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  #1  
Old 02-27-2014, 03:30 PM
jswareiv jswareiv is offline
 
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Location: New Orleans, LA
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Default TE on Flaps

I am trying to figure out the need for a straight edge to make the trailing edge on the flaps. I understand that you are trying to keep the wedge straight (FL-00008A&B), but if you are clecoing it, then riveting it, isn't it straight with the skins? Thanks.
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  #2  
Old 02-27-2014, 04:14 PM
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M McGraw M McGraw is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Greenback, TN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jswareiv View Post
I am trying to figure out the need for a straight edge to make the trailing edge on the flaps. I understand that you are trying to keep the wedge straight (FL-00008A&B), but if you are clecoing it, then riveting it, isn't it straight with the skins? Thanks.
Stoney,
Your concern with the trailing edge is when you start the riveting. It is important to follow the procedure described in the manual. The procedure is designed to prevent the metal from stretching or shrinking and warping the trailing edge. Start in the middle and pound the rivets about 1/3 to 1/2 of complete then skip about 10 rivets and do the same. Etc... After they are all 1/3 to 1/2 done repeat. I used a scrap piece of 3/8" x 2" x 6' steel (left over from a hangar project) as a back riveting plate. That allowed the trailing edge to be fully supported in the process. If you can't find a scrap piece that long be sure to shim the trailing edge on both sides of your back rivet plate.

Good luck!
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  #3  
Old 03-05-2014, 11:27 AM
JDA_BTR JDA_BTR is offline
 
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Marvin, how did you keep the steel angle from roughing up the TE as you went along riveting? Did you match drill the angle and cleco to it as well?
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  #4  
Old 03-05-2014, 01:39 PM
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rleffler rleffler is offline
 
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Originally Posted by JDA_BTR View Post
Marvin, how did you keep the steel angle from roughing up the TE as you went along riveting? Did you match drill the angle and cleco to it as well?
I used just a standard titanium bucking bar and mine came out just fine.

It's impossible to match the angle from both directions. I made sure that to manufactured head set correctly. The shop head was driven to conform of the angle on the bottom. It should fill in quite a bit of the dimple when completed.
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  #5  
Old 03-05-2014, 01:59 PM
rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
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Originally Posted by rleffler View Post
The shop head was driven to conform of the angle on the bottom. It should fill in quite a bit of the dimple when completed.
I agree, but because quite a bit is still somewhat subjective, I recommend using caution that you don't over do it or you will end up with a messing looking trailing edge.
If an attempt is made to fill the dimple (such as by using a slightly longer rivet), you will cause a lot of distress in the surrounding metal and it will get very distorted and rippled (this caution is highlighted in section 5 of the construction manual).
Using the specified length rivets and driving just enough to get the shop heads just flush to the surface gives a good result.
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  #6  
Old 03-05-2014, 02:58 PM
Ron B. Ron B. is offline
 
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Originally Posted by JDA_BTR View Post
Marvin, how did you keep the steel angle from roughing up the TE as you went along riveting? Did you match drill the angle and cleco to it as well?
I only used the angle (alum) for setting the Proseal. I apply the Proseal and set the clecoes thru the TE and into the 1/8" thick angle. I put a cleco in every hole and let the Proseal cure for app. two days. I leave my tray with the remaining Proseal and popsicle stick in the heated roam with my part and monitor the curing. When ready I remove all the Clecos and angle (all stays in place now with the partially cured Proseal) , clean all the dimples of Proseal and put all the rivets in there holes. I use riveting tape to hold the rivets in place and flip the part over and back rivet with a plate beneath.
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  #7  
Old 03-05-2014, 06:39 PM
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M McGraw M McGraw is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDA_BTR View Post
Marvin, how did you keep the steel angle from roughing up the TE as you went along riveting? Did you match drill the angle and cleco to it as well?
Sorry for the delayed response. What I did was use the 3M tape as per the manual. I left the clecos in for a few days while the flap was weighed down with sandbags. After that I removed all celcos. Put the rivets in from the topside. Placed rivet tape over that then turned the flap over to back rivet. I had the sandbags on the flap while riveting. My trailing edge came out very straight. I hope that helps.

Marvin
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  #8  
Old 10-10-2018, 05:31 AM
didja didja is offline
 
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Location: Goodyear, Az
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I am currently working on the right wing (started the right before the left).... I completed the aileron and am now working on the flaps. I noticed that unlike the Aileron (at least as far as I was able to scan through), the flap required adhesive tape on the trailing edge, like the elevators.....

What is the use of the tape here and why is it not put on in the aileron TE? I am trying to see why it is needed if the TE is double flush riveted in place. Do you *need* to install the adhesive with the trailing edge of the flaps? the ailerons?
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  #9  
Old 10-10-2018, 12:34 PM
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czechsix czechsix is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by didja View Post
I am currently working on the right wing (started the right before the left).... I completed the aileron and am now working on the flaps. I noticed that unlike the Aileron (at least as far as I was able to scan through), the flap required adhesive tape on the trailing edge, like the elevators.....

What is the use of the tape here and why is it not put on in the aileron TE? I am trying to see why it is needed if the TE is double flush riveted in place. Do you *need* to install the adhesive with the trailing edge of the flaps? the ailerons?
I thought the plans called for using the tape on all the trailing edges including the ailerons. I used adhesive (proseal) on all trailing edges on my -14 and I think that's what others are doing also. I don't think the tape is required structurally, but it helps keep everything aligned while you rivet and will produce a straighter, nicer looking trailing edge.
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  #10  
Old 10-10-2018, 05:14 PM
didja didja is offline
 
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I hadn't realized it called for all TEs.... I will have to relook st my aileron to see if I want to risk drilling out all those rivers. The oddity was that the instructions specifically called out the tape in the section of the flaps and elevators, but I did not read anywhere in the section of the ailerons to put adhesive on the TE, so i didnt even think about it until i read the instructions call the adhesive out for the flaps... hmmmm.... now i have some risk/reward analysis to do!
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