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  #81  
Old 08-31-2017, 09:27 AM
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rongawer rongawer is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Brentwood, CA
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Default

A couple things:
- For The nose fork wheel pant "upgrade" part number isn't available through the Van's web store, but if you call them, it's $20 and is essentially a couple new brackets and hardware.

- The dye penetrant kit will last for many uses, so don't get sticker shock at the initial price. I have a kit over 5 years old and still going; I believe the shelf life was something like 10 years.

- I agree that it's unreasonable to expect "all my landings are greasers". Thanks for posting photos of your cracks. I haven't flown mine yet, but based on this, I'm going to plan to swap out the fork at my first annual. I agree with others that the cost of ~$350 for both the fork and pant hardware is a good insurance policy.
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  #82  
Old 08-31-2017, 09:28 AM
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snopercod snopercod is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AllThumbs View Post
This one happened with about 700 hours...
I noticed that the aluminum "grain" on that fork is vertical. Isn't aluminum supposed to be bent at 90 degrees to the grain? But what do I know, I'm a fiberglass guy
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  #83  
Old 08-31-2017, 09:50 AM
waterboy2110 waterboy2110 is offline
 
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If you're going down the die pen road I would recommend removing any paint on the fork.
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  #84  
Old 09-02-2017, 05:12 PM
omerward omerward is offline
 
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Does anyone have a photo of the beefed up replacement nose fork?
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  #85  
Old 09-02-2017, 05:48 PM
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Tony_T Tony_T is offline
 
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Location: Seattle, WA
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Here are the two upgrade kits. The blue bracket parts on the right are the wheel fairing kit needed to adapt the nose wheel fairing to the new fork.


This fork is one beefy hunk of metal alright. Some have said it is ugly, but it looks good to me; I like it. It will be inside the fairing anyway most of the time.

I notice that the design of the axle has been changed so the axle bolt can now be torque tightened without danger of over-tightening the pressure on the wheel bearings. The wheel is kept centered in the fork by 2 wavy washers on each side. Nice change.
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  #86  
Old 09-02-2017, 07:57 PM
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KALEWIS KALEWIS is offline
 
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Tony

Is the adapter kit for the fairing non - intrusive as to not disrupt a painted plane/fairing ?
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  #87  
Old 09-02-2017, 09:04 PM
omerward omerward is offline
 
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Tony, thanks for the quick reply and photo. That doesn't look so bad to me. I think I could live with it. Didn't know what to expect with the earlier negative comments. Mine is fine so far but I may just go ahead and replace it anyway. Why take a chance?
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  #88  
Old 09-02-2017, 09:08 PM
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Tony_T Tony_T is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KALEWIS View Post
Tony

Is the adapter kit for the fairing non - intrusive as to not disrupt a painted plane/fairing ?
Yes, I think that is the case. You have to remove the existing CCR-264SS-3-2 rivets and replace theU-00006A right and left brackets. These rivets are not visible when the rear part of the fairing is installed. See 36A-09, Figure 2.

I haven't completed this yet so that's unverified right now, but it looks easy .
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  #89  
Old 11-23-2017, 09:21 PM
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John C John C is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Moundridge, KS
Posts: 128
Default fracture surface

Has any one examined the fracture surfaces? Is there fatigue or is it all static overload? In post 48, I suspect that the strut failure is after the fact. In post 78, I see 45 degree shear lips and possibly some striations, but the photos are not sufficent. 45 degree shear lips are consistent with static overload and striations, if present, would be consistent with fatigue.

If there is no fatigue, then we are likely looking at static overload. The part may have failed under a single load.

If there is fatigue, there was an initiating event and the crack continued to grow. The question is how fast would it grow and how often would you need to inspect once the crack started. If this is a fatigue issue, you may be missing a very small crack that at some point grows very rapidly, under small loads.

In post 78, the crack at the tow bar bolt puzzles me. Why would uploading on the wheel introduce a crack above the tow bar bolt?

Does anyone have good photos of the fracture surfaces? Has anyone opened up the fractures?
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  #90  
Old 11-27-2017, 09:37 AM
Peterk Peterk is offline
 
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Location: Texas
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Default Another Nose Fork

I removed my wheel pants over a year ago just to be able to look for a nose gear crack prior to each flight (and after) My RV 12 was one of the first ten built (2009) and now has close to 900 hours of landings.

I flew from North Texas to Norman Oklahoma yesterday and back. After returning I found a crack exactly where the lower circle is on SB 16-05-23. It was NOT there when I left Norman. I have always used virtually full-stall landing techniques and never on unimproved strips.

I was debating if it was a function of poor landing technique, hours or just poor design. Still don't know for sure of course but my greatest fear was ripping off my prop so I was anal about checking it. That part worked out.

Keep on eye on yours.
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