Heat Box Questions

I am looking at the two cabin heat stainless versions, spot welded not assembled with aluminum hardware for my RV-7 (listed below).

Also what is the throw or travel to move the flap from closed to open?
Comments, suggestions pictures, lessons learned, do and don't?
Did you use cable control or servo to move?


I am looking at are (spruce aircraft)

"HEATER BYPASS VALVE WITH ENGINE SIDE CONTROL LEVER"
Part # 08-01311-1

"HEATER BYPASS VALVE WITH CABIN SIDE CONTROL LEVER FOR RV-7, RV-8 AND RV-9"
Part # 08-01311 (I like this one, looks light, simple and effective)

Both are wedged shape not boxes... figure this will work fine and take less room.

I went with the cabin side controlled model (08-01311) to avoid another hole through the firewall. Works great with a bowden cable clamp through the side of the heat defuser housing.

I installed an SS heater box from Aircraft Spruce in my RV-7, it's controlled by a ratcheting cable also from Aircraft Spruce. This box is a stainless version of Van's aluminum unit, installation was dead simple using either the Spruce or Vans plans.

The cable throw isn't as much as you'd expect, probably only 2-3".

HTH

Dave

Thanks for the replies... I am going to try and resist the urge to make it more complicated (with electrical servo actuation) and just use a flex cable....

There are servos all over cars for the ac/heater blend door or vent flapper valve, could work (I think). That would be cool to have a heat on/off switch. Mechanical cable is straight forward... If I can't find something electrical that is simple, works well and inexpensive, I'll go with the cable.