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Old 09-05-2017, 01:03 PM
Auburntsts's Avatar
Auburntsts Auburntsts is online now
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Dumfries, VA
Posts: 2,538

Originally Posted by Toobuilder View Post
While a booster (or EI) will certainly help, it has been my experience that they aren't required to get the fire lit. My Rocket flew quite a while on straight Slicks. No issues with starts - hot or cold.
Well, I'd say here are no absolutes as there are a number of variables involved that will affect starting -- battery age, time on the starting mag, etc. There have been cases where 540s started just fine on a retard mag alone without a starting vibrator (eg SlickStart). But over time, starting became progressively more difficult to the point of not starting at all.
Todd Stovall
RV-10 N728TT - Flying!
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Old 09-05-2017, 01:24 PM
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MauleDriver MauleDriver is offline
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Lake Ridge Aero Park - Durham NC
Posts: 164

FWIW - I have the Van's standard ignition - 2 mags, 1 retard, and a Slickstart. Simple has worked for me for the occasional hot start independent of 'how hot'.

I keep the boost pump off, crack the throttle just as for a normal start, leave the mixture alone and start cranking until something fires. Then I feed in some mixture and rumble along until things settle down.

If nothing fires I stop cranking. Turn on the boost for 2 or 3 seconds, turn it off, and try again. If nothing fires at that point, it's a cold start and I just do the normal stuff.
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Old 09-05-2017, 08:14 PM
togaflyer togaflyer is offline
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Cleveland Ga
Posts: 446

if your doing a short turn around, after shut down open your cowl oil door and let some heat escape while your fueling, eating, etc.

Having owned a Turbo Saratoga (a beast when it comes to a hot start) I was taught this method. It has always worked well for me.
First method: Do not turn on your fuel pump to prime. Mixture off, throttle full open. Crank the engine. If it starts have your hands on both the throttle and mixture because things happen quick. Bring mixture open and reduce throttle quickly to idle, and as needed to avoid high RPMs.

If it doesn't start after an attempt, open mixture, run fuel pump a couple seconds max, then off. Then follow the same procedures as above.
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Old 09-06-2017, 10:51 AM
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Champ Champ is offline
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Kingsville, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 208

We were also having hot start problems with our IO375, dual PMags, Precision Airmotive EX-5VA1 no return servo. Tried different procedures. Latest one that seems to be working is taken from Diamonds manual using a similar engine and procedure used by local Aztec owner. Namely - like others, but leave the boost pump on. Throttle open to 1000 rpm spot, mixture ICO to full rich for 1 to 3 seconds hot, 3 to 5 seconds cold. Crank with ICO & advance mixture as engine fires. I have printed this procedure to a revised checklist but haven't laminated it yet - we'll see.
Dennis Enns
Kingsville, ON
Bellanca Champ 7ACA since 1986, restored 1990.
RV-8 IO375, Hartzell CS, dual PMags.
Dues paid thru Dec 22, 2018
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Old 09-07-2017, 06:11 AM
WAustin WAustin is offline
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Denmark
Posts: 13
Default Not IO540 but IO360 hot start issues


I used to have huge issues with my io360 hot starts in the RV7A. Other planes with the same setup would start effortlessly in comparison. It got to the point I hated going anywhere unless it was overnight and I could cold start.

Finally discovered that there was a range of Slick Mags that had a wear issue with the cam. Mine wasnt in the list of affected mags, but was 'just' outside the range. Basically, the wear caused the mag to advance so the spark was further BTDC. Mine got out to about 33 degrees BTDC instead of the 25 expected. I ended up replacing the mag... no more hot start issues.

Current hot start procedure is described above:

Crack throttle, turn the key, feed in mixture until it fires..... works EVERY time now.

I found a multitude of hot start procedures when investigating the original issue. I have a 2 page Word document with them all listed! One thing I have followed is to let the engine idle at 1000rpm prior to shut down for about a minute. Don't know if its really helping, but I'm not going to complain when my aircraft now hot starts easily.

No longer worried about going out for that day trip and having to hot start at any time.


Western Australia
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Old 09-07-2017, 08:23 AM
Jasonm Jasonm is offline
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: KAVL
Posts: 280

Originally Posted by WAustin View Post

... It got to the point I hated going anywhere unless it was overnight and I could cold start.
I've got lots of great info once again from others here and am anxious to try it.

Thanks all!
Jason McKay
"Phase 1 - 05/26 - 07/02"

2017 Dues Paid
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Old 09-08-2017, 02:35 PM
WrightsRV7 WrightsRV7 is offline
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Hurricane Utah
Posts: 148
Default a bit different approach...

I take a somewhat different approach from above. I make and assume flooded. I prime for 2 seconds with throttle at idle, mixture in. Then quickly put it at full throttle, mixture full lean, start cranking til start then quickly put throttle in followed by mixture in. The only way to clear out gas from the cylinders is with the throttle advanced, the more the better for clearing a flooded engine. Very rarely have I ever had to use more than one shot at a hot start. This results in a bit more a rpm burst, but usually under 1500, it is a hot, so a lubricated engine for the most part; hence, the extra RPM does not worry me compared to a normal cold start where I shoot for 1000 RPM. Works well on the all the IO-engines I have flown which is quite a few 4 and 6 cylinder models.
Michael Wright
Dues paid 2017
RV7 built & sold, 500h of pure joy in the air: sold
RV10 slow build & flying & loving it
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