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  #21  
Old 06-09-2006, 10:00 AM
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cjensen cjensen is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Milwaukee, WI area
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Update on my tanks-

I've finished riveting the right tank interior ribs using the method Rick spoke about earlier in this thread. I did the first rib using the method most people use, and that of the instrucitons given. That proved to be extremely messy, and time consuming (and stressful). The remaining four ribs on the right tank were fay sealed with 100% clecos, and then set aside for 24 hours. The only time I used gloves for this step was to clean the excess sealant with MEK from the skin from sliding the ribs in to place. I had one little dab of sealant on my index finger when finished. Step 1 done.

24 hours later, I wet installed each rivet by removing two clecos then skipping one, then removing two...The rivets set MUCH easier, and with better shop heads. THEN I put on gloves to clean up with MEK. Again, just a little dab of sealant on my index finger from pushing the rivets in to place. Step 2 complete. I will set this tank aside while I repeat steps one and two with the left tank.

Step 3 will be to simply cover the shop heads and fillet seal the ribs. I use the sealant gun and a cartrige, and a popsickle stick, and probably won't put gloves on do this step either, until I need to clean up using MEK.

This is just my experience with this method to date. It's been a much easier experience than I thought it was going to be, and much cleaner.

I also ran this method by all of our A&P's in my shop before I started it, and all of them agreed it to be a totally acceptable method to sealing the tanks.

.02 And thanks Rick!

I'll report back when they are completed, hopefully next week sometime.
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  #22  
Old 06-26-2006, 04:57 AM
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MrNomad MrNomad is offline
 
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Location: Tucson, AZ
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Exclamation Proseal and auto gas with ethanol

Can someone please confirm or deny that the use of auto gas that may have ethanol or alcohol in it will affect Proseal and cause my QB tanks to leak?

Is this another myth or is it true?
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  #23  
Old 06-26-2006, 09:29 AM
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cjensen cjensen is offline
 
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I finished my tanks yesterday! I have not leak tested them yet, but I have to say that using the method described in this thread proved to be CLEAN, and EFFICIENT!



I did not have a pile of rags to dispose of after each session, I did not get sealant all over everything or myself, and clean up was a snap! I did get sealant on my fingers from wet installing rivets, and a dab or two on the table that was easily wiped up, but I can say I prefer this method hands down!
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  #24  
Old 06-26-2006, 04:48 PM
glenmthompson glenmthompson is offline
 
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Default wow!

Looks like beautiful work Chad! Congrats! I bet your wings will be very smooth!
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  #25  
Old 06-27-2006, 10:14 AM
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Rick_A Rick_A is offline
 
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Location: Highland Village, TX
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Default Ethanol reply / measuring question.

Regarding ethanol, the proseal is not the issue, the bare aluminum is the concern. My understanding is that aircraft that are running on 100% ethanol alodine the tanks and fuel lines.

What do you guys use to measure small amounts of Proseal? So far I've only been using proseal on my QB for "non fuel system" stuff, so I haven't worried much about getting the ratio exact. My eyeball seemed to work better than my cheap postal scale when it came to mixing small amounts. Any recommendations on scales or measuring devices for mixing small amounts of Proseal?
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  #26  
Old 06-27-2006, 01:01 PM
alpinelakespilot2000 alpinelakespilot2000 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick_A
What do you guys use to measure small amounts of Proseal? So far I've only been using proseal on my QB for "non fuel system" stuff, so I haven't worried much about getting the ratio exact. My eyeball seemed to work better than my cheap postal scale when it came to mixing small amounts. Any recommendations on scales or measuring devices for mixing small amounts of Proseal?
Digital Kitchen scale is what I used. If you use your wife's, though, definitely put the whole scale in a ziploc bag first and don't clean proseal off the LCD display with MEK! How do I know this??? Good luck.
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  #27  
Old 06-27-2006, 11:25 PM
N674P N674P is offline
 
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Location: Vancouver, WA
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Default digital postal scale with tare function

I picked up a digital postal scale at Office Max (or Depot) for 33 bucks a few months ago that works great! They had scales that were 2-3 times as expensive that didn't look like they would do what I wanted. This one (Sunbeam? not handy to check brand) will measure in ounces or grams, and has a tare function so you're only measuring product. I also have a couple corelle plates dedicated to proseal, so chances of slopping proseal on the scale are minimal. The plates are handy for measuring and mixing both, and are easily cleaned up when done.
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  #28  
Old 08-04-2006, 12:57 PM
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Kenneth Kenneth is offline
 
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I'm about ready to start sealing up my tanks and am seriously thinking about using this method. It seems really clean and easy compared to Van's instructions and I'm all for that.

I have a couple questions before I dive in, however. When you use the term "fay sealing" what exactly is meant by this? Also, do you apply sealant to both the rib flange and the skin, or just to one surface before squishing 'em together? Finally, how do you remove the sealant that has oozed into the dimple and set up while waiting before riveting?

Thanks again for posting this method to the board!

--Ken
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  #29  
Old 08-04-2006, 05:18 PM
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Rick6a Rick6a is offline
 
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Location: Lake St. Louis, MO.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kenneth
..........When you use the term "fay sealing" what exactly is meant by this? Also, do you apply sealant to both the rib flange and the skin, or just to one surface before squishing 'em together? Finally, how do you remove the sealant that has oozed into the dimple and set up while waiting before riveting?--Ken
Kenneth,

A faying surface is that surface to which sealer is applied. To answer your second question, you can apply the sealer to the skin or the rib flange or my personal preference....both parts. I do the best I can with the skin surface but I also like to spread the sealer on the rib flange evenly to insure complete coverage. A plastic knife works well. Like spreading butter on toast. After clecoing the rib in place, it is important that the squeezed out sealer be worked smooth into an uninterrupted "fillet" seal completely around the parts. There are special filleting spoons to do this but a popsicle stick will work.

The next day when you remove the clecos, you will have to clean
the countersinks up a bit but that's no big deal....simply wipe off the sealer with a solvent moistened rag or even your fingernail. I've even run a countersink or 100 degree deburring tool over holes in which the sealer has cured to a fairly hard consistency. In any event, it will come off easily. Use whatever works for you. The goal is to clean the countersink sufficiently so the rivet seats in it nice and flat.

"Wet installing" means just that. You put a dab of wet sealer on the
countersink just prior to inserting and shooting the rivet. You want
the bottom of the (manufactured) head of the rivet to be sealed to the skin
to help prevent fuel leaks. When all the rivets are set, you can then
wipe the skin surface down with MEK or similar to clean it.

Also, and this is important.....do not forget to encapsulate the shop head of the rivets to their dimples before you close up the tanks. A toothpick or cotton swab can be used to swirl the proseal around the shop head...just use a system that works best for you. Just make certain the shop head is completely covered with a dab of proseal.
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  #30  
Old 08-05-2006, 07:21 PM
N427EF N427EF is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,510
Default Pastry chef prosealer

The only thing I don't like about proseal is that it resembles my work as a pastry chef.
I just finished the third leakfree tank.
I use parchment paper to make a nice little tube,wrap some tape around it and it is ready to go.Cut the tip as much or as little as you want to get a very small amount in the right place.Best of all when your done with it throw it away.
http://img79.imageshack.us/img79/4938/tankseal1ge6.jpg
http://img79.imageshack.us/img79/9384/tankseal2gi1.jpg
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