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  #1  
Old 08-10-2018, 07:25 AM
DJS DJS is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Middleton, wi
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Cool Nose wheel shimmy

I have developed a nose wheel shimmy on landing rollout on my 600 hour rv10. Known issues? Suggestions for cause and fix? Thanks, Dave
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  #2  
Old 08-10-2018, 07:32 AM
Electrogunner Electrogunner is offline
 
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Location: Quarryville ,pa
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Default Shimmy

Check the breakout force on the nose wheel. I think it should be around 25 lbs, but check that was from memory.
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  #3  
Old 08-10-2018, 07:38 AM
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Carl Froehlich Carl Froehlich is offline
 
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Yep - most of us have been there.

What I do:
- Get the replacement nose wheel axle and adjust the wheel bearing compression just like you do on the main gear. http://www.matcomfg.com/axleassembly...dv-3657-1.html
- Keep all tire pressures about 40 pounds.
- Balance all tires.

The point on doing all three tires is I found that a main gear bad or out of balance tire will cause nose wheel shimmy by itself.

If you are still on the orginal tires after 600 hours, recommend replacing them.

Carl
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  #4  
Old 08-10-2018, 07:39 AM
Bgill Bgill is online now
 
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Location: Douglas, GA
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Default Shimmy

26# at the axle centerline for the breakout force.. doing my annual now - just tightened mine..
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  #5  
Old 08-10-2018, 07:52 AM
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N42AH N42AH is offline
 
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Location: RV-10 based at SC99 - Whiteplains Airpark
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Default Anti Splat Bearing Fix

Quote:
Originally Posted by DJS View Post
I have developed a nose wheel shimmy on landing rollout on my 600 hour rv10. Known issues? Suggestions for cause and fix? Thanks, Dave
Send your nose wheel off to Allen @ Anti Splat, and let them put in their sealed bearing, balance the rim and true the tire and your problem will magically disappear. That is unless something is bent or broken. And if you get the bent or broken part fixed...put a new tire on the nose wheel rim and send it off to them to do the above. Worked perfectly on all three ties for my 9A and on the nose wheel for my 10.
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  #6  
Old 08-10-2018, 08:33 AM
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Plummit Plummit is offline
 
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Location: SoCal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bgill View Post
26# at the axle centerline for the breakout force.. doing my annual now - just tightened mine..
Did you have to redrill the nose gear for the new tightened position?

-Marc
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  #7  
Old 08-10-2018, 08:40 AM
Mousse Mousse is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plummit View Post
Did you have to redrill the nose gear for the new tightened position?

-Marc
I modified the nut as oppose to drill the gear tube. A lot easier.
Michel
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  #8  
Old 08-10-2018, 08:51 AM
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Plummit Plummit is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mousse View Post
I modified the nut as oppose to drill the gear tube. A lot easier.
Michel
Pardon me for being obtuse, but how did you "modify" the nut?

-Marc
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  #9  
Old 08-10-2018, 02:02 PM
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ScottSchmidt ScottSchmidt is offline
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Make sure it is the nose wheel and not the mains.

The mains are known to shake around 25 mph when landing and people have said they have a nose wheel shimmy when a camera or the right shadow shows it is a main wheel.

When I first had a shimmy I thought it was my front wheel but a GoPro showed it was always the mains. The front never shook.

If it is the front, like others have said make sure the break out force is correct. You could even go one hole tighter and check it. Mine was a few pounds over the spec but loosens over time.
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Last edited by ScottSchmidt : 08-10-2018 at 02:04 PM.
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  #10  
Old 08-11-2018, 02:00 PM
Mousse Mousse is offline
 
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Location: Deux-Montagnes, Qc, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plummit View Post
Pardon me for being obtuse, but how did you "modify" the nut?

-Marc
You make another notch between two existing ones. You only need one as there is no need for the cotter pin to reach both sides of the gear tube. Locking one side is enough. Hope this help.

Michel
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