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  #11  
Old 08-24-2017, 02:14 PM
Bill Boyd's Avatar
Bill Boyd Bill Boyd is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Landing field "12VA"
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Default So it was you ;-)

Good thoughts, Carl.

Are you of the opinion that a single heat muff is more than adequate for the -10 in the coldest conditions seen in the lower 48? I've heard that a few times here as well.

Appreciate all the input from those who've gone before.
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Hop-Along Aerodrome (12VA)
RV-6A - N30YD - flying since '98
RV-10 - N130YD reserved - under construction

donating monthly to the VAF - thanks, Doug
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  #12  
Old 08-24-2017, 02:39 PM
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ppilotmike ppilotmike is offline
 
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Carl,

I'd like to know your answer about the single heat muff and also would like to see pics of your work that allowed the heat dumped when the valves are closed (i.e. channels the heat down and out). Thanks.
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  #13  
Old 08-24-2017, 04:47 PM
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Carl Froehlich Carl Froehlich is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ppilotmike View Post
Carl,

I'd like to know your answer about the single heat muff and also would like to see pics of your work that allowed the heat dumped when the valves are closed (i.e. channels the heat down and out). Thanks.
I recommend doing both heat muffs. They come with the exhaust and the control valve hole is already in the firewall - and you might have colder conditions than I.

On the cabin heat deflector, I used a piece of this: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...lickkey=183585

The Koolmat goes between the cabin heat control valves and the firewall (hold cut out) and extends over the top of the control valves and then drapes down over the front of the valves. This way when the valves are closed the dumped hot air bounces off the Koolmat and down to the cowl exit. Since the Koolmat can be moved you still have access if needed. The Koolmat stays where it is as the engine mount keeps it tucked in.

Carl
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  #14  
Old 08-24-2017, 07:07 PM
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aturner aturner is offline
 
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Location: Clarion, Pennsylvania
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I have just a single heat muff installed, feeding rear outlets. Pennsylvania based. In three years of all season flying, we were cold just once on a flight back home from Florida in winter, but the OAT was -22 F. Under 99% of your flying conditions, one heat muff is more than adequate. If you think about it, that extra heat muff is robbing engine cooling air and dumping heated air it onto the firewall next to the fuel pump. There are so many things wrong with that picture.......
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  #15  
Old 08-24-2017, 08:01 PM
rvdave rvdave is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aturner View Post
I have just a single heat muff installed, feeding rear outlets.
Did you remove one heat muff altogether? I didn't realize that was actually an option? Did you hook up cold air to to the other firewall control valve?
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  #16  
Old 08-24-2017, 08:40 PM
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aturner aturner is offline
 
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Yes, I simply removed the heat shroud from one of the mufflers, so it is cooled by lower cowl air. The other works as normal. Fabricated a steel cover plate to bolt to the firewall to cover the hole where the valve would go, and used fiberfax sandwiched between the plate and the firewall, well sealed around the edges with high temp RTV, as described by others. Seems to have worked out for the first 300 hours.
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Last edited by aturner : 08-24-2017 at 09:47 PM.
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  #17  
Old 08-25-2017, 06:48 AM
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Bill Boyd Bill Boyd is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aturner View Post
I have just a single heat muff installed, feeding rear outlets. Pennsylvania based. In three years of all season flying, we were cold just once on a flight back home from Florida in winter, but the OAT was -22 F. Under 99% of your flying conditions, one heat muff is more than adequate. If you think about it, that extra heat muff is robbing engine cooling air and dumping heated air it onto the firewall next to the fuel pump. There are so many things wrong with that picture.......
So you don't plumb any hot air to come out of the front outlets at all?

I'm wondering if the best compromise, keep-all-options-open scenario wouldn't be to install dual heat muffs plumbed per plans, but with the 3/4" restrictor plates on both baffle-to-muff tubes to reduce standby / wasted airflow when the heat is off.
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Bill Boyd

Hop-Along Aerodrome (12VA)
RV-6A - N30YD - flying since '98
RV-10 - N130YD reserved - under construction

donating monthly to the VAF - thanks, Doug

Last edited by Bill Boyd : 08-25-2017 at 06:56 AM.
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  #18  
Old 08-25-2017, 08:20 AM
rvdave rvdave is offline
 
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How about y'ing off the single scat tube to other controller?
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  #19  
Old 08-25-2017, 11:03 AM
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Bill Boyd Bill Boyd is offline
 
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Default yeah

I was thinking a Tee inside the tunnel to feed front and back from a lone heat muff (weight savings) but a "Y" would work, too.
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Bill Boyd

Hop-Along Aerodrome (12VA)
RV-6A - N30YD - flying since '98
RV-10 - N130YD reserved - under construction

donating monthly to the VAF - thanks, Doug
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  #20  
Old 08-25-2017, 11:56 AM
mciaglia mciaglia is online now
 
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Does anyone make a "Y" for the Scat tubing between the muff and the firewall vents?
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