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  #21  
Old 02-14-2018, 12:10 PM
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Post Title: Finished drilling the HS
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Sat, 02 Jan 2010 03:24:24 +0000
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Short, but productive day.

It was Jack's birthday today (he turned 3), so I ran out to Chik-Fil-A to get him is once a year human food treat. A chicken biscuit. Of course, Ginger needed one too ("so she doesn't feel left out") and so on, which meant my girlfriend and I also got biscuits. Here are Jack and Ginger.
Jack and Ginger (Jack's on the right) on the beach last summer. Happy Birthday Jack. You're 3 now. Start acting like it.


Anyway, after the birthday festivities (a.k.a. Jack and Ginger inhaling their biscuits), I managed a couple hours on the project. Here, I clamped HS-404 in place after having first marked holes and drilled #40 pilot holes in the aft flange. The instructions have you mark and drill pilot holes in the HS-405, but why drill from aft to forward, hoping you don't run into edge distance problems when you could drill from forward to aft? For the outboard holes, I did use the HS-405 for pilot holes. You'll see.
HS-404, with two pilot holes marked and drilled prior to mock-up.


Then, I matchdrilled the rest of the HS-404, which had been clamped in place in the above pictures. After that, I finished match-drilling the rest of the skin for the right side. After you finish and pull the skin off, you can drill the remaining HS-702 holes using the HS-710 and HS-714 angles as guides. Here are the last six holes drilled after pulling off the skin.
Finished drilling HS-710 and HS-714 after removing the skin.


After the skins are pulled off, I'm ready to start prep for final assembly.
After match rilling both skins and finishing the HS-710/HS-714 to HS-702 holes, The skeletons lay ready to disassemble, deburr, dimple, edge finish, surface prep, and prime.


2.0 hours today. Not bad.
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  #22  
Old 02-15-2018, 12:21 PM
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Post Title: LH skin dimpling, some HS riveting
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Sat, 09 Jan 2010 17:19:53 +0000
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This morning, I snuck out into the garage and starting dimpling the left hand HS skin with my new (borrowed) c-frame.

After thinking about the setup and trying a few things, I quickly realized I wanted the female dimple die underneath and the male dimple die on top.

I set up the skin on 3 2x4s (I haven't built a dimpling table yet because I wanted to see how I liked doing it) which was less than a 1/4" above the female dimple die. Then I basically moved the c-frame around until the male dimple die was lined up (this way I don't scratch the skin with a male dimple die while trying to locate the hole from underneath, like some builders do). Then I held the male dimple die down into the hole and...WHACK! Perfect dimple. I am far happier with these dimples than the pop-rivet dies. Keep in mind here, I am dimpling with the standard spring-back dies here, not the tank (deeper) dies.
Here's my setup for now. I like this because you move the c-frame, not the skin.


After finishing each row, I put a line of blue painters tape on the outside of the skin. I learned on the practice kit to protect whatever I didn't want to scratch. The tape will come off just before riveting.
Blue tape on the outside of the skins. Hooray protection!><

After I finished both sides, I scuffed up the internal lines, cleaned, then primed the inside of the left HS skin.
Here's the inside of the left skin, all suffed up, ready to prime.


While I waited for skins to dry, I riveted together HS-705, HS-702, and HS-704, but only the middle two holes. The rivets didn't bend over, per se, but set a little crooked. (My fault for not keeping the squeezer steady.) I drilled them out perfectly, and then decided shooting them might be a better idea. After practicing with a piece of scrap for a minute, I actually ended up shooting these rivets. They look really good.
Shop head picture. Rivets 7 and 8.

Machined head picture. This just looks good.


First thing after mounting the scotchbrite wheel, I finished the edges of HS-710 and HS-714 with the wheel. So easy. I should have ordered the wheel at the beginning. (Serves me right for trying to piece together a toolkit instead of buy one all at once. I thought the scotchbrite wheel was a luxury. It is not.) Then I countersunk the holes in HS-710 and HS-714. I had done this before, but sized the countersinks perfectly for a AN426AD4- rivet. When you cleco the dimpled HS-702 front spar to either piece, the spar doesn't sit flush, so you have to enlarge the countersinks.)
Enlarge countersinks. Check.


