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  #11  
Old 08-19-2017, 12:35 PM
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wjb wjb is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Half Moon Bay, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sglynn View Post
Bill
Where do you plan to put the connectors? If inside the fuselage how will you get them in there? Will you drill a fairly large hole? Or put connector bodies on after running wires inside?
.
Hi Steve,
I was planning on mounting them to the fuse just aft of the aileron pushrod hole.
The DT/DTM connectors have a nice clip that I'll pop-rivet in place. The wing wire bundle will connect to the ones on the fuse. One wing will have two sets of connectors, (1) lighting, (2) roll servo.; the other side just one for lighting/pitot.
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N430WB (reserved) RV-7 #74152, tip-up. Avionics and FF underway!
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  #12  
Old 08-19-2017, 06:15 PM
brad walton brad walton is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Cypress, TX
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I used a Cannon connector. Nice clean and solid. But in retrospect Tom Martin's suggestion looks like a good solution if/when the wings come off. Mine have never been off since final assembly.
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  #13  
Old 08-19-2017, 06:26 PM
ty1295 ty1295 is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Jeffersonville, IN
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Did this on mine, bought a weatherpak kit for cars that is designed for weather, water, etc. Bit spendy to get the kit and proper tools, but came out nice and I can easily pull the pins out if I need to get thru a grommet, etc.
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  #14  
Old 08-19-2017, 06:46 PM
RV7ator RV7ator is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Boise, ID
Posts: 926
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The first place to look for an electrical problem is at the circuit connections. By adding three connections (each contact and contact-to-contact) you've increased failure potential, let alone complexity, and to what good? I ran unbroken wires from the panel/fuses to the wing accessories with little trouble. A few wires and some coax (ah, yes, .3db loss per connector!) will be the very least of my worries if I have to pull a wing. And that's never happened, and never will unless something really nasty happens. The only time someone might want to pull wings is paint after test flights. In that case, pulling the wires takes less time than the installation of a fuse/wing connector.
John Siebold

Last edited by RV7ator : 08-19-2017 at 06:49 PM.
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  #15  
Old 08-20-2017, 08:10 AM
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RV7Guy RV7Guy is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Chandler, AZ
Posts: 2,774
Default Connectors

This has been done many ways obviously. Some with connectors, some without. I had connectors on my first RV and installed connectors on the new one. It's a little more work up front but really worth it when it comes time to remove the wings for paint or any other reason. I also have the same type of connectors for the wing tips. Super easy. You can also see the BNC for an antenna. There are two of these on the other wing.

[IMG][/IMG]
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Last edited by RV7Guy : 08-20-2017 at 08:16 AM.
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  #16  
Old 08-20-2017, 08:16 AM
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RV7Guy RV7Guy is offline
 
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Location: Chandler, AZ
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Default Second photo

Here's the second one.

[IMG][IMG][/IMG][/IMG]
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Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
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RV-7 N717EE-Flying (Sold)
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  #17  
Old 08-20-2017, 10:41 AM
Lars Lars is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Davis, CA
Posts: 916
Default underseat terminal block

Here's a photo from my RV-7 build if it helps. I've done a couple of RV's this way now. As Steve mentioned, I found that it simplified the wiring. They are under my butt, in the bay next to the center tunnel. Crotch belt mount is visible at center left for orientation purposes.

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  #18  
Old 08-20-2017, 01:54 PM
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Lemmingman Lemmingman is offline
 
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Location: McKinney, TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lars View Post
Here's a photo from my RV-7 build if it helps. I've done a couple of RV's this way now. As Steve mentioned, I found that it simplified the wiring. They are under my butt, in the bay next to the center tunnel. Crotch belt mount is visible at center left for orientation purposes.

Lars, do you have the terminal blocks seated on a tray?
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McKinney, TX EAA-1246
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  #19  
Old 08-21-2017, 08:33 AM
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airguy airguy is offline
 
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Location: Garden City, Tx
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I installed DB9 connectors at the wing root to match DB9 in the wing, but I would not do it again. The time spent versus the likelihood of needing them just doesn't make sense to me (now after the fact).
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  #20  
Old 08-21-2017, 01:20 PM
rightrudder rightrudder is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Laguna Hills, CA
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I used terminal blocks and ring connectors for the position lights/strobes, and just hardwired everything else, leaving a little slack for a future cut & splice. The only time the wings will ever come off is for transport, if I'm ever unlucky enough to have an off-airport landing.
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