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  #1  
Old 09-07-2017, 02:53 PM
Lynnb's Avatar
Lynnb Lynnb is offline
 
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Location: Cedar Hill, TX
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Default McMaster Door Seal edge forming

So I've searched and read a lot on fitting the mcmaster door seals. Several people reference using a piece of seal to form the correct edge profile, but I can't find any exact detail. So my question(s) are:

1. Do you slide the door seal on and then inject it with epoxy/cabosil mix and then slide it out of the way to form the proper door frame thickness?

2. Do you put a release agent/tape on the inside of the mcmaster seal channel, inject it with epoxy/cabosil mix, let it set-up and then remove it?

3. Some other magic?

Thanks in advance,
Lynn
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  #2  
Old 09-07-2017, 03:01 PM
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digidocs digidocs is offline
 
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1. Sand down edge as required for seal to fit correctly all around the opening
2. Cut 2-3x 12-24" segments of seal
3. Mask frame where you don't want epoxy
4. Fill seal segments with flox+epoxy and then smoosh into place around door frame --- ensure the segments are fully seated (no release required)
5. Pull masking tape off
6. Wait for epoxy to cure and then peel off seal segments
7. Repeat until done

David
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  #3  
Old 09-07-2017, 03:41 PM
rocketman1988 rocketman1988 is offline
 
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Location: Sunman, IN
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Default and...

Remove any excess smooshed out epoxy.

Make SURE the seal is fully seated when you install it, especially in the corners. I ended up starting in the corner, setting the seal, working out from the corner. If you start on a straight section, when you get to the corner and seat the seal it can stretch. When you walk away, the seal will try and contract, pulling it from the corner. (Don't ask how I know this). If you start in the corner, there will be no stretching into the corner...FWIY...

You will probably destroy the seal pieces used for molds when you remove them...
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Last edited by rocketman1988 : 09-07-2017 at 03:47 PM.
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  #4  
Old 09-07-2017, 08:28 PM
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Lynnb Lynnb is offline
 
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Thanks, this is exactly what I was looking for. Also good to know I was going the wrong direction with cabosil instead I'll mix in flox.

Lynn
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  #5  
Old 09-08-2017, 07:41 AM
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Bill Boyd Bill Boyd is offline
 
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Default I used this technique

My original order of 25 feet of seal left me with about 2.5 feet leftover, which I used as a mold. Eventually the removal process ripped the innards out of the C-channel. For the second door, I used the piece I cut for final installation as the mold. Removal once did not seem to harm it at all. I wouldn't try it a 4th or 5th time, though, and expect to re-use it for a final installation.

Just a data point.
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  #6  
Old 09-08-2017, 09:42 AM
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Lynnb Lynnb is offline
 
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Thanks, I just checked and I have 50 foot, so I should have plenty to burn.

Lynn
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  #7  
Old 09-08-2017, 03:49 PM
RV10Pilot RV10Pilot is offline
 
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Curious. Why are you building up / forming the edge. What is wrong with just sanding down the frame edge and slipping on the door seal?
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  #8  
Old 09-08-2017, 04:47 PM
rocketman1988 rocketman1988 is offline
 
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Default Well

That would have been really nice...unfortunately, the flange varies in thickness from less than 1/8 to more than 5/16. The seal is made for 1/4...
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Aerospace Engineer '88

RV-10
Structure - 90% Done
Cabin Top - Aaarrghhh...
Doors - Done
On Gear
290 HP Barrett Hung
ShowPlanes Cowl with Skybolts Fitted - Beautiful

Dues Paid 2016,...Thanks DR+
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  #9  
Old 09-08-2017, 09:13 PM
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Bill Boyd Bill Boyd is offline
 
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Besides, by the time you grind away enough of the doorway edge for a 1/4" gap for the bulb seal to fit in, that edge is knife-edge cross-section in many places.
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  #10  
Old 09-11-2017, 09:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Boyd View Post
Besides, by the time you grind away enough of the doorway edge for a 1/4" gap for the bulb seal to fit in, that edge is knife-edge cross-section in many places.
So true, already drew blood once!
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