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  #11  
Old 10-02-2013, 12:19 PM
Bob Axsom Bob Axsom is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 5,685
Default The Crankshaft front plug

I received a message that told me the front plug in the crackshaft is to be removed with this new adapter cover plate. Any thoughts on that? I'm struggling to see how that can work.

Bob Axsom

Last edited by Bob Axsom : 10-02-2013 at 12:23 PM.
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  #12  
Old 10-02-2013, 01:45 PM
Neal@F14's Avatar
Neal@F14 Neal@F14 is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Wichita Falls, TX
Posts: 2,183
Default

Sounds like an excellent way to keep the whole front of the plane well lubed and corrosion-protected... for a short while anyway.

Methinks the correct solution is to have both crank plugs in place with the oil line in place and the special slotted cover plate over the back of the governor drive adapter. The normal oiling of the front crank bearing via the crankcase oil galleries and the oil crossover tube inside the hollow portion of the crank will still fill the hollow end with oil at somewhere near the engine's oil pressure, and it needs to drain back thru the line and into the governor drive adapter and then back down into the sump via the slotted cover plate. At least that's my understanding of how it all works.
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  #13  
Old 10-02-2013, 02:05 PM
jrs14855 jrs14855 is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Lake Havasu City AZ
Posts: 2,122
Default Plugs

For fixed pitch prop-front plug in place-hole in rear plug OR solid rear plug with governor line returning oil to governor pad cover. The external line with solid rear plug allows switching back and forth between fixed pitch and constant speed with much less work.


For constant speed- solid rear plug NO front plug.
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  #14  
Old 10-02-2013, 02:10 PM
Bob Axsom Bob Axsom is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 5,685
Default That was my conclusion as well

The source is highly respected so I tried to mentally make it work. I must have misinterpreted the input - my fault in word mismanagement I'm sure - thanks for the reality nudge. I'm sure in retrospect the intent was "you have to take the forward plug out to go back to C/S operation" - I need more sleep. I have the special cover and forward plug on order.

Bob Axsom
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  #15  
Old 10-11-2018, 06:22 PM
kthom_441 kthom_441 is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Caledonia, MI
Posts: 4
Default Engine Conversion

So it's been about 5 years since this thread was active. Since then someone must have tried it and can report their success (or not). I have my engine installed, O-320D1A, setup for CS operation and plan to use a FP. I like having the ability to convert back someday without major surgery.

So does this work? What is the part number for this special cover?

As an alternate, if I were to follow the Lycoming SB and pierce the rear plug, what can I expect to invest time-wise? I'm certain that removing the engine will be a first step.

Thanks to all!
Ken
RV-9A (Yep it's got that wheel in front to lead the way)
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  #16  
Old 10-11-2018, 06:50 PM
rhill rhill is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Valley Forge, Pa
Posts: 596
Default CS to FP and back again

Post a picture of what you have. If you have the adapter and the steel line in place, your good to go. The S.S. Line is expensive. Its a little added weight in trade for the easy conversion to CS later on. Piercing the inner plate and replacing the outer cover is fought with issues if the cross over oil tube is damaged in any way.
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