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  #41  
Old 09-29-2018, 04:49 PM
n518jh n518jh is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Sun City West, AZ
Posts: 21
Default Is a low voltage problem fixable?

My RV12 with 360 hours has shown low voltage for some time. It occurs to me that there might be a loose wire keeping the voltage low. Thoughts? Mark
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  #42  
Old 09-29-2018, 05:09 PM
tomkk's Avatar
tomkk tomkk is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Port Orange, Fl
Posts: 780
Default

Low voltage was the symptom that has caused me to replace the voltage regulator, at least 3 times. Replacing the VR corrected my low voltage each time. My opinion is heat is killing my VRs. Mine is located in the cockpit under the avionics tray. The blast tube I rigged up seems to be keeping the heat under control, it remains to be seen whether that'll svae the VR.
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Port Orange, Fl
RV-12 N121TK ELSA #120845; first flight 06/10/2015
RV-12 N918EN ELSA #120995 Eagles Nest Project
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  #43  
Old 09-30-2018, 07:45 AM
Shawn25854 Shawn25854 is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Clearwater, FL / KZPH
Posts: 128
Default

I also have the Silent-Hektik unit and love it. It's been working flawlessly for a LONG time now. Was it expensive, yup, but I won't have to replace it every year or two.

The voltage output ramps up over a 30 minute period. After about 30 minutes I see 14 to 14.3 volts and the unit never reaches 149° and its mounted on the firewall in the engine compartment. I have a Thermax temp strip on it to monitor the temp.

This is a great unit and I also bought 5 of them at once for me and an group of owners. Saved on shipping and got a better price.

We also only bought the voltage regulators, it uses the OEM Ducati connector and is a direct plug in as stated by Major-Tom. Make sure all your spade connectors are tight in the connector before you slip it on.
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  #44  
Old 10-01-2018, 02:18 PM
bpattonsoa bpattonsoa is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Indepenence, Oregon
Posts: 280
Default Another problem

A few day ago I completed wiring my Rans S-20 power circuits. I turned on the Master and about 30 minutes later smelt something like very hot electrical. The regulator was too hot to touch. Pulled its fuse and let it cool. Am still a ways from running the motor so I just left it until today. Checked the wiring six times, it was correct.

I removed the regulator and the potting compound. The problem was readily apparent. The L and C connections to the circuit board were sloppily soldered and flowed together. Zero ohms between the L and C connections. The L goes to a light used to indicate charging. With the two soldered together, something got very hot.


Very obvious to the casual inspection, as said somewhere in the thread, very poor quality (with a small q) control.


Fixed it, but who knows if something is blown. I will find out when the engine runs.


PS I noted that the R and B+ are soldered to the same land, so the wiring diagram is incorrect in that the connection need not be made externally.
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Bruce Patton
Building Rans S-20 Raven 796S reserved
Going to the light side!
RV-6A 596S flying since '99 (Sold)
HP-18 5596S flying since '89
RV-10 996S tail, quick build wing and slow build fues., - dual Skyviews with complete system, two radio and not much else. Interior completely finished with Zolatone. CF plenum, interior complete. 1624 lbs, FLYING after a 21.5 month build.
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  #45  
Old Yesterday, 08:33 AM
MMiller MMiller is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Babylon NY
Posts: 52
Default Scratch built replacement regulator

A few weeks ago I scratch built a new voltage regulator to replace the Ducati.

My design goals were;
  • Low cost “experimental” replacement
  • Repairable
  • All components are off the shelf (no custom extrusions, CNC, or molded parts)
  • A regulator with known ratings, all components have data sheets.
  • Built with common builders tools
  • Increased heat sink area
  • Eliminate Faston connections for the power leads
  • Maintain the Ducati mounting bolt hole spacing
  • Optional cooling fan

This is what I came up with;

Overview


Side by side



Optional cooling fan


The parts cost about $60, not including the PCB.

I’ve only got a few hours on it, so I wouldn’t consider it a proven design. If you have an interest in building an experimental replacement regulator, all the details can be found in this pdf file;
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1d6...fIhzrB4gktR3Ok

Last edited by MMiller : Yesterday at 08:36 AM.
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  #46  
Old Yesterday, 08:53 AM
Mich48041 Mich48041 is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Riley TWP MI
Posts: 2,693
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Good Job Mike. Are you going to manufacture and sell them?
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RV-12 Flying
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  #47  
Old Yesterday, 09:05 AM
DHeal DHeal is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Windsor, California
Posts: 721
Default

Great stuff Mike! Thanks!!
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David Heal - Windsor, CA (near Santa Rosa)
EAA #23982 - EAA Technical Counselor and Flight Advisor; CFI - A&I
RV-12 E-LSA #120496 (SV w/ AP and ADS-B) - N124DH flying since March 2014 - 680+ hours (as of Oct 2018)!
VAF donation through June 2019.
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  #48  
Old Yesterday, 09:26 AM
MMiller MMiller is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Babylon NY
Posts: 52
Default

Thanks.
Nope, no interest in selling these. If I were building a production version I would have made different design choices.
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  #49  
Old Yesterday, 01:38 PM
Dave12 Dave12 is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Elkton, Md.
Posts: 1,358
Default

Tis a thing of beauty Mike.
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Wag Aero Sport Trainer
N588DF RV12 #336 Sold
N73DF RV12 #244 Flying
Rans S21 Outbound (Coming soon)

Last edited by Dave12 : Yesterday at 01:41 PM.
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  #50  
Old Yesterday, 08:07 PM
RFSchaller RFSchaller is online now
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 2,322
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Never ceases to amaze me how innovative home builders are. Good job!
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