button has been redesigned so that it no longer has the relief notch which solves the finger pinch problem.
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  #23  
Old 09-10-2017, 08:23 PM
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flytoboat flytoboat is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Collinsville, IL
Posts: 555
Default One more opinion...

I adopted my RV6A w/tip-up canopy from the original builder 4 years and almost 400 hours ago. I asked a friend who was very familiar with this airplane if there was anything he would change on the airplane. He said the first thing he would do is replace the manual flaps with electric. I looked up the parts and IIRC, the total came to about $600.00. My first priority was to add a fuel flow transducer to the GRT EIS4000 engine monitor. By the time I got around to thinking about replacing the flaps, I decided I'd rather spend the money on AVGAS. The only issue I have is if my right seater is on the larger size, they have to pull their left arm over in front of them so I can work the handle. I have several hundred hours in Cherokees so a manual flap handle didn't bother me.
I should say that the guy who suggested changing to electric flaps built a 6A with a slider so I shouldn't have been listening to him anyway. ***Flame Suit On***
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  #24  
Old 09-10-2017, 09:28 PM
gasman gasman is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Sonoma County
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rvbuilder2002 View Post
I have seen this mod. before. It is very similar to the system on the RV-8 with one exception. The fuselage is much wider so the torsional load on the torque tube is much higher and it will cause a slight asymmetric flap deployment (because of twist in the tube) unless a heavier wall tube is used.


The button has been redesigned so that it no longer has the relief notch which solves the finger pinch problem.
I did go to the next size tube. It just fit over the stock tube. I just cut off the ends and heliarc'ed them onto the bigger dia. tube, bored out the bearing blocks and dropped it in. I also had to weld a saddle tab to receive the end of the L/A. For support I mounted the top of the L/A right behind the armrest.
Due to the shorter throw in that configuration, I did install a limit switch.
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  #25  
Old 09-11-2017, 10:17 AM
Chattin35 Chattin35 is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Boise, ID
Posts: 190
Default Keep the manual flaps

If the -7 had a manual flap option, I would have definitely done that instead of electric, FWIW.

Advantages to manual flaps:

- Less stuff to fail
- Much faster extend/retract
- Less expensive
- Lighter(?)
- Save a wire run
- Better for certain STOL techniques
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  #26  
Old 09-11-2017, 06:02 PM
myrv6180 myrv6180 is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Blairsville,GA
Posts: 44
Default Manual flaps

My 6,8102C has manual flaps. Wouldn't have it any other way. They are quick ,simple and easy to get on and off. Also no mistake knowing where they are. That's the way I built it 22 years ago.
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  #27  
Old 09-11-2017, 07:08 PM
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JonJay JonJay is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Battleground
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I don't think it is a dumb idea. 90% of my flying is solo and my back side is small so operation of the handle is easy. I enjoy the feedback as you engage them.
I put in electric flaps because "that is what you did" as you had to have all the options right?
I have no issues with electric. I also don't operate in any conditions that manual would be impactful. RV's are very capable either way. I wouldn't go through all the work on a flying airplane to change but I understand if someone wants too. I also wouldn't change to electric if I had manual.
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  #28  
Old 09-12-2017, 05:26 PM
schaplerrh schaplerrh is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Alexandria VA
Posts: 210
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I'm 6' 4" with a 36" sleeve length and find manual flaps in an RV6 nearly impossible to use because my elbow hits the seat back before I can fully lift the flap handle. I like manual flap and manual trim where practical but, for me, not in a 6. Concur with advice above: fly before your buy (or decide).
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  #29  
Old 09-13-2017, 08:00 AM
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Snowflake Snowflake is offline
 
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Location: Victoria, BC, Canada
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I've thought about switching to electric flaps once in a while, mostly to get the flap handle out from between the seats. But then I go fly and every once in a while appreciate the quick response of the manual flaps, and that makes me forget about electric.
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