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  #1  
Old 10-09-2018, 12:51 PM
Keith Williams Keith Williams is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Milan, Illinois
Posts: 123
Default Tank Windows Leak

After 6 years of liking the tank windows, a leak has developed so I am going to cover them. Have the Van's pre made cover, have removed the access plate, and have the screws, nuts and washers that hold the window out and cleaned.

Seems to me that the way to do this is to put a layer of pro seal on the outside of the windows and bolt the pre made cover into place with the nuts and bolts from the window. Is this the normal way to do this?

Any reason I should take the top off and remove the plastic window and backup bracket?

Have checked forum archives, and unable to find directions from Van's or get a reply from an email to Vans so checking here.

Thanks.
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Keith Williams
Milan, IL
Built RV6 #756, 1989-99, flew until selling 5/2016.
Built RV12 #533, 5/2011 to 11/2012, flying
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  #2  
Old 10-09-2018, 05:12 PM
Keith Williams Keith Williams is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Milan, Illinois
Posts: 123
Default Tank Window Leak

Well, I heard from Van's. They say to remove the window and backing plate from inside the tank and rivet the new window cover inside the tank.

Looks like a real challenge to me, working through the access opening.

Seems like I would be doing less violence to the tank with the method I describe above. Have any of you done it that way - leaving the window in place and bolting the cover to the outside (with a generous layer of pro seal, the nuts just finger tight, pro seal under the bolt heads, etc. as when the window was installed)?

Just asking...
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Keith Williams
Milan, IL
Built RV6 #756, 1989-99, flew until selling 5/2016.
Built RV12 #533, 5/2011 to 11/2012, flying
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  #3  
Old 10-09-2018, 08:11 PM
Piper J3's Avatar
Piper J3 Piper J3 is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Hinckley, Ohio
Posts: 1,057
Default

Is it possible to just fix the leak?

See... http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...2&postcount=28

and...http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...1&postcount=30
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Jim Stricker
Hinckley, Ohio
EAA #499867
PPL/ASEL 1970 - Sport Pilot since 2004
80 hrs Flying Aeronca Chief 11AC
1130 hrs Flying 46 Piper J-3 Cub
RV-12 E-LSA #120058 AWC Jul 2012 - Bought Flying Oct 2015 with 48TT - Hobbs now 402

LSRM-A Certificate 2016
Special Thanks to EJ Trucks
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  #4  
Old 10-09-2018, 08:47 PM
Keith Williams Keith Williams is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Milan, Illinois
Posts: 123
Default Leak

Jim, thanks for the suggestions. I had been using the dye and light to run down a leak firewall forward. That is what led to the detection of the window leak plus another in the front corner. All very small. I am going to cover the windows, one way or another..

The dye and light are great tools. I think it was an earlier post from you that started me using them.
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Keith Williams
Milan, IL
Built RV6 #756, 1989-99, flew until selling 5/2016.
Built RV12 #533, 5/2011 to 11/2012, flying
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  #5  
Old 10-10-2018, 04:04 AM
blythet blythet is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: selma, NC
Posts: 8
Default Tank Window Leak Repair

I too finally had a window leak after 5 years and 370 hours. I needed to install the updates to the tank anyway so decided to install the window mod and the top mount gauge at the same time. All work was done through the fuel sender/inspection hole as I didn't relish removing the top of the tank. Take your time and clean/scuff all surfaces to receive sealant. Took about two days. When sealant had cured, I repainted the exterior repaired areas. Looks great and doesn't leak!! Go for it.
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  #6  
Old 10-10-2018, 05:59 AM
JBPILOT JBPILOT is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Jesup, Iowa
Posts: 1,598
Default Just my thoughts - -

It is fast and easy to take the top off the tank. A thin blade scraper and a hammer will take the top off in about 5 mins after you drill out the old rivets. Work from the corners to the center of each side, and it goes fast. Very easy to put back on also. Yes, takes more rivets, but you can check the inside of the tank and make the window closing much easier.
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Flying RV-12 - Serial #120036
Paid in May ( 5-4-18 )
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  #7  
Old 10-10-2018, 06:59 AM
Piper J3's Avatar
Piper J3 Piper J3 is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Hinckley, Ohio
Posts: 1,057
Default

I took the lid off of my tank to do the SB. I used a thin single-edge razor blade so as not to deform the sheetmetal. Worked a charm. See... http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...56&postcount=6
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Jim Stricker
Hinckley, Ohio
EAA #499867
PPL/ASEL 1970 - Sport Pilot since 2004
80 hrs Flying Aeronca Chief 11AC
1130 hrs Flying 46 Piper J-3 Cub
RV-12 E-LSA #120058 AWC Jul 2012 - Bought Flying Oct 2015 with 48TT - Hobbs now 402

LSRM-A Certificate 2016
Special Thanks to EJ Trucks
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  #8  
Old 10-10-2018, 08:36 AM
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DaleB DaleB is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Omaha, NE (KMLE)
Posts: 1,896
Default

Another data point... I too removed the top of my tank to do... well, lots of SB and leak fixing work. Not that tough, as has been noted, Razor blade and go slow.
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Omaha, NE
RV-12 # 222 N980KM "Screamin' Canary" (bought flying)
Fisher Celebrity (under construction)
Previous RV-7 project (sold)
-=VAF=- 2017 dues paid
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