Anyway, I put in a few minutes of right HS skin deburring, scuffing, and dimpling before coming in for the day. (Notice I decided to scuff the interior of the right skin before dimpling? It's easier to scuff the skin without all of the dimples getting in the way. It's these little things that will save me time the second time around.)

Let's see. 9am to 11am, 2pm to 4pm. 4 hours today.
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  #23  
Old 02-15-2018, 12:25 PM
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Post Title: Left HS Riveting
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Sun, 10 Jan 2010 22:00:44 +0000
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Today I started left HS skin riveting.

The big takeaway is that I hate squeezing AN470AD4- rivets. For some reason (it's gotta be user error), I keep bending them over. Finally, I broke out the gun and got some rivets set. I think I may need a better bucking bar. The fact I set some really nice rivets with the crappy bar means that a tungsten bucking bar will probably be my favorite tool. Anyway, first picture is me riveting HS-710 and HS-714 to the left HS-702 front spar. You can see the two rivets in the upper right side of the picture needed to be drilled out. Oh wait. They all needed to be drilled out. See how I put the manufactured side on the thicker material here? Wrong, drill them out. That's one of the reasons I drilled out 11 rivets today. I didn't get all of these reset, but I did get the ones that would be inaccessible once I started riveting on the skin. In the picture below, I set the six behind the HS-404 rib, and six of the ten in front (lower right) of the HS-404 rib. A few of those bent over again, so I called it quits on this part and moved on. I'll have to drill out more rivets tomorrow. Ugh.
Squeezed, and then drilled out HS-710 and HS-714.


Next, I started some skin riveting, with the HS-707. You can see my first two skin riveting shop heads.
My first two flush rivets (well, first two on the skin).


Finished up the top, and then riveted the bottom (except for the last bottom skin rivet, the bottom 1/8" cleco prevented the bucking bar from getting in there, so I'll set this after I remove HS-708). The second and third rivets on the bottom need to be replaced. They are probably okay for such a non-structural area, but I am a perfectionist.
After riveting the top and bottom skins (to HS-707). Except the most aft skin rivet on HS-707. (See the lower 2nd and 3rd rivet from the right? Those shop heads are too small. I'll need to replace those.)><

Drilled them out, and replaced them. They look much better now.
Replaced with AD3-4 instead of AD3-3.5. I don't know why these needed longer rivets when every other rivet looked okay.


Next, I finished riveting HS-710 and HS-714 (front spar reinforcement angles) to HS-702 (front spar). Shop heads on the thicker material.
HS-710 and HS-714 successfully riveted to the front spar.


Here's a closeup of the two replaced rivets.
Another closeup of the HS-707 rivets.


Next, they have you cleco in the front spar and cleco HS-708 (what I am calling the middle aft rib) into place. (Ha, the Yard gave me a long reach 3/32" cleco in my bag of used clecos. You can see it on the upper left.)
Clecoed the front spar and HS-708 in place, ready to blind rivet.


One of the LP4-3 blind rivets set. I had to grind down my cheapo National Tool and Equipment blind rivet puller. Not hard, took about 5 minutes, and ended up working really nicely in here.
First blind rivet on the project. (I think it's an LP4-3.)><

And all three complete.
All three blind riveted. Time to move on.


Here, I got a shot of my painter's tape covered bucking bar just after bucking the lower tip rib rivet.
Riveting HS-706 (tip rib) to HS-702 (front spar). I think I could have squeezed these if I had unclecoed the skin a little, but I was feeling good about shooting them, and I'm not a fan of squeezing AD4- rivets since the "let's have fun squeezing and drilling out 9 rivets" fiasco this morning.
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  #24  
Old 02-15-2018, 12:29 PM
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I like these rivets. They gave me no problems.
Done!><

Next, I started setting the skin to front spar rivets. I shoudl elaborate on my technique a little here. I would remove a cleco, put in the AN426AD3-3.5 rivet, put some blue painters tape over the rivet, then shoot and buck it. The tape did wonders to protect the skin from any blemishes caused by the flush rivet set. I taught myself this trick after scratching the **** out of the practice kit. (note: I wish the practice kit had more AD4- rivets in it.) Anyway, these all look sufficient...
The first skin to spar rivets on the top.


