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  #1  
Old 08-25-2017, 08:00 PM
LUKLA LUKLA is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Phoenix,AZ
Posts: 56
Default engine mount.

Done with the avionics, Now getting ready for the engine 912 ULS. Any suggestion, advise ???


LUKLA
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RV-12
Builder # 120706
N316AM Firewall forward left.
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  #2  
Old 08-26-2017, 08:16 AM
John-G John-G is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Northeast Ohio
Posts: 454
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Kukla ... I don't remember there being any steps in mounting the engine that were difficult ... it is very straight forward actually.

For drilling the 3/8" holes into the firewall, I did use a DeWalt pilot point drill bit. The pilot tip fit the lead hole perfectly .... so it made a nice straight hole. You will want to make sure the steel mount stays tight to the firewall during the drilling and that the lead holes are aligned ... believe I used a pin to hold alignment while the first hole was drilled then inserted the bolt and moved onto the second hole.

Prior to installing the engine, do make sure your engine mounting bolts slide through the washers and spacers and mounts. I discovered mine did not at the time of trying to install the engine .... there was powder coating inside the hole in the washers that prevented the mounting bolts from being inserted into the washers.

On my build, the new muffler design required hogging out the hole in the lower cowl way beyond the scribe lines. Prior to making any cuts for the exhaust pipe, would suggest making sure the muffler assembly is centered under the engine (left to right) then have a friend help you lift the cowl straight up and mark where the exhaust pipe actually touches the lower cowl and work on creating your hole from that point. You won't need the big long slot scribed into the lower cowl because the exhaust pipe now exits the cowl vertically as opposed to the slant it had with the older muffler design.

My preference was to hang the engine prior to cutting and fitting the cowlings and that worked out quite well and having the engine in place did not make the work more difficult. Suppose you could leave the muffler assembly off, fit the cowls then attach the exhaust system and then mark the exhaust pipe hole in the lower cowl ... wish I had done that as opposed to cutting the long slot per the plans only to find out I had the new muffler design which really does not need the long slot.

Those were the main issues as I remember them ... all and all it was a painless process.
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Last edited by John-G : 08-26-2017 at 08:29 AM.
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  #3  
Old 08-26-2017, 11:33 AM
rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Hubbard Oregon
Posts: 6,971
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John-G View Post
You won't need the big long slot scribed into the lower cowl because the exhaust pipe now exits the cowl vertically as opposed to the slant it had with the older muffler design.
That was true for a while but the aft muffler was further refined a couple years ago so that it does have an aft ward slant again.
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  #4  
Old 08-26-2017, 11:59 AM
John-G John-G is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Northeast Ohio
Posts: 454
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rvbuilder2002 View Post
That was true for a while but the aft muffler was further refined a couple years ago so that it does have an aft ward slant again.
Thanks for clarifying that Scott ... I was not aware there was an additional change to the muffler design after the switch to the straight down exhaust design ... of which my RV-12 was one of the first to incorporate.
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Last edited by John-G : 08-26-2017 at 03:58 PM.
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  #5  
Old 08-26-2017, 12:42 PM
LUKLA LUKLA is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Phoenix,AZ
Posts: 56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John-G View Post
Kukla ... I don't remember there being any steps in mounting the engine that were difficult ... it is very straight forward actually.

For drilling the 3/8" holes into the firewall, I did use a DeWalt pilot point drill bit. The pilot tip fit the lead hole perfectly .... so it made a nice straight hole. You will want to make sure the steel mount stays tight to the firewall during the drilling and that the lead holes are aligned ... believe I used a pin to hold alignment while the first hole was drilled then inserted the bolt and moved onto the second hole.

Prior to installing the engine, do make sure your engine mounting bolts slide through the washers and spacers and mounts. I discovered mine did not at the time of trying to install the engine .... there was powder coating inside the hole in the washers that prevented the mounting bolts from being inserted into the washers.

On my build, the new muffler design required hogging out the hole in the lower cowl way beyond the scribe lines. Prior to making any cuts for the exhaust pipe, would suggest making sure the muffler assembly is centered under the engine (left to right) then have a friend help you lift the cowl straight up and mark where the exhaust pipe actually touches the lower cowl and work on creating your hole from that point. You won't need the big long slot scribed into the lower cowl because the exhaust pipe now exits the cowl vertically as opposed to the slant it had with the older muffler design.

My preference was to hang the engine prior to cutting and fitting the cowlings and that worked out quite well and having the engine in place did not make the work more difficult. Suppose you could leave the muffler assembly off, fit the cowls then attach the exhaust system and then mark the exhaust pipe hole in the lower cowl ... wish I had done that as opposed to cutting the long slot per the plans only to find out I had the new muffler design which really does not need the long slot.

Those were the main issues as I remember them ... all and all it was a painless process.

Very Cool, Thank you John.
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RV-12
Builder # 120706
N316AM Firewall forward left.
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  #6  
Old 08-26-2017, 07:21 PM
waterboy2110 waterboy2110 is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 164
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Don't install the cooling shroud if it comes with the kit. It's not needed and it starves #2 cylinder for air until the plenum is fully pressurized while flying.
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  #7  
Old 08-26-2017, 10:08 PM
Gandalf Gandalf is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Medford, OR
Posts: 267
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I bought a pneumatic lift from Harbor Freight and placed the engine on the lift. This allowed me to raise and lower the engine while working on the engine. May not be necessary since the cooling shroud was deleted.

Tighten the throttle so that it cannot accidentally extend and spit out the little bearings during installation. Do not worry too much if the six little bearings fall out. You can call McFarlane and get replacement parts and a link to the repair on utube.

As already stated, NO engine cooling shroud (DELETED).

I had difficulty getting the engine mount to fit over the engine due to added mount gussets not pictured in the instructions.

My muffler fit the cowling fine.

I understand that Van sells a prop spacer if you have inadequate "prop" clearance to the cowling.

You may need to cut one of the springs that fit into the radiator hoses to give a one inch clearance on both ends of the shorter hose.

Have fun,

Jeff
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  #8  
Old 08-27-2017, 12:09 PM
Azjulian Azjulian is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Scottsdale, Arizona
Posts: 116
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The engine is so light that when I installed I had two people hold the engine while I guided onto the mount, makes install really easy.
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  #9  
Old 08-31-2017, 09:50 PM
LUKLA LUKLA is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Phoenix,AZ
Posts: 56
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Thanks a lot folks.
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Glendale AZ
RV-12
Builder # 120706
N316AM Firewall forward left.
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  #10  
Old 09-17-2017, 04:07 PM
mike newall's Avatar
mike newall mike newall is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Yorkshire, England
Posts: 1,405
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Just approaching this area.

Am I getting the order correct, the cowl gets fitted before the engine ?

On previous models, 7 & 8, the cowl was fitted after the engine so that the spinner fitted.
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