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  #101  
Old 09-06-2017, 09:38 AM
jeffw@sc47's Avatar
jeffw@sc47 jeffw@sc47 is offline
 
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Location: Simpsonville, SC (SC47)
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If you are going to install the Ray Allen Flap Position Sensor (Section 54) or even if you are not sure that you will, drill the hole in WD-1013A called out in 54-02, Step 3 while you are installing that crank in Section Page 34-04.

The amount of effort to drill that hole after the crank is installed is significant, or you can remove the crank, drill the hole and reinstall it. Even if you do not use that hole you are better off doing it at 34-04.

UPDATE 9/9/17:
I say again, SIGNIFICANT effort to remove the crank WD-1013A after it is installed. The note to refer to 34-04 for un-installing it is that you undo what it told you to do there. It is now a bit more difficult because there are a few more things in the way, etc. I originally did drill a hole in the crank with a right angle air drive drill - that wasn't significantly difficult, it was close to impossible! You have so little clearance that I had to cut off and shorten a drill at both ends so that there was enough untwisted shank to grip in the chuck and then re-point the dill bit cutting end. There was enough drill bit length then to get into the close quarters between the crank and the under-floor rib. You can't center punch the drill location; it's hard enough just to see it. I did my best to measure for the location of the hole and get it in the right place. But, the crank is powder coated which makes it 'slippery', it ended up walking a little and off by about 3/32". Plus it hard steel and I had to resharpen the bit twice.The whole process to drill that hole while the crank is in-place was VERY difficult. In all, it took about 3 hours+, and not in the right place.

Now I am removing the crank per the instructions and going through a whole new series of tight quarter body contortion and leg cramps. I feel that I need to get the hole in the right place and I have enough room to do that that is far enough from the first hole. And, I will have to reinstall the crank in those same close quarters.

The easiest thing to do if you have not installed the flap crank is to go ahead and drill that little hole that needs to be in there BEFORE you do install it. I hope that Van's revises the instructions to do just that, it will save much time and effort.

I did not use the bent rod for a sensor connection. I used RC model parts, two swivel ball joint ends, one jam nut, installed on a steel welding rod with 4/40 die cut threads held to the sensor on the crank with small RC hardware machine screws and nuts. I drilled a #44 hole.

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Simpsonville, SC (SC47)
1946 Bellanca Cruisair 14-13-2 (71 YRS OLD 8/15/17)
RV14A (N14ZT), Ser#140195
Start 10/11/14
IO-390 Lyc Tbolt / CS Hartzell - Currently FWF Kit
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Last edited by jeffw@sc47 : 09-10-2017 at 12:27 PM.
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  #102  
Old 09-07-2017, 07:53 AM
MED MED is online now
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Aiken, SC
Posts: 140
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I checked with Gus at Van's and he sent me Section 54, which is not on the Van's website. He said they installed the sensor after their RV-14 was flying. It looks like it is pretty doable in-place with a 90 degree drill. Probably an even hassle with removing 5 bolts/nuts and some safety wire to get at it now. Besides, I'm not certain I will install the sensor, since I can just look out the window at the flaps. Thanks for the warning, though.
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  #103  
Old 09-18-2017, 10:25 AM
control control is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Stockholm, Sweden
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Chapter 35, canopy release mechanism

Nothing wrong with the plans but a little warning:

1. I was probably a little scared of the edge distance when drilling the release push rods and drilled the holes a tiny distance more inwards, making the rods stick out little bit longer.

2. I was scared of removing to much when doing the radius of the four corners of the C-01434 Canopy Release Pivot Block, did not remove enough.

The two above combined made the push rod bind against the block when trying to operate the mechanism. I solved it be removing it and trimming the corners of the block a little more.


Recommend checking for free movement before attaching the MS21042-3 nut at step 4 on page 35-17.
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  #104  
Old 09-20-2017, 10:06 AM
Nova RV Nova RV is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Leesburg, VA
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The manifold pressure sensor on P. 43-03 calls out p/n 494-30004-02 which is a 50psi sensor but the Garmin std G3X-4CYL Lycoming kit comes with a 30psi sensor for manifold pressure (p/n 494-30004-01). According to Vans this is ok as you won't reach 30psi manifold pressure anyways but the discrepancy does exist in the plans vs what Garmin supplies.
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  #105  
Old 09-23-2017, 12:52 PM
MED MED is online now
 
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Ok Jeffw, I drilled the hole in the flap bracket, and you were right. It was somewhat less of a PITA to just remove the 5 bolts holding the bracket to drill it than it would have been to drill it in place. I have a 90 degree drill and a very short bit, but it was still more than a little awkward to drill in place. Thanks for the warning.
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  #106  
Old 09-23-2017, 02:46 PM
Tom023 Tom023 is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Cypress, TX
Posts: 176
Default Latch Pins

Page 38-06 step 1 has you install the bellcranks and step 2 the latch pins. I found it impossible to install the pins with the bellcrank in the way. Slide the pins in first then install the bellcranks.

Edit: I just figured it out and feel like a dumb arse. Slide the pins in from the front side hole end first, I only tried from the back side pointed end first. That 100 degree hangar must have been frying my brain.
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Last edited by Tom023 : 09-23-2017 at 05:38 PM.
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  #107  
Old 09-23-2017, 03:30 PM
MED MED is online now
 
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I just did this step today, and wondered if the latch pins should be flush with the front face of the rollbar. Using the dimensions in the plans, mine sit a little proud of the surface - just a little more than the rivet heads in the latch pin surround. Does anyone know if this is ok. I figure I can always adjust as needed later.
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  #108  
Old Yesterday, 08:20 AM
Tom023 Tom023 is offline
 
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I just checked and mine and both sides protrude 1.5 millimeters. It's easily adjustable by changing the push rod length. I'm leaving as is for now.
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Last edited by Tom023 : Yesterday at 08:33 AM.
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