I managed the rest of the HS702 (front spar) and HS-708 (aft middle rib) to skin rivets. There were 42 of them. On each side. I wrapped my bucking bar in blue painters tape to protect the skeleton from dings and scratches. Worked like a charm. I'll replace all of the tape then next time I have a big rivet day.
I wrapped my bucking bar in tape. Here is the result after 113 rivets today. (Well, 124, I had to drill out 11 rivets.)><

Here are some after shots. The HS is upside down, so even though this is the left HS, we are looking at the tip rib here.
All done. I may go back and see if there are any underdriven rivets in here. I was being rushed back into the house for dinner after I finished riveting.


Looking at HS-708 and the blind rivets holding it to HS-702 (front spar) and HS-707 (middle tip rib). It looks like the spar is scratched here, but it is really just a couple scuffs from my knuckles and the handle from the blind rivet puller.
More after pictures.


This is looking toward the center of the airplane (toward HS-405, aft inboard rib)
And again.


No closeups, because I didn't clean off the skin yet, but still, it looks so nice. Also, I need to remember to stop dripping air tool oil all over my workbench.
Hooray for a riveted skin. It looks like it might fly one day.


After I got all the riveting done, I started peeling off the blue vinyl from the interior. The primer on the vinyl flaked off as I peeled, and it got everywhere. I don't know how to prevent this, though, and after a quick sweep with the vacuum, it looked wonderful again. Before I close up, I'll probably wipe off the unprimed aluminum with acetone or similar to make sure I have all the fingerprints (oils) off.
Removed the blue vinyl on the interior. Me likey.


I also got a half hour of right HS skin deburring tonight. We'll see.

Noon to 1pm, 1:30pm to 4:30pm, then 9-9:3pm while watching the UNC/VT game. Go heels. 4.5 very productive hours.
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  #25  
Old 02-15-2018, 12:30 PM
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Post Title: Squeezed more left HS Rivets
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Tue, 12 Jan 2010 03:59:20 +0000
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I got some rivets squeezed tonight, which means it was a good day. All of the rivets tonight were either HS-601PP (skin) to HS-706 (tip rib) or HS-601PP (skin) to HS-404/405 (inboard ribs). All squeezable.

The plans have you skip 5 rivets on the top only, but the clecos were doing such a good job of holding the skin off of the table, I decided to skip those rivets on the bottom, too. Also, I only squeezed every other rivet on the tip until I can get the rear spar riveted in. Then, I'll finish the whole thing off.
On the top of the skin, Van's has you leave the rearmost HS-405 hole open, then every fourth rivet forward of that. Here are my first three squeezed AN426AD3- rivets on the project.


Then I got up to the HS-601PP (skin) to HS-702 (front spar) to HS-405 (aft inboard rib) hole. You can see that the longer rivet they call out (AN426AD3-4, instead of -3.5) isn't long enough.
Bad picture, but the rivet at the top of the picture is not going to be long enough to form a good shop head.


Then, I spent a few minutes looking over my work from yesterday. It generally looks pretty good, but I must have been distracted during these three or four rivets (at least they are on the bottom of the skin). Not a big deal, but when you look at it in the right light, you can see some small dings.
A couple small smilies and dings. These make me want a swivel flush set. Hmm. It looks like I didn't keep the rivet gun straight. Bummer.


From today, two of the rivets I squeezed didn't sit correctly in the dimple. They are probably just fine, but I'm going to replace them. (I know, I know, they will be under the empennage fairing, but still, I want them better than they are.)
Only two rivets to replace tomorrow. Better than yesterday's average.


30 quiet minutes today, after the girlfriend and puppies went to bed. I'm so sneaky.

38 rivets tonight, 2 I'll have to drill out tomorrow, but don't count against my batting average tonight.
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  #26  
Old 02-15-2018, 12:32 PM
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Post Title: Right HS skin scuff and dimple
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Thu, 14 Jan 2010 03:42:49 +0000
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Once the UNC game started and finishing up the dishes, I managed to fit an hour in outside before getting too tired to start anything new.
Hmm. This is a nice Chianti. What should I start on tonight


More fine riveting work. (I need to do something about the circles left by the dimple dies.) I know they are normal, but wouldn't the skin look better without them? Maybe some blue painters tape on the dies will work. I'll have to try it out on some scrap.
Nice and smooth.


I spent the rest of my hour edge finishing, scuffing, and dimpling the right HS skin. How does it look? (Notice blue painter's tape on the exterior side? Works like magic to prevent scratches.)
Right HS skin scuffed and dimpled.


