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  #1  
Old 09-06-2017, 08:54 PM
bk1bennett's Avatar
bk1bennett bk1bennett is offline
 
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Default RV-14 Rudder trailing edge drilling and countersinking

Problem: find a simple solution to drilling the trailing edge. I was looking at the cross-section of the R-916-1 trailing edge and concluded that a scrap piece would make a great drill guide because of its shape. It has a nice, well-defined grove in the back with the vertex going through the chord line. The requirement is to have the drill axis perpendicular to the trailing-edge chord line. Because the trailing edge is sharp and because of the small angles, it works very well to clamp a scrap piece to the drill table and to slide the sharp edge of the trailing edge to be drilled into the groove of a scrap piece that is clamped to the table. It works because the groove sits, approximately, the same distance above the drill table whether one side of the trailing edge is flat on the table or tilted with the chord line parallel to the table (the geometrically correct configuration). I am happy with the results I got. Photos:


Drill guide is clamped to the drill press table. To drill, the trailing edge slides into the guide with the sharp edge nested into the groove on the thick side of the scrap (the drill guide).


Get a firm clamp to the drill table.


The countersinks have an asymmetrical shape on both sides because they are not perpendicular to the surface. They are perpendicular to the chord line.


A rivet, sitting upside-down on the table and going thru one of the holes is aligned correctly.
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Last edited by bk1bennett : 09-06-2017 at 09:05 PM.
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Old 09-06-2017, 10:56 PM
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But keep in mind that it's only the hole that should be drilled perpendicular to the wedge chord line (preferably drilled with the skins in place). The countersink needs to be done perpendicular to each side of the wedge so that the dimpled skin will fit down into the hole. Make a dimple in a piece of .020 scrap and confirm that it will fit flush to the wedge after countersinking (you need a deeper countersink for a dimpled skin than for a rivet head by itself).
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Old 09-06-2017, 11:00 PM
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I'll add that (per the plans) you need to grind down the pilot on one of your countersink bits because it is not going straight into the hole, it's going at an angle (again...hole is perpendicular to wedge chord, countersinks are perpendicular to wedge faces).
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  #4  
Old 09-07-2017, 09:24 AM
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Yikes. OK. Looks like I'll be redoing this operation to get the right countersinks. I think I was shallow enough so far that it should not be a problem.

The elevator instructions are much more detailed, with a nice image of why you have to grind the pilot of the countersink.

Thanks, guys! Saved me a ton of rework.
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Last edited by bk1bennett : 09-07-2017 at 09:29 AM.
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Old 09-07-2017, 10:51 AM
rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
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Chapter 5.8 of SECTION 5 in the construction manual has additional general details regarding hole prep on trailing edge material.
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  #6  
Old 09-08-2017, 02:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rvbuilder2002 View Post
Chapter 5.8 of SECTION 5 in the construction manual has additional general details regarding hole prep on trailing edge material.
Yes, thanks!
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Old 09-08-2017, 07:05 PM
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You had the right idea, just a slightly wrong angle. Cleveland Tool sells a jig to deal with TE stock counter sinking.

http://www.cleavelandtool.com/Drill-.../#.WbM9h8aQzv0
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Old 09-08-2017, 09:42 PM
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Thanks so much for the advice. I followed the Section 5.8 instructions and it came together nicely! My initial idea for the thru-hole worked great, and I did countersinking following the section 5.8 illustrations.





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Last edited by bk1bennett : 09-14-2017 at 02:26 PM. Reason: Added photos
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