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  #1  
Old 10-10-2018, 08:43 PM
WingRock WingRock is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Davenport, IA
Posts: 17
Default Before Gluing Canopy To Frame

I have trimmed my canopy to fit my frame and separated the windscreen and the rear of the canopy. I have also read all the threads on how to best make the canopy fit the frame, and still, It is approximately 1.25" out from the frame just ahead of the weldment. I will be gluing it on using 1/8" spacers as many of you have done. I am really hoping for a "crack free" canopy and just want opinions from those of you that have glued your canopy on and have had to pull the sides in and clamp it until the adhesive sets up.

Is 1.25" on each side (near the back.... where they all seem to crack) an excessive gap, or normal?
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Mark Howell
Davenport, IA
RV8 Tail, Wings and most of fuse done, deep into fiberglass and wire
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  #2  
Old 10-11-2018, 07:44 PM
Pman Pman is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Geneva, Illinois
Posts: 43
Default

Thanks for posting this Mark. I'll look forward to some of the others who may also reply.

I'm at the same point of my build, about to glue my RV8 canopy also. My canopy is pretty much the same as yours, seems like all parts of the canopy rest comfortably on the frame except the aft third. It requires a fair amount of pressure for me to get the plexiglass to conform and clamped onto the aft frame. However, I believe this is normal.

I have noticed, it helps to begin clamping aft and then move forward as you clamp.

Good luck, hoping others will chime in.

Regards,

Mike Perillo
RV8

Last edited by Pman : 10-11-2018 at 07:48 PM.
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  #3  
Old 10-11-2018, 09:09 PM
david_rv8a david_rv8a is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Madison, AL
Posts: 8
Default Sika canopy to frame

I did my canopy a few months ago in the summer. I had a large gap too but it comes together nicely with clamps. I bought a whole bunch of spring clamps from Harbor Freight, the kind with the rubber tips. The rubber tips hold onto the frame on one side and the plexiglas on the other. One thing to watch out for is that once everything is glued and clamped the plexi canopy can shift to one side or other. It does it slowly if the clamps are not positioned squarely. Mine slipped around to one side by about a quarter to a half inch. I didn't realize what had happened until 24 hours later after the Sika has set up. Because I had not done a final trim, I had material to work with to even everything up, except at the very front on one side of the slider portion. The canopy slider front right edge did not transition to the fixed windscreen at that location so now I'm having to add micro to build up the edge of the windscreen. Good luck.
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  #4  
Old 10-11-2018, 11:25 PM
WingRock WingRock is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Davenport, IA
Posts: 17
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pman View Post
Thanks for posting this Mark. I'll look forward to some of the others who may also reply.

I'm at the same point of my build, about to glue my RV8 canopy also. My canopy is pretty much the same as yours, seems like all parts of the canopy rest comfortably on the frame except the aft third. It requires a fair amount of pressure for me to get the plexiglass to conform and clamped onto the aft frame. However, I believe this is normal.

I have noticed, it helps to begin clamping aft and then move forward as you clamp.

Good luck, hoping others will chime in.

Regards,

Mike Perillo
RV8
Mike,
Upon another experienced builders suggestion, I trimmed off (squared off) a few inches of the furthest aft part of the canopy (that will be hidden by the fiberglass skirt), hoping to make the rear section lay down easier but not sure as to how much it helped.
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RV8 Tail, Wings and most of fuse done, deep into fiberglass and wire
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  #5  
Old 10-11-2018, 11:30 PM
WingRock WingRock is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Davenport, IA
Posts: 17
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by david_rv8a View Post
I did my canopy a few months ago in the summer. I had a large gap too but it comes together nicely with clamps. I bought a whole bunch of spring clamps from Harbor Freight, the kind with the rubber tips. The rubber tips hold onto the frame on one side and the plexiglas on the other. One thing to watch out for is that once everything is glued and clamped the plexi canopy can shift to one side or other. It does it slowly if the clamps are not positioned squarely. Mine slipped around to one side by about a quarter to a half inch. I didn't realize what had happened until 24 hours later after the Sika has set up. Because I had not done a final trim, I had material to work with to even everything up, except at the very front on one side of the slider portion. The canopy slider front right edge did not transition to the fixed windscreen at that location so now I'm having to add micro to build up the edge of the windscreen. Good luck.
Thanks for the info!
Glad to hear that it pulled in and held, reminds me that I need to go buy some more clamps.
You mentioned it slipped while it was clamped, did you clamp canopy to frame and pipe Sika in around spacers or lay a full bead and then place canopy on and clamp?
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Davenport, IA
RV8 Tail, Wings and most of fuse done, deep into fiberglass and wire
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  #6  
Old 10-12-2018, 01:44 AM
ambrosesquadronca ambrosesquadronca is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Quartz Hill, CA
Posts: 16
Default Frame Gap

My gap was about 1" in the back and took a fair amount of force to pull it down. I would recommend a thick Sika bond line in the back (~3/8"-1/2") transitioning to 1/8" or so as you go forward to minimize the pre-load. It will cost a little weight but think it's worth it.

Dave
RV-8A
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  #7  
Old 10-12-2018, 07:33 AM
sjhurlbut sjhurlbut is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 603
Default Sika

Iíve sikaflexed all my canopies. As long as pressure is reasonable (and it will be at sides) your gap is fine. Sika flex is definitely hold it if applied correctly. I made a chin up bar with it years ago.

One thing I would recommend is a couple clecoes to prevent the canopy moving while drying as mentioned in another post. You can get away with 2-4 clecoes on entire canopy to hold it. Ensures perfect alignment. Put the clecoes near where you have a spacer so it doesnít pull canopy in too close
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  #8  
Old 10-12-2018, 09:47 AM
david_rv8a david_rv8a is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Madison, AL
Posts: 8
Default

I clamped up the canopy to frame and squeezed the SIKA into the gap, top-side first then the bottom-side of the gap. I taped both the frame and canopy on either side of the gap as others have done to make a nice finished edge of the SIKA. Lesson learned, don't wait until the SIKA cures before removing the tape. I did and had to trim away SIKA to get all the blue masking tape off.
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  #9  
Old 10-12-2018, 01:16 PM
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cdeerinck cdeerinck is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: San Marcos, CA
Posts: 314
Default What worked for me

You probably already know this, but here goes:

As you clamp the sizes, the top will try to go up. To not to honor your cut line as if it is a given. Keep readjusting the clamps until the canopy drops to contact the rollbar top and size, side rails, and back. When you do that, the pressure to squeeze it together is not very much at all.
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  #10  
Old 10-12-2018, 09:37 PM
WingRock WingRock is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Davenport, IA
Posts: 17
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ambrosesquadronca View Post
My gap was about 1" in the back and took a fair amount of force to pull it down. I would recommend a thick Sika bond line in the back (~3/8"-1/2") transitioning to 1/8" or so as you go forward to minimize the pre-load. It will cost a little weight but think it's worth it.

Dave
RV-8A
Thanks Dave, I cut some more shims this afternoon to thicken up my transition and taper it back to 1/8".
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RV8 Tail, Wings and most of fuse done, deep into fiberglass and wire
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