That's all for tonight. Boo UNC for sucking so bad tonight. Come on, Roy, whip those boys into shape!
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  #27  
Old 02-15-2018, 12:33 PM
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Post Title: Right HS - Primed skeleton, Dimpled skin
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Thu, 14 Jan 2010 18:48:57 +0000
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Today, I used my lunch hour to swing by NAPA to pick up some more self-etching primer and then get a few minutes of work done before playing with the puppies. Jack and Ginger love it when they get to go outside and play during the middle of the day.

Anyway, I finished edge-prepping, cleaning, and drying the right HS ribs and front spar before priming them.

Then, I broke out the c-frame and finished dimpling the right HS skin. This time, I put a piece of blue painter's tape (sticky side toward the male (exterior side of the skin) dimple die) between the dies and squeezed them together. I figured this layer of tape would help prevent some of the circles I am getting during dimpling.
3/32" Dimple Dies covered in blue tape.


The resulting dimples don't have as much of a circle around them, and the dimples are just as deep. I wish I had known that the first time around. I'm not very happy that my right HS is going to end up looking a lot nicer than the left.

It was a little short of an hour today, but I ran a little long yesterday, so I'll log an hour.
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  #28  
Old 02-15-2018, 12:34 PM
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Post Title: Started riveting right HS
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Sat, 16 Jan 2010 01:35:56 +0000
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I managed a couple hours in the shop today, even though I was as sick as a dog. In between frantically running to the bathroom to pray to the porcelain god, I did get a couple things done. I planned to get some of the right HS done today, which needed more prep on the skin, and then some riveting.

First, I cleaned and primed right HS skin interior.
Right HS skin all primed and such. Well, on one side, at least.


After flipping, priming the other side, and letting it dry, I decided to fix some of the bad rivets from the other day. They look better now.
HS-710/HS-712 to HS-702 rivets fixed.


Then, I grabbed the right HS ribs and front spar and clecoed some of them to the left HS. I
Right spar clecoed to the left HS assembly. This thing is getting big.


I started by riveting the front spar to HS-710 and HS-714. This time, I was following the directions a little more closely. All of the rivets today turned out great. I had switched from my offset cupped set to a straight set, and they were all perfect. (Don't mind the two empty holes on the far left, I remembered them later and shot those rivets, too.)
Great rivets if I do say so myself.


Then I riveted HS-405 and HS-404 to front spar. Again, no mistakes. Then, I turned back to the skin once it was dry. On the left side, I waiting until riveting HS-707 and HS-706 to the skin before I devinyled this area. On this skin, I figured that I wouldn't be holding a bucking bar (that I could drop and scratch the skin) in this area, so why not take the blue off before making it hard on myself. Much easier this way, but I could only do it here. (I have to admit, those nice straight primer lines make me happy.)
Back to the skin. Devinyling the easy way.


The directions have you cleco in HS-707, rivet to the bottom skin, then cleco in HS-706 and HS-708 (to help the skin take shape and sit tight against the aft holes of HS-707), and then rivet HS-707 to the top skin. Just like the left side, I needed AN426AD3-4 rivets where they sometimes call out an AN426AD3-3.5.

The, I let this happen.
Uh oh...


What? Don't see anything? Try this angle.
AAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!><

NO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

:-(

It was completely my fault. I was getting confident, and was holding the rivet gun with my left hand. I had the pressure set near 50psi (I usually use 40psi for the AD3- rivets) and the gun got away from me.

I stared at it for about 5 minutes, realizing that it was probably okay, but would essentially force me to bondo and paint the tail, which would not have been the end of the world, except I still might want to polish the airplane.

I decided to drill out the 4 rivets I had set in the bottom skin to see if I could help it any with a flush set from the back side. I managed to get my backrivet set in there a little, and it helped, but I came inside as I was getting chilled and frustrated.

Later, I realized that I have a c-frame, and with two flush sets in there, I may be able to very gently hammer it back into shape (or at least get it close). I'll have to re-dimple, too, because I flattened out the dimple while trying to fix the dents.)

...so...mad...

Maybe this weekend I can fix it up a little and keep going.
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  #29  
Old 02-15-2018, 12:43 PM
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Very correctable. Not ideal but hey it happens. I have a few of these, not on control surfaces, but around here and there on my scratch and ding -7a, nothing that won't buff out! Drill that rivet, put a new one in, little peening and off you go!
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  #30  
Old 02-15-2018, 12:52 PM
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Post Title: More Right HS Riveting
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Sun, 17 Jan 2010 21:55:18 +0000
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After a nice day off (had to work), I got back in the garage this morning for some good progress.

