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Is my fuel selector valve talking to me?

R

riobison

Well Known Member
I'm doing my annual on my 1998 RV4 with 600 hrs TTAF. I noticed that the fuel selector seemed a little loose in the shaft. I pulled the handle off and checked that the cap was tight and it was. No leaks but just seemed a little wobbly with some slight up and down motion. Never noticed it with the engine running but I do with it sitting in the hanger. The friction to turn it seems normal. I can barely hear/feel the click for the detent but it does make a squeaky sound like its dry.

Is the valve talking to me?

How many pieces in side that could fail? The valve handle uses the small pointy end to point at the tank in use and it has a D shape to it so it only goes on one way.

I'm wondering if this is anything to worry about?

And my tanks are full.....................

Thanks

Tim
 
slight wobble and vertical motion in the fuel valve stem

It's a Vans Design.

It's not so much the noise from the o-rings (I'm assuming) but the slight wobble and vertical motion in the stem. It's this that I'm questioning of being normal? I'd hate to have it quit working when I need it the most. It could seriously spoil my day.

What is normal play in this valve stem? Is there a schematic somewhere that I could view of this valve?

Thanks

Tim
 
Fuel Valve

Tim

They are fairly cheap to buy and replace so when in douht just get a new one for your peace of mind.

I never like the Van's fuel valve to start with so I replaced mine with an Andair's...Worth every penny in my book.

Good luck

Bruno
 
riobison said:
It's a Vans Design.

It's not so much the noise from the o-rings (I'm assuming) but the slight wobble and vertical motion in the stem. It's this that I'm questioning of being normal? I'd hate to have it quit working when I need it the most. It could seriously spoil my day.

What is normal play in this valve stem? Is there a schematic somewhere that I could view of this valve?

Thanks

Tim
Click to expand...

Hi Tim, The Van's valve is up to the task that he chose it for. And will perform AS WELL AS the aftermarket expensive one, with far fewer parts. You can rebuild it for less than a dollar at any ACE hardware or auto parts store.

The play in the shaft is normal. That shaft passes through an "O" ring and then down to the select cone where it is pinned. There is a spring around the shaft that keeps the cone seated. When you slide your fingers under the handle and lift, you can lift the cone off of the seat against the spring. That is also normal. The squeak is the "O" ring.... That is also normal. You can rebuild without removing the valve from your plumbing provided you can get to the TOP of the valve. With the tanks empty, back off the screw, pull up on the valve handle and tap the screw with a screwdriver handle to make the handle release from the taper shaft. Then unscrew the cap and lift out the shaft and cone.

The only parts to replace are 2 "O" rings, one on the shaft, and one on the top.............. Try that with an Aniair $$$ valve. Anyone that has ever had a problem with the stock valve has never taken the time to understand it.

If you want to end up with an expensive airplane, keep purchasing expensive parts that are not needed. Van's demo airplanes use this same valve, and have racked up more hours than you or the Russian will ever see.

Your valve is good........ go fly.......:)
 
refreshing

gasman said:
Hi Tim, The Van's valve is up to the task that he chose it for. And will perform AS WELL AS the aftermarket expensive one, with far fewer parts. You can rebuild it for less than a dollar at any ACE hardware or auto parts store.

The play in the shaft is normal. That shaft passes through an "O" ring and then down to the select cone where it is pinned. There is a spring around the shaft that keeps the cone seated. When you slide your fingers under the handle and lift, you can lift the cone off of the seat against the spring. That is also normal. The squeak is the "O" ring.... That is also normal. You can rebuild without removing the valve from your plumbing provided you can get to the TOP of the valve. With the tanks empty, back off the screw, pull up on the valve handle and tap the screw with a screwdriver handle to make the handle release from the taper shaft. Then unscrew the cap and lift out the shaft and cone.

The only parts to replace are 2 "O" rings, one on the shaft, and one on the top.............. Try that with an Aniair $$$ valve. Anyone that has ever had a problem with the stock valve has never taken the time to understand it.

If you want to end up with an expensive airplane, keep purchasing expensive parts that are not needed. Van's demo airplanes use this same valve, and have racked up more hours than you or the Russian will ever see.

Your valve is good........ go fly.......:)
Click to expand...

It is refreshing to hear that someone other than myself still believes that more expensive is not always the way to go.

CM
 
gasman said:
Hi Tim, The Van's valve is up to the task that he chose it for. And will perform AS WELL AS the aftermarket expensive one, with far fewer parts. You can rebuild it for less than a dollar at any ACE hardware or auto parts store.

The play in the shaft is normal. That shaft passes through an "O" ring and then down to the select cone where it is pinned. There is a spring around the shaft that keeps the cone seated. When you slide your fingers under the handle and lift, you can lift the cone off of the seat against the spring. That is also normal. The squeak is the "O" ring.... That is also normal. You can rebuild without removing the valve from your plumbing provided you can get to the TOP of the valve. With the tanks empty, back off the screw, pull up on the valve handle and tap the screw with a screwdriver handle to make the handle release from the taper shaft. Then unscrew the cap and lift out the shaft and cone.

The only parts to replace are 2 "O" rings, one on the shaft, and one on the top.............. Try that with an Aniair $$$ valve. Anyone that has ever had a problem with the stock valve has never taken the time to understand it.

If you want to end up with an expensive airplane, keep purchasing expensive parts that are not needed. Van's demo airplanes use this same valve, and have racked up more hours than you or the Russian will ever see.

Your valve is good........ go fly.......:)
Click to expand...



^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^
Totally agree with this.

This type of valve does require some occasional maint.
Besides replacing the o-ring mentioned, a very light coating of fuel lube on the valve cone and o-ring is a good idea (yea, that is one of the this it is actually intended for).

If when you disassemble it, you find that it is one of the older style with the bronze cones, I would suggest that at some point you replace it with the newer style (no need to rush if it still works smoothly), as they have been far less problematic once the airplane gets a bit older.
 
Thanks for the help here. A couple of years back when I had purchased a box of used tools for building an RV, in the box was a spare Vans valve.
Found the valve and took it apart, it is simple enough. Between the 2 valves there is a substantial difference in feel. So I will drain my tanks and swap out the valve. I'll make a post here on what I find inside the worn valve for future reference.

Thanks

Tim
 
Got the tanks drained and the valve out. Found that there was a substantial amount of play in the teflon ball where the pin goes through it. O-rings were very dry so it was tight taking it apart. So rather than mess with it I changed out to a new valve and all is good for another 500 or 600 hrs.
 
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