I started off by assessing the damage from the other day's skin denting fiasco. I contemplated removing HS-707 entirely (from the top skin, too) so I could really get in there and smooth this sucker out. I even got everything mocked up in the c-frame again to look at the feasibility of getting rid of this dent. Then I decided I would have probably caused more harm than good, and that it looked a lot better today than it did the other day. After re-clecoing HS-708 into the skin with HS-707 and re-riveting the bottom skin to HS-707, I took this picture. The dented area is between the bottom two rivets in the picture. It's really not that bad.
The denting between the bottom two rivets is really not that bad. And, it's on the bottom of the right HS. No one will look there. Unless you are reading this, and come to see my airplane, and want to see the dent on the bottom of the right HS. **** you.


****! I forgot to remove the blue vinyl from the inboard bay before clecoing everything together. Okay, let's un-cleco, remove, the vinyl, and recleco. Great. After inspecting (admiring, really) the assembly, I noticed a loose rivet (as opposed to a prude rivet. Hehe.). It was one of the two forward HS-707 rivets (by the denting). Grrr. Okay, should I un-cleco everything, and risk scratching everything in the process, or drill out two small rivets in the HS-404 to get my arm in there. I decided to go with drilling, since apparently I am really good at drilling rivets out. Without any issue, I got HS-404 removed and reached in to replace the offending rivet (second from the right in the picture).
HS-404 removed so I could reach in to replace the loose rivet.


Then, I reinstalled HS-404. (But took this picture before I actually riveted it to HS-702 (front spar) and HS-405 (aft root rib) behind the spar. Just pretend there are perfectly driven rivets there.
HS-404 reinstalled and the rest of the skin clecoed together.


Time to skin rivet. I like this part. Here is my technique. I stick the appropriate sized rivet in the hole, cover with blue tape, then reach in with the bucking bar, and shoot with my flush set, which is also covered in blue tape. Then, I remove the rest of the clecos, put rivets in again, and move all this little pieces of blue tape over one. (Then I figured out that on the second round, I could remove all the blue pieces of tape and run a whole line of tape along the line. I just had to make sure verify which rivets I had the bucking bar behind by pushing up on it a little. you can then see the rivet pushing up behind the tape. Bucking bar in place, I can set the gun down on the rivet and shoot.)

If you were counting, you noticed there are now two pieces of blue tape between the flush set and the rivet (and my fragile HS skin). This worked well for me, prevented further damage, and gave me some friction to help keep the set in place.
Rivets ready to set, covered with blue tape.


So, I knocked out all of the rivets needing to be bucked (I think it was 42 per side) before inspecting all my work for any issues. I think I found 5 skin rivets I wanted to replace. Here is a good example. The shop heads of all of these look great, but I want those rivets perfectly flush. I didn't take an after picture (sorry), but I assure you, the one on the right now looks like the one on the left.
Bad rivet on the right. Replace.


After bucking all of those, I moved the now very big HS assembly to the floor while I cleaned off my workbench. Nice and clean again.
Clean workbench!


Then, I brought the HS back up on the table to squeeze the rivets that could be squeezed on the HS-601PP (skin) to HS-404 (inboard tip rib), HS-405 (inboard aft rib), and HS-706 (tip rib). The instructions have you leave 5 holes open on the inboard lines for the empennage fairing attach holes on the top only, but I decided to leave the same holes empty on the bottom for now, just to have clecos there on both sides to hold the HS off the table. I also left some clecos in both sides of the tip ribs (although I left less on the right than I had on the left the other day, so I squeezed a few more on the left. ) Anyway, the HS is upside-down here. Left side is in the foreground.
Oooh, pretty.


And after I flipped the HS right side up.
Shiny and clean.


Good 3.5 hour day today. 146 rivets set, 14 drilled out.

Next up:

1) Remove rest of blue vinyl from inside of HS.
2) Rear spar work.
3) Finish riveting holes in HS.
4) Figure out what is going to "fly" when I finish the HS.
5) Hang HS for storage

I also decided that I am going to keep a separate page for tips. I keep learning these little tricks along the way. I should write them